Almo

Yeah I had the sensor out when I replaced the bearing and half shaft. It came out nicely, pretty happy I didnt damage it but you never know. I will replace it first and go from there. I've got the new hub and wheel bearing coming too (hub bearing surface was worn) so I get to do this all over again LOl. But I'm mobile again which is main thing. I was wondering about the clearance gap between the sensor and ABS ring on the bearing as one of the other members mentioned. Theres not much you can adjust there though if the bearing is located fully in the housing so that the circlip can be fitted and then the sensor goes through a fixed hole in the knuckle so.... There is the possibility of dimension discrepancy between different bearing manufacturers though. The other thing that baffles my inquiring mind is how come come there are no lines /slots/holes on the ABS ring for the sensor to pick up off?

Thanks Guys, I just used my multimeter and got no ohms resistance on the LH side then tried the RH side and got 706 ohms so it would appear the LH sensor is stuffed despite looking OK on visual inspection. Only 13 quid from transitparts on Ebay so no huge expense to replace first. Cheers for the info on the scan tool, will def look into that. The worst thing for me is having to wait on the parts to get here from the UK but its usually only a week if you have a good run.

Thanks for the reply, yep the tone ring is on the correct (inward/engine) side. I'm pretty happy I didnt damage the ring when I slipped the drive shaft through but it is possible, hard to see in there. An auto electrical friend said I could test the sensor by unplugging it (anyone know where the plug is?) and do a resistance test and see if it matches the drivers side one. I was careful with it and had it tied back out the way. I've just ordered a new hub and another bearing off transitspares on Ebay as the hub/drivingflange has half the bearing surface worn where the bearing inner race contacts. So this time I will be super careful on install. I'm definitely getting to know my van!

Hi guys, I installed a new LH front wheel bearing yst and tonite when i test drove it the ABS light stayed on. It's on at standstill with the engine running (I think this is normal yeah?) then it goes off momentarily once you start rolling but comes back on a good second later and stays on. I'm thinking it's probably to do with the ABS reluctor ring on the new bearing not being 100% compatible. Yes, i put the bearing in the right way round with the black magnetic ring to the inside and was careful replacing the sensor in its hole after cleaning the tip. The bearing wasn't an original ford one. I got it off ebay i think it is a brand called key parts prob made in China. Any thoughts?

Today I replaced the LH front wheel bearing, tie rod end, half shaft and seal where it enters the transmission. The seal was leaking so had to be done and I thought while i have the half shaft out I might replace it (only 55 quid) as it had wear on the inner CV joint and I wondered if perhaps this was part of the clunking on/off the gas. Unfortunately I'm waiting on some gear box oil from my usual supplier so wont be able to test drive until tomorrow. Fingers crossed for a result. What I did want to mention was that I discovered the driving flange is worn on the inner half of the 39mm diameter bearing surface that the inner races of the bearing locates on. So one half of the old bearing was spinning/fretting and has worn it down to 38.75mm. I've had to fill the gap with bearing retainer for now as I dont have time to get a new driving flange from the UK before I leave on my trip. Hmmmm...

I went with 200ft/lb and it still spins so cant be too tight!

Thank you for that. The only other reference I could find was this part supplier who lists it as 207ft/lb. Big difference! https://www.go-parts.com/ps-product.php?product=7530257&name=2010 Ford Transit Connect Wheel Bearing - Front MPA&year=2010&make=Ford&model=Transit Connect&parttype=Wheel Bearing&sku=2F7B968

As above required please. I did a search on here but couldnt find anything. Fitting new front wheel bearing and half shaft tomorrow and I cant find it listed in my Haynes manual. Thanks in advance.

Thanks, I'm just sorting out an order at the mo with an outfit (carpartsinmotion) and I'm getting a wheel bearing with the circlip and nut plus 2x tie rod ends and 2 x tie rods as the threads and nuts on the end of them are rounded off and the tyre guy had to heat the crap out one of them to un-seize it recently. The water pump has been done. and the serpentine belt tensioner and idler roller, so I'm guessing these are all common wear items? Luckily the previous owner was mechanically inclined and recorded everything he did. Going to remove LH brake caliper this week and tie it out the way with a wooden wedge in there to hold pads apart and then go for a drive. The offending noise sounds so much like something rubbing on disc pads it's annoying me and need to eliminate that. Have also noticed now that putting the clutch in is not always an instant noise stopper. Did 100 miles on the wkd with no dramas and I've got a 200 mile trip this weekend to a racing event. Feeling less concerned than I was.

Saga continues... I had the van at work today and we put it over the pit. It appears the play that i thought was the wheel bearing was actually a worn tie rod end pin. First I checked the wheel bearing hub nut was torqued correctly and latterly the tie rod nut. Both are good. But the worn tie rod does not explain the noise. So we put it up on axle stands and ran it up in the workshop but it wouldn't do it with out load on. Tried turning the steering, no noise. So it's obviously not something major that is going to let go and strand me in the next 50 miles but still disconcerting. My boss wondered if it was the half way bearing set up that supports the RH drive shaft on it's way to the hub. The LH side doesn't have this as the diff is offset. I wasnt too surprised there was no play in the bearing as it doesn't sound like a worn bearing, its too intermittent, more like something coming around and catching / rubbing at a certain spot. Bit like a stone in stuck in a brake rotor. (but goes away when you push the clutch in.) Any thoughts gratefully received as usual. Just incase anyone is wondering, I'm not one of those people who hears noises all the time Lol. I'm an engineering machinist so I know a bit about stuff but not everything.

Thanks Al, I've been doing some googling tonite and have the SKF and FAG part numbers for the correct wheel bearing kits they sell.

Nah David it appears to be a sealed bearing. OK, so the last owner got his bearing off ebay but I dont have the time to wait as this is my only vehicle and I need it for the wkd to transport my motorcycle to an event. I rang my local Ford dealer but he said they cant get bearings for the Transit connects as they are not sold here. Annoying as they possibly will have the bearing there but listed as a Mondeo or Focus bearing or some other Ford model that is compatible. Does anyone know if any Ford cars or commercials share the same front wheel bearing? Anyways I found a general automotive parts dealer who (apparently) has the whole hub assembly with the bearing in it for about 50 quid converted. I will have it tomorrow but I'm a bit wary as to whether it is the correct part as I cant think why they would have this hub sitting on the shelf here. Will remain positive meanwhile! Thanks for your replies guys.

Thanks guys, I've just been out and put a trolley jack under the front end. Yep, wheel bearing (phew!) oddly it is the LH one which he says he has replaced. Wondering if he used a quality bearing as he said he got it off ebay. If anyone has the bearing number for a 2007 model that would be appreciated as I can get one ordered through my ford dealer. Hope they have them , it's an import model here.

Just heard from previous owner and he thinks it may be the RH front wheel bearing as he has done the left one. It sounds way worse than a bearing but I hope he is correct. It would explain the change in noise when wheel turned too. Hmmm... will check it out tomorrow when its light again.

Hi guys, 6 months into my transit connect ownership it appears I have an issue. It's a 2007 model T230L with manual transmission. On the weekend it started making a noticeable rubbing/chuffing noise when I was driving around town that increased in frequency as vehicle speed increased, not revs. Initially I thought some thing was rubbing underneath the van but then I depressed the clutch pedal and it went away instantly - uh oh, problem Houston! It's very rhythmic and becomes quite slow as you slow down, almost goes away or gets masked at speed. Most noticeable when sitting at constant revs, lessens under load like acceleration or deceleration. I had my boss who is a diesel mechanic have a drive toady and he was a bit miffed. And just to confuse things it seemed to change pitch or even go away altogether when we added G forces by wrenching on the steering wheel. He wondered if it was related to the clutch slave cylinder which I see is located inside the tranny. Great! I so hope it is not related to this. My boss reckons it sounds more like a rubber part noise than a metallic noise?? It's real noticeable, not a 'is that a noise?' thing I'm open to any help I can get and would be grateful. Feel free to ask for any more detail. Thanks, Al

Thanks for all the replies guys. I now know I have 50miles/80km at least to get myself to a service station. Not that I plan on pushing it. I'm pretty much a '1/4 tank left, time to fill up' guy. Interesting seeing pictures of your dash, my digital display is is just a little postage stamp one that shows odo, trip and the time. You must have newer models.

Recently I needed some technical info about my 230 connect that I couldnt find on the net anywhere (my skills are average!) so I posted on here and got no replies. I was then wondering what my next move was as I'm in New Zealand and this vehicle is an import here. So I fired off a heap of emails to random Ford dealers in the UK targeting ones specialising in commercial sales. Keith McGrath the Assistant Service Manager at Imperial Commercials, Grimsby was the only person who bothered to reply and asked for a bit more info like the VIN number ( I shoulda been onto that) Long story short he scanned the wiring diagrams I required for two different options and e-mailed them to me. I was able to print them off at my end and present them to my auto electrician who had the job done in no time with the right info. And this was mid December when everyone is busy leading up to xmas and there was no money in it for them, just purely good will towards a Ford owner. If I lived nearer I would have dropped round a box of beer

Thanks chap, that's quite a generous amount. Interestingly I only put 45.3 liters in it when i got to the servo so I assumed it is a 50 liter tank but the manual tells me it's 60.

I must have a different model to you. Only thing on the steering wheel of my 2007 model is the horn Lol.

Hi Guys, got a new owner question here: Just wondering how many miles you can go on the open road after the low fuel light comes on before you start sucking air into the system? Recently I got a bit caught out and I drove for 20 miles at 60mph with the fuel light on (and sweaty palms) before I got to a servo. Thanks in advance for any responses. Ps. Loving the van so far

Can anyone help me with this? My local auto electrician needs it for a job he is doing on my 2007 connect. He had a search on the internet but couldn't find anything so I said I would ask on here. Cheers.

Hi Guys, We have to purchase what we call 'diesel miles' in my country. It's basically a government tax so it's very common for owners of diesel vehicles to have a switch fitted so that they can reduce their mileage and cost of purchasing diesel miles. I've not long bought my first diesel vehicle a 2007 T230 connect and am keen to get a switch fitted. Just wondering if anyone on here has done this and can provide info on where they tapped into the signal which comes from the transmission I guess? A friend of mine more knowledgeable than myself thought tapping into the ABS module would be the best bet?