jimCognito

My 2010 started making the same noise 4 days after my warranty expired. The dealer quoted me a similar price to replace the mechanism. I've learned to live with the noise. Too many other costly issues with brakes, wheel bearings & shocks. It is handy in a parking lot to scare people who park too close.

Mystery solved !!! I found the part after my first dealer oil change & right after they replaced the recalled headliner pins. When I asked the dealer where it goes they were clueless. Thanks Wow it just took me 30 minutes to find my container of spare TC parts. I glued the rubber piece to the rear striker plate. It is just an interior cover. It serves no mechanical function.

My 2010 XLT with 80k miles just cost me $ 700 to replace a fused wheel bearing & new hub. I appreciate the feed back in these forums. jimINtransit. ps/ Driver side door lock mechanism started making horrible buzzing noise 4 days after my 3 year warranty period ended.

Well back in September I finally got around to opening up the center consul to expose the wiring connections to the cigarette lighter & power port. All wires and connectors are in good condition. All fuses under the dash are fine. Yet still limited voltage @ lighter & nothing from the power port. Is it possible there is another fuse under the hood that is giving me this problem ? 2 new problems! 1) The automatic door release on drivers side makes a loud buzzing noise every time it unlocks. Dealer wants $ 230.00 just for the part. 2) I've had marginal radio reception for the last 2 months. Now I know why. As I was brushing snow off the roof & windshield this morning the whole antenna & base cover came off. Has any one replaced the base ? Looks like I'll be yanking out the headliner to make that repair.

I have the same problem.Front cigar lighter & power port are not showing any voltage. I too have checked & replaced all related fuses . The rear power port shows a stead 14.6 volts. I suspect a bad ground connection. Thanks to this site I found some guidance on removing the center console. I'll let you know what I find. Funny thing is that these both worked fine for the first 2.5 years until the dealer replaced a faulty fan speed switch.

djcaswei & others I had a similar experience in a parking garage 6 months after I purchased my TRANSIT in 2010. I was totally aware of the 6' 8" height & had been in the same garage 2 weeks earlier but this time there was an internal fire door that caught & sheared off the upper break light. For 2 .5 years I have avoided the headliner removal & light replacement by adapting my self -designed low profile UNISTRUT roof rails to rest on top of the light fixture plus a little 3M Windo-Weld to seal out the water. It has performed flawlessly. But now I am ready to tackle a permanent repair/modification. I have a Black Perl TRANSIT that is always parked outside it gets really hot from good old solar energy. I am planning on installing a solar powered circular ventilator in the same location as the brake light to help dump the excess heat. Since I have to make a 3" hole to accomodate the ventilator I have already fabricated an EPDM gasket to counter act the roof dimples. But I still want a brake light up there ! Has anyone out there done something similar ? Does anyone have a recommendation for after-market roof mounted light bars ?