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Well... Moveras had that replacement valve body sent to their HQ and not my mechanic. They finally had it delivered to my mechanic after a full week. Still didn't fix issues, per mechanic. Their only possible solution was to provide an entirely diff reman trans (to be delivered in 1-2 weeks). They'd see if they could cover the new installation cost at their dictated labor rate, but even then I'd be out the current $1700 labor/parts costs to my mechanic. So I'm saying fuck it and returning the defective product entirely to AutoZone/Moveras. Argued back and forth with both AZ/Moveras and they say all this falls under warranty, not customer service. Crazy definition of warranty, and I disagree (biigg understatement). Cherry on top - warranty is voided when I return it. Upon further inspection, warranty is capped $350 TOTAL. So suffice to say warranty is bullshit. SOOO...wish I went with mechanic's rebuild from the beginning. It's basically same cost as reman trans and install, and would have gotten it back in 3-5 days instead of being without Van since 5/17. Fun times. For those looking, avoid Moveras. And be very wary of AutoZone/other warranties.

Update: fuck moveras transmission. I decided to bite the bullet and purchased a remanufactured transmisson from Moveras via AutoZone. There weren't a lot of choices and it was this at $2200 after shipping and taxes OR the OEM version at 1.5 that cost. Had it sent to trans specialist near me. Finally delivered after issues with shipping (they had wrong tracking numbers associated). Got a call from mechanic on morning I was supposed to pick it up....bad news. Van not going into 5th, throwing errors. He also mentioned looks like they painted over parts quickly and not professionally. Had to connect mechanic with support ppl at Moveras. They're now supposed to send out a new valve body, hoping that will fix issue. Nottt tooo promising. Came witrh 3 yr parts/labor warranty, but looks like there's a cap at $50/hr for labor. If anyone ever is looking to invest in reman transmission, do not use Moveras. I had a horrible feeling this investment is going to haunt me and essentially cripple my van.

I'm having an intermittent issue on my 2010 that seems common. Waiting on scan tool to be delivered and will update on any error codes I can find, but wanted to reach out here in case someone can help resolve. Just the driver side sliding door is affected. Passenger has never been an issue. It locks fine, but about 50% of the time it doesn't unlock. Won't engage from inside latch, either. Funny thing is it has started working randomly after being inactive. It's gone back and forth from functioning to not, and I'm trying to figure out if there's something I can do myself to correct it. From the sounds of it, I may be looking at an actuator failing? Trying to figure out if it's something I can fix myself, given I have a rudimentary understanding with these things. P.S. If there's any way to manually lock the vehicle using the mechanism on the driver side door and close it? It seems to be a preventative measure, but every time I lock it using the door lever and close the door, it auto unlocks. Not end of the world...just would be nice to be able to lick vehicle without key fob.

Ended up doing it myself. Mechanic estimated $250 for labor so I did fuck it and learned something in the process. Took most of the day (rather than a few hrs) and covered in coolant (that drain plug doesn't unscrew all the way so it splashed coolant everywhere), but I'd say it was worth it. In midst of trying to bleed new coolant of air, I noticed my fans weren't coming on. After driving for a few hrs today, I still don't think they're turning on. Temp has risen to normal levels throughout and coolant level of stable, but got me thinking maybe fans not working. Was originally thinking fans but turning on just meant they weren't needed yet, but part of me thinks fans not running could have contributed to cracked radiator in first place. I've never seen my temp to worrying levels, but still...after all the effort of replacing radiator, think I'll still need tech to check wires and insure electrical is working correctly to fans.

In the midst of a remanufactured trans purchase, I realized my radiator has a leak. In an effort to start saving $$$ as I just sunk a lot into the trans, I'm gonna try to replace the radiator myself. Got one for under $100 online and this will be my first real foray into working under a car's hood. @BSUPC any tips/surprises to share? I'm gonna go off that Focus video mostly but worried I might have to take off more hardware/ in order to access everything. Any help is appreciated. thanks.

Update in case anyone is following... Looking like it's gonna be best to buy reman trans and have a good transmission specialist (who's worked on Ford trans before) perform the labor. Here's where I am now: Transmission Street Smart Transmission Autozone Advance Auto Parts Dealer Retail 4F27E 1440 (told 4F27E for Focus and others smaller cars. (Can'r/won't sell to me with a TC) 1630 (same as Street Smart. 1749 (same.) 2637 Long story short I'm being told not all 4F27E are the same. The mechanic said it might be different gear ratios, but he can't be sure. But multiple cust service reps I talked to asked for my VIN and then told me the options I was looking at (as linked by https://www.transmissionrepaircostguide.com/4f27e/) do not work with the Transit Connect. Only in-stock options were on AutoZone: So it's either that $1950 option, orrrrr this: https://spprecision.com/products/4f27e-transmission-sale.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw-r71BRDuARIsAB7i_QOyF2oz0wVFCg6lM7PAZzn_vqmGKyrjR2G7GsFm2ZrayIsEJbzi-iAaAp38EALw_wcB Which seems kinda sketchy and may prob be just the same problems with other Focus-specific type transmissions. ANyone have a reason why I shouldn't but the bullet and pay and extra $5-600 for the approved AutoZone reman transmission. Might come out to almost $800 total since they make you do the work as far as shipping and paying for Core return... @G B L were you going out of your way to link me that website's recommendations, or do you know something about these transmissions I don't? Thanks either way...

thanks all - this is what I was looking for! Think my plan will be to find mechanic who's willing to accept a remanufactured transmission. @G B L Any chance there's a different transmission type for the 2010? I've seen differing info on different sites about different types of transmissions between 2010 and 2011. The AutoZone website stated the linked transmission does NOT fit a 2010 TC. Guessing that's just the Focus trans, correct? Seems like they're somewhat compatible but would need a good mechanic to ensure it's setup correctly. Wondering if there's something I'm missing since the site is saying it won't fit my van... @Fifty150 willing to spend @3k on remanufactured trans + installation. Van looks good and runs well otherwise with 115k, and I've built out a campervan setup I enjoy. Would really be looking to get another 3-5 years out of it before I sell for what I can get for it. Does anyone have any mechanic recommendations for transmission install in/around Woodland Hills area? Gaulpin Ford is prb gonna jack up costs out of my range

Well this van was bought used via CL, so there's no warranty so speak of. Anyone have experience with a rebuild price? I'm thinking remanufactured at the factory (without a warranty) is pretty much out of my budget. Also open to any mechanics in SoCal/Los Angeles area if you have any recommendations...

I've noticed my 2010 XLT was always overworked at highway speeds (especially when climbing) after purchasing it 2nd hand in 2017. Purchased at 100k. Knew the history but thought I could just deal with a weaker engine. But it started getting caught in low gear/high RPM on high speed climbs. Got trans fluid flushed completely and new fluid right before a surf trip (to Baja of all places) where it reallly started being a problem. Would inevitably fail to shift on highway climbs and get stuck in high rev scenario. Then, after levling out or going downhill, it'd fail to downshift and stay at super high rpm. Weirdly enough it'd correct itself after turning car off/on, only for it to happen again. Lots of roadside stops. That trip was much more nerve-wracking than I wanted. Anyways...was tripping an error code p0741 (tongue converter clutch circuit). From my readings, it sounds like it could be a solenoid. I guess the question is: do I try to pick and choose transmission repairs at this point or do I find a mechanic I trust and have them perform a rebuild? And if rebuilding a trans on 2010, what's an acceptable price? I'm in SoCal and have access to trustworthy mechanic (willing to take chances rather than spend $$$ at dealer). Thanks...and if anyone has experience with p0741 error, please speak up.