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Oil change, step by step


nuke
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Probably trivial for most of you, but here's a step-by-step from changing the oil on my 2015 TC Wagon LWB XLT with 2.5L engine. I found Rino Ramps (plastic drive on ramps for low-profile cars) to work just fine. I back into the driveway, then down onto the ramps. The combined slope gives the van a slightly nose high but nearly level position for oil change. I found adequate room underneath on the ramps to do the oil change.

1. Materials needed: 6 qts (5.7 needed) 5w-20 oil and FL910S filter. 15-MM closed end wrench or socket, oil filter wrench, torx t-27 bit.

2. Put vehicle on ramps, apply brakes and chock wheels and raise the hood.

3. The bottom shield is held on by 6 T-27 screws and 2 push-pins.

4. Pop the push pins on the left and right side, but do not remove them yet.

5. Remove the 3 screws along the back of the cover, then the three screws along the front.

6. Carefully tug on the sides with the push pins to get the cover loose, then pull the cover down and forward a few inches. There are two places where it hooks the vehicle frame and pulling forward clears these. Set cover aside.

7. Place suitable draining container under the sump drain, located in the center rear side of the sump. 5w-20 is pretty thin stuff, so it will rooster tail out pretty good. Place your target accordingly.

8. Remove the 15mm drain plug with a socket or closed end wrench. Drain oil. It may go a bit faster if you open the oil fill cap.

9. The filter is easy to reach in the front of the engine. However, it will drain a LOT of oil when you take it off. Make sure your drain is in place before you take it off. Loosen the filter, let it run off, then take it off. There's a lot of oil in the passages that will drain after the filter is off.

10. Install the 15mm drain plug and tighten accordingly.

11. Lubricate the filter with clean engine oil. Wipe the flange surface clean and be sure no remaining gasket is stuck to it. Install and tighten filter 3/4 turn after it contacts the flange.

12. Fill with oil and pressure test.

13. Install bottom cover by sliding onto hooks and inserting the press pins then the 6 screws.

I refilled with a smidge more than 5.5 quarts of oil and it was pretty much spot on. Manual says 5.7qts with filter change. So, thats about right.

This one rates as "easy" with the only complication being the bottom cover. The rear screws are hard to reach.

Edited by nuke
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While you were there you should check the transmission fluid level, you need the car running and the dust cover off to check the fluid. There is no dipstick and no electronic tell tale.

Even a very slow leak will add up with 5000 mile oil changes.

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While you were there you should check the transmission fluid level, you need the car running and the dust cover off to check the fluid. There is no dipstick and no electronic tell tale.

Even a very slow leak will add up with 5000 mile oil changes.

I'd love to know how. I don't have the service literature and there's doodly all in the owner's manual.

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Wow, that's quite a thread on the transmission. I have to admit, I tried to scan all 89 posts and still can't figure out how to check the transmission fluid level.

On the upside, I did check absolutely everything for any signs of a leak. At 20K miles, I'm happy to report that there's not a trace of any kind of fluid, anywhere on the engine or transmission. I did reach up around the half shafts and stuff and they're bone dry. The whole engine is shiny, clean and dry on the bottom side as well as the top.

Is there a step by step to check it?

I had presumed it was one of those deals where you have to remove a plug and see if any dribbles out or not. What's the correct procedure?

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Correct , The plug is forward of the left half-shaft. The engine wants to be hot and Running in park or neutral the oil should just be at the hole. If you pull the bolt out with the engine off , a lot of fluid pours out of the hole. The fill on the Top of the transmission near the left end of the Cam and Valve cover.

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