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Heated Mirrors and Switches


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Hey folks,

 

Got a 2014 Ford Transit Connect 2.5L XLT that unfortunately did not come with heated mirrors

I know there's an OEM fix to put in mirrors but that's at minimum $800 for the parts alone so I'm trying to do something on the cheap

I already have some OEM replacement mirrors with the connectors

I just got in a Mk.3 Rear Defroster switch... I'm wondering what the pin-out for this bad boy is....
I'm trying to find out how the circuitry normally works on these systems.
I wonder if all the power for the mirrors passes through the switch or through a relay elsewhere.

Any and all information is welcomed.

Ford defroster switch 1.jpg

Ford defroster switch 2.jpg

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This may be more involved than you expected. The switch send signals to the body control module (BCM) and the BCM sends power to the defroster and mirrors. The BCM has programming that may need to be configured or activated. I'll look for the wiring diagrams but the configuration may require Forscan (see posts on this forum) and some research or trial and error testing.

 

The good old days of a switch sending power directly to a relay are gone. Everything goes through a module and switches  send network messages (they really aren't switches as we used to know) to the computer modules.

Edited by Don Ridley
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Here is information and wiring diagrams for the heated mirrors. The "door modules" referenced are the driver and passenger door modules DDM, PDM. You need these for heated mirrors. The door modules get a CAN message from the BCM to activate the mirror heaters. Of course the heaters need to be connected to the modules. You know you have door modules if your power windows have the one-touch up/down feature. The modules are located in the top front of the doors.

htd mirror operation.pdf

mirror wiring.pdf

htd mirror 2.pdf

This post shows the DDM.

 

Edited by Don Ridley
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I appreciate all the diagrams an info. I should have guessed they put everything function wise in the BCM, so this might not be as simple as I want if I'm going true OEM route...

I suppose nothing stops me from trying to connect a Time-Delay-Relay to the PINS that the Push-Button interacts with. I just won't have the same function with it.

Have to mull over the data and see how I want to address this.

I have already determined that PIN 1 and PIN 12 are the ones on this switch that close the Normally Open circuit.
Pins 6 and 8 are for the background lighting, but I'm not 100% on which is ground.

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Just be careful with the switch. I don't think it has clean contacts (also called dry contacts). Closing the switch sends a CAN message to the network. If the contacts are ok, you can find time delay relay circuits on Amazon (I have used a couple). They are versatile and easy to program.

 

You may find it difficult to fish wires into the door panels. My TC has a block or plug at the door jam junction with the flexible rubber boot. I can't fish wires through the boot into the door.

 

Wiring and connectors will be the most challenging part of going OEM. Configuration of the BCM (if needed) is easy with Forscan.

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