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DapperVan: I've got the exact same rattle. I haven't been able to figure it out either.

Many thanks KD

I unplugged it when I was poking around. I took today off to work on the project. Did anyone remove the rear a/c system that is underneath the second row? I am not sure if that is something I should try to remove to gain access to the floor beneath. Please advise.

I think you are right! Found the following web page which showed me what the hose would look like. https://ford.oemdtc.com/472/water-leak-into-the-driver-andor-passenger-side-footwell-2014-ford-transit-connect The water line matches the height of the tube. I am about to borrow my brother's compressor to blow it out. I hope that is the right way to go about it. Please let me know if there is anything else I should be doing. My picture is from the passenger side foot well.

I have the carpet completely out. I don't want to try and move the firewall insulation, so I am going to lift it and put some of the sound damping tiles behind it on the drivers side. The firewall insulation on my passenger side is soaking wet about 8 inches up the firewall so I am not sure what if anything I will try to do on this side. Any ideas on where the water might be coming from? 2014 ford transit connect leak front passenger firewall water moisture below carpet

Don, Thank you for the peace of mind. I was dreading the ceiling; so now, I just won't! I am not even going to full with the audio this weekend other than running wires. Sticking with factory speaker wires. Current State of Install: I have my battery all the way out. I found the knockout on the driver's side firewall. All the seats are out except the front passenger. The third row floor and walls to the window are exposed (haven't removed c-pillars yet). I have put some Kilmat on the rear tire wells and its is lunch time.

Thanks guys! My back went out on the 17th but I feel better so I started the project today. I took the third and middle row seats out. I am trying to come up with a plan of attack and make sure I don't botch anything. Plan is to: Sound Proof doors floor maybe the ceiling (probably not this weekend unless it involves taking the seats out again) Install LCI7 converter Run Wire for 4 channel speaker amp (dual amp kit for sub-woofer addition later) Run new speaker wire to front and rear doors Install new components in the front doors Install new coaxiasl in the rear doors I have read a lot of the threads on here in preparation, but it seems prudent to get a little feedback just in case I am off. Remove all the seats, carpet and trim necessary to sound proof floor and doors. Remove old speakers. Sound proof floor, doors and more if I have material. (Pillars/walls/rear liftgate) Run Amp Wire Kit to install amp under the rear passenger seat or passenger front seat (use 60 amp glow plug connection) need to find place to ground Install LCI7( hope to leave in the dash near the radio -read where one guy put it in storage under front passenger seat) and run RCA's to amp location (running sub RCA at same time) keep the RCA's separate from all power cables Run new speaker wire to front and rear doors from amp (no idea how to get wire into rear door factory wire tube thing) Install speakers Put it all back together I am going to disconnect the negative battery terminal and wait 30 mins before removing the front seats so I do not blow the air bags. Questions: Floor - Do I need to remove the trim around the floor and the door seals/gaskets? Ceiling- I have a moon roof. Do I want to add sound proofing to the ceiling? Is it risky to access with the automatic sunshade? Rear Doors- Do I have the necessary access to sound proof by removing the door panel or does the door need to come off? Material: Kilmat: 50 mil and 80 mil. Noico Green 170 mil sound insulation. I have a roller for applying material and denatured alcohol to prep metal. I plan to work a few hours in the morning and a few hours in the evening Saturday and Sunday. I am not sure I will finish it this weekend. I have an old truck I can take to work but it would be great to get it done by Sunday night. Very excited.

Zal, Do you remember how many sq ft of B-quiet you used? My tc has a sunroof. Would that make roof access more difficult?

Don & Zal, Thank you! Very informative. I made the first part of my order. I went with the LC7I for my converter. The Focal brand speakers were on sale so I decided to give them a try - also bought the 4 ch Focal amp because it was recommended by the rep. ( Wish I knew you like Morel - I looked at those). So, plan is to use what y'all shared and get the wires, door speakers and amp installed. I went with a two channel amp wiring kit so I only have to run wires once. I am not sure how that will work with the high powered junction box. I am in new territory, but I like it. I am going to spend some more time looking at your posts and planning. I think Zal put his converter under the passenger seat. I am curious where ya'll put the amps (may be in your posts). As to sound deadening- are there any specific trouble spots in the tc I could hit with $150 of material and make a difference? Most of my budget is aimed at the equipment right now- but I would delay the sub if it helps a lot on the interstate. Cheers

I am going to upgrade my sound system soon. Keeping the factory stereo. I am looking for some feedback from people that know better. line out converter or amp with speaker level inputs? Crutchfield says a lot of 6.5 speakers will not fit - is that accurate? 5 channel amp or mono and 4 channel? Looking forward to hearing from the community.

I bought a 2014 TC and am joining the community. I've been mostly reading about audio upgrades. I am looking to add an amp and aftermarket speakers. A certain online retailer is telling me that a lot of the 6.5 speakers don't fit- I wanted to see if anyone has used any of those speakers. I will look for the right section to post. I have done a decent amount of looking and haven't found the information I am looking for yet. Cheers