FTCOne Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 14 minutes ago, Don Ridley said: Will the HID ignite quicky enough function as cornering lamps? If you wiggle the steering back and forth the cornering lights will wink. To better answer your question, the HIDs always attempt to ignite for the same duration of time (a little over a second), no matter which signal seems to be triggering them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Ridley Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 Maybe a resistive load of reasonable size (5-10w) will keep the module driver on. You can then add a separate mechanical relay in parallel to power the HIDs. But I still think there will be functional problems with turning the HIDs on every time you turn or signal to turn. You may have to unplug the ALCM.... assuming that does not create a fault condition. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FTCOne Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 20 minutes ago, Don Ridley said: Maybe a resistive load of reasonable size (5-10w) will keep the module driver on. You can then add a separate mechanical relay in parallel to power the HIDs. But I still think there will be functional problems with turning the HIDs on every time you turn or signal to turn. You may have to unplug the ALCM.... assuming that does not create a fault condition. Good luck! Don, I understand the issue with the turn signal. My plan was to leave the projectors on with the low beams. This should avoid them turning on and off quickly. I will report back on the effectiveness of using load resistors. Also, I am already using a relay harness to avoid issues there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Ridley Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 If the fog lights are PWM, something like this may save you some time... But at a cost. https://gtrlighting.com/gtr-lighting-pwm-interface-module-h11-style-connectors/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FTCOne Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 25 minutes ago, Don Ridley said: If the fog lights are PWM, something like this may save you some time... But at a cost. https://gtrlighting.com/gtr-lighting-pwm-interface-module-h11-style-connectors/ Don, I am guessing these are similar to many of the anti-flicker products out there. They use capacitors to level out the voltage. I think this is a module control issue, so i am going to try the resistors first. I have them prepped with leads, I just need to get back under the car. Maybe tonight, although it is pouring out right now so i may wait a day so I am not dealing with wet panels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FTCOne Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Well, that was all very unsuccessful. I tried load resistors on both fog light connectors, no luck. I tried capacitors ahead of the ballasts, no luck. I tried both together, no luck. I measured the voltage to the relay and it is definitely going between 0V and 12V every time the lights attempt to turn on. For now i put a set of regular H11 bulbs in and buttoned it back up. Time for more research. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FTCOne Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 I just wanted to add that this retrofit is definitely not worth it without fixing the HID issue. I will keep working at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FTCOne Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Ok, so I made my original selection of resistors based on what is typically used by HID companies. But calculating those numbers shows that I am drawing a value less than the bulbs would and I am questioning if this is the problem. For my test, I used a 6ohm load resistor. At 12.6 volts (vehicle not running), this is only ~26.5 watts representing a 55 watt bulb. Even if I add in the coil resistance of 80ohms, this would be a combined load of 5.58 ohms, thus a ~28.5 watt load. Even with the vehicle running and the voltage raised to 14 volts, this parallel resistance leads to a current draw of 35 watts. I am questioning if this is too low. I may try a 4 ohm load resistor, for an effective resistance of 3.81 ohms, drawing ~41.7 watts with the vehicle off and 51.4 watts with the engine running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Ridley Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Would it be easier to connect the HIDs in parallel with the installed H11 bulbs? This will show if the HID ballast is the cause (if the standard bulbs light but the ballast does not). There is a risk of over drawing the module. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FTCOne Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 39 minutes ago, Don Ridley said: Would it be easier to connect the HIDs in parallel with the installed H11 bulbs? This will show if the HID ballast is the cause (if the standard bulbs light but the ballast does not). There is a risk of over drawing the module. Don, This was actually something I was considering. I actually found a thread where someone out the lights in parallel and used enclosures around the bulbs as a solution. At a minimum, i will double check my math, test the current draw of the actual bulb, and then decide. But it will have to wait until later next week. Life is about to get in the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Ridley Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 What is the status of this project? I hope you got it to work, but if not, I have been using some programs to change the computer settings in the TC that may be useful to you. One of the settings is the type of fog lights. Here is my post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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