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Well, mark this in the column of "they built the car around the filter". Pretty much, they built the entire air conditioning system around it. I bought a used 2015 TC Wagon XLT with about 20k miles on it. Despite the dealership's claims, it hadn't been serviced since they got from Hertz. So I did the 20k on it myself today. The cabin air filter is a bit of a mystery - there's one under the driver seat for the rear air. But the main one is behind the dash in the main air handler. It doesn't show up on the dealer's parts computer - unless you search for "odor filter". I looked at their diagram, and the photos from another thread where GBL posted some shop manual pictures. It is between the blower and the evaporator coil from the air conditioner. This is more difficult than it should be, but not terribly hard. 1. Remove the passenger footwell trim aka, fuse box cover. It's the ozite thing above the passenger's feet. Two push pins on either side. 2. Empty and remove glove box. Leave the box closed. The hinge pins slide out. There's a notch you press with a slim screwdriver, this releases the hook on the pin. Slide the pins out and then drop the glove box out. 3. Disconnect battery. 4. Unplug the two lower harness plugs that are in your way and set them out of the way. These have lift-to-release plastic clamps on them. Treat them gently. 5. If you look carefully at the airbox, there is a rectangular cover with a couple of finger clamps towards the bottom. Mine didn't have any screws in it. Appears to be as it left the factory. There is one screw boss at the bottom, presumably if the snaps break. Press the snaps at the lower front and rear of the cover plate and lift it off. 6. The filter has no frame and is soft, so you can just slide it out towards the fuse box. The AC lines above it are in the way as it slides out. 7. Once the old one is out, note the direction of airflow and slowly work the new filter into the slot. There are arrows on the top of the filter showing airflow. It flows from front to back of the vehicle. 8. Slide the cover plate into the upper notch, fasten the snaps. 9. Put the wiring harness plugs back in and snap down the release handles. 10. Install glove box and hing pins. Note the slot and tab to orient the pins. 11. Install the ozite cover and press pins. 12. Reconnect battery and retrain windows and stuff. Enjoy the fresh air. I've been trying to get rid of that, "Hertz rent a car smell". I found the air freshener packets under the seats. But it was still in the A/C system. Changing the filter seems to really help.

Just giving you guys a heads up. Before I bought my 2013 TC a few weeks ago, I had them put it on a lift so I could inspect it underneath. It was clean with no rust, and I am going to get it rust proofed this spring. But I noticed this lift and prior times it had been lifted had caused damage by just where they lifted the truck, and this would very quickly rot out the body unless its addressed. There is a big pinch seam that runs down both sides underneath the TC, just a few inches in from the rocker panels. This seam joins two pieces of body sheet metal and sticks down from the truck by a good bit, like maybe an inch. You can see this seam easily by standing back from either side of the truck ten or twenty feet and looking just underneath the rock panels. In my case the missing paint in spots was obvious. If the lift they are using has arms to support the vehicle, rather than the type where the vehicle wheels rest on the lift, make sure you tell them to adjust the arms so they don't raise it on those pinch seams. I could see not only the paint and I think a caulk broken and pealed off, exposing the metal to rusting and water intrusion between the seam, but also the seam its self in one spot was crushed a little and starting to separate. There were obvious places where this has occurred from prior lifts and the lift it was on when I was inspecting it. Luckily no rust has started yet, but before I have the truck rustproofed this spring I'm going to lightly sand these seams, treat them with a rust arresting product, and then paint them and all the way out to the bottom edge of the rocker panels with a rock hard bedliner material. This should prevent further new damage should somebody lift the vehicle on the pinch seams again because the bedliner will resist cracking or chipping, but I'm going to be darn sure to tell any future service garage to not lift it on those seams. Luckily I do 99% of all work on my vehicles so I don't have to worry about that situation too much. Check yours out to ward off problems. If paint is missing get under there inspect and seal things with a good rust arrestor even if you don't see any rust, and paint it with a chip guard or bedliner. I'm trying to decide if I want to use a rubberized bedliner or a rock hard type, which I hear is less risk at pealing?

When it shakes what are the RPM's, Just a wild guess, The Idle air control is too low and when you have your foot on the brake it is causing the computer to raise the idle. Stepping on the gas will do the same thing, once the revs are good it is happy. You might also check the, Spark plugs if they have not been changed. keep us posted.

Rate this one under harder than it should be, but fairly easy. The filter can be washed. It is just urethane foam, not a paper element. Unless it is torn or damaged, just wash it with dish soap and warm water. Materials and tools: Torx T-20 screwdriver. Motorcraft FP75 filter element* (you can definitely wash these instead of replacing, unless it is damaged) 1. Move driver seat full forward and jack up the seat to the highest level, set the seat back forward. 2. Remove the T-20 screw from the filter housing. 3. The filter housing is supposed to rotate about 20 degrees CCW to come out. However, there are 3 clips around it. Poke your finger down the slot and release the claw inside by pushing it outward. There's one just right of the screw, and one at the very front and one at the driver's door side. I couldn't reach the one on the door side. But by releasing the front one and the one near the screw, I was able to convince it to rotate. 4. Remove the filter housing by wiggling it clear of the seat and under seat air duct. 5. There are three clips that you press gently to release the inner filter housing cage. 6. Replace or wash the filter element and dry it. 7. Install the filter on the inner cage, engaging the bottom edge of the filter in the slot around the bottom of the inner cage. 8. Line up the inner filter cage and snap it back into the filter housing. 9. Line up the filter housing on the blower motor and rotate it 20 degrees to snap it into place. 10. Install the retaining screw.