TC2014

Story Time Owner of a used 2014 Ford Transit Connect 2.5L Gas This morning go to start the vehicle, clearly hearing misfires on the idle. Van runs at reduced power, very shakey, and CEL/Engine Light flashing like crazy. Luckily because it is a Work Vehicle, I had invested in spare parts for standby in case of an emergency. Grabbed those spare parts and took them, had to drive off due to the timeframe. Once I got to a safe spot to do some work, I brought out a scan tool that indicated misfires all over the place and "Open to Ground" on all injectors and the Fuel Pump 8mm Socket to remove the bolts that hold on the Ignition Coils 5/8" Spark Plug Socket (3/8" drive) for removing the Spark Plugs Cylinder #2 Spark Plug was missing the pointed center electrode, all the remaining cylinders had significant corrosion and carbon buildup Cylinder #1 Ignition Coil was cracked and showing internals After replacing these parts, I started the van back up. Clean Idle, no knocks. Cleared errors with my scan tool I still got codes for "Open to Ground" on all the Fuel Injectors and the Fuel Pump, but that has been an issue since I have owned this vehicle. If anyone has insights into this particular issue, let me know what you found. Otherwise, problem resolved. Parts sourced from Rock Auto Ignition Coil: SKP SKUF621T Spark Plugs: NGK 90220 Ruthenium HX High Ignitability *probably overkill on the spark plugs but they were the highest rated on RockAuto and the price was reasonable at ~$12.60 CAD each* Hope this can be helpful to others.

I realize this is an old thread but in case anyone else is looking, here's some pointers: Blinking IMMO light usually indicates a loss of the programming for the transponder chips or possibly a miscommunication between the Immobilizer Coil and the keys themselves. First, check to see you have not lost the chips from your keys. Second, try to connect a scan-tool to read codes. Some of the more advanced tools can tell you if the keys are programmed to the vehicle. Third, check fuses related to the computer and immobilizer system (make sure all your electrical connections are both tight and clean). Finally, remove the shroud cover and see if the connector for the Immobilizer Ring has become disconnected. If you don't have that advanced of a scan tool or require another key, you're best to call a vehicle locksmith and have them run a diagnostic and programming for you.

Yeah, you need the transponder in order to start the vehicle. There are smaller non-button chip-keys you could get but you need a locksmith or the dealership to cut and program it. Running around with 1 working key isn't a great idea either. If you lose your only key, most Fords need 2 keys cut and programmed at minimum to get going

Hi All, Long time runner of a 2014 Ford Transit Connect 2.5L naturally aspirated Gasoline Engine Not long ago, perhaps a year ago (2023) during the winter-time, I had loss of heat unless I was either revving the engine or driving it. Upon an inspection of the coolant reservoir, I denoted it was low on coolant. A quick top-up of less than 800ml or ~20oz of pre-mixed formula and the levels came back up to what the coolant reservoir indicated was a filled system. I was then able to get heat any time the engine was running. Fast forward to this year (2025) and now my coolant is yet again low... I still have the pre-mixed jug of coolant which I did a top up with but I suspect whatever leak I had initially has now degraded to a worse point than what I initially had. I've basically had the same symptoms as last time, coolant indicator on my dash says she's hot but I only get hot air if I have the engine revving higher or I'm driving. I've already done 2 top ups from what I thought I needed although it was parked in such a way that perhaps the angle made my understanding of how much filling I needed to do was incorrect. I do not see any kinds of obvious leaks which would be from the coolant system, at least from what I can tell. Before I go down the path alone to check out the various possibilities, I was wondering if anyone else has run into this issue before and if so what they found the problem was. My mechanic denoted that he has run into this issue in the past and used a "radiator leak stop" with some kind of success but I do not have a lot of faith in leak-stops providing me what I need in terms of a proper fix. His guess was something to do with the Head Gasket, which he claimed would easily be $1K-$2K between parts and labour. Personally, I have seen some head gaskets available online, I'd be more apt to take a crack at doing it myself provided it wasn't too complex. Which leads me to my last query to know if anyone else has done the head gasket repair themselves and how they went about doing so.

Hello @windguy Just wanted to write back and say thank-you for the additional information for those parts. I ended up ordering two of those lights and placing them in the back of my cargo van. Both have been in operation for well over a year and a half. No failures in the light, seems it was constructed better than whatever cheapo stuff was available on the market. Fingers crossed they continue to work for years to come.

Hey Windguy, do you remember the part number for these LED lights that you paid for? I've had a lot of troubles getting myself an LED replacement for the cargo lights in the back... The stock light in the back was an incandescent design. The light was not strong enough for me as I needed a lot of light in the back, I use my van for service work and it was just too weak for seeing a lot when I initially pull the van doors open. I've tried several versions of drop-in LED bulb replacements, all of them have eventually failed. It's like the boards or bulbs are made too cheaply to be able to handle whatever the van is putting out voltage/amperage wise. Eventually all of the bulbs I put in would fail within a 4 month period and start blinking like crazy. The bulbs would also get incredibly hot for some reason too. I've used these bulbs in other vehicles before and they never got that hot. My last solution to try a workaround, I got an LED board to fit the plastic housing, and hot glued a small 12v DC PC fan on the back of the board. It's supposed to be a "whisper quiet" fan but it ain't. The fan makes a vibration sound that is really loud but at least my boards never got cooked after I did that solution. After seeing your post, it would seem that this is the proper kind of LED unit to have in my van and the large heat sink suggests that Ford knows that heat was an issue for some reason. So if you know the part number, I will order it from Ford. Thanks so much for the posting and all the photos btw.

I appreciate all the diagrams an info. I should have guessed they put everything function wise in the BCM, so this might not be as simple as I want if I'm going true OEM route... I suppose nothing stops me from trying to connect a Time-Delay-Relay to the PINS that the Push-Button interacts with. I just won't have the same function with it. Have to mull over the data and see how I want to address this. I have already determined that PIN 1 and PIN 12 are the ones on this switch that close the Normally Open circuit. Pins 6 and 8 are for the background lighting, but I'm not 100% on which is ground.

Hey folks, Got a 2014 Ford Transit Connect 2.5L XLT that unfortunately did not come with heated mirrors I know there's an OEM fix to put in mirrors but that's at minimum $800 for the parts alone so I'm trying to do something on the cheap I already have some OEM replacement mirrors with the connectors I just got in a Mk.3 Rear Defroster switch... I'm wondering what the pin-out for this bad boy is.... I'm trying to find out how the circuitry normally works on these systems. I wonder if all the power for the mirrors passes through the switch or through a relay elsewhere. Any and all information is welcomed.

On my 2014 Connect, I used the Fiesta labeled red wire for Accessory Power

If you want to replace them with something that provides more light, I found these worked pretty good. https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32600514538.html?gatewayAdapt=Pc2Msite&spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.105b4c4dVRHJRP https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9CNIZxqzqMA

There are aftermarket solutions that offer a Flip-Key setups for your type of van. You're best to source one from a proper vehicle locksmith as they will provide a proper working unit and program it as well. There's all sorts of horror stories from folks buying aftermarket keys just to find out they have a defect or won't program in.

Replacement of the engine, PCM, TCM or BCM usually requires the components to be relearned with a PCM replacement protocol. With an advanced scanner you should be able to see if the keys are registered to start the engine. Some have the ability to do the replacement protocol but definitely do your research before you start anything. If you do the PCM replacement protocol, you will need 4 keys at minimum to get everything set. Transit Connects always need 4 keys in memory. If you don't have all 4, you might want to contact a local vehicle locksmith to do the work

As far as trying to swap in a newer model radio, I have no idea if that would work or not. You would have to cross-reference if the wiring is the same. I would assume if there isn't too much of a change from the wiring and the design of the radio itself, I wouldn't see why not. If you end up doing that swap, and you are successful, give us some photos and a blurb. I'd be curious to know if it would work.

Gentlemen, I thank you for your patience. I had forgotten to check back and update you all on what I discovered. Let me get around to answering all the questions: Firstly - Yes, I was able to successfully place an aftermarket radio into my 2014 Transit Connect. Due to the price and options of the aftermarket radio I picked up, this is why I had to do my own wiring. The radio is some kinda knockoff Chinese manufacturer that has a lot of features I was looking for: GPS, Bluetooth connectivity, Built-in Microphone, Auxillary 3.5mm jack, even a CD/DVD player, as well as physical buttons and a dial for controls. Sadly it isn't perfect. There's ton's of usability issues like the radio might toggle to FM radio if I press the Bluetooth input button, and the GPS is a frustrating joke, not to mention it is impossible to set the time on it but given the price I've just had to live with it. I desperately needed Bluetooth over everything else so at least I got that going for me, which was nice. Otherwise I would not recommend it. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0792V5KZN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Now getting to the crux of the issue at hand - the dreaded ACCESSORY wire we need for all of our aftermarket radios to work. I ended up stumbling upon the Metra 70-5524 for the Ford Fiesta 2011-(and up) from Amazon https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00ANAHEQU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 That harness has the proper position on the RED wire which connects with the OEM Ford ACM Harness ACCESSORY wire so the radio will turn on when the IGNITION has been turned to either ACCESSORY or ON. I did not make note at the time of what PIN position the read wire was on in comparison to the other wiring harness I had used before. I know the PINs can be re-arranged if you have the correct pick tool if you have the patience for that

Much thanks, I will take some time to peruse the data and see what I can get set up for myself. I'm hoping a direct connection of the wires to the harness will give me a fully functioning aftermarket stereo. I will update when I have any progress.