gossipninja

My car had a hole there and I always wondered what it was. Thanks!

Turns out the dealer lied when I asked it it was ever business or fleet owned as I doubt a civilian would add this.

Thanks. I sort of assumed that was the purpose.

Wonder if it is worth tracking one down?

I have a 2014 lwb wagon.

Been wondering this for years and figured I'd give up am ask, what ate these molded hooks actually meant for?

I've seen em sold on ebay from the UK, typically they are about $150  but the shipping to the US is another $150

I am keeping an eye out for the flexible "stick on" spoilers to see if I can find something that will work to fill the gap between the van and the barn doors, as those jambs get dirty.

Hit a deep pothole in a parking lot at about 10mph a few months ago and ever since then the drivers pedal has felt different, I can feel the road thru the pedal, lots of vibration. Additionally I hear more clunks when hitting bumps in the road.

Mechanic says it's fine and suspension is good.

Have done tie rods, alignment, wheel balance, resonator, motor mounts, front brakes and no change.

Kinda at my wits end as this pedal feel really bothers me

I am assuming you tapped into the headlight assembly wiring block, did you jump the "white" light off the low beam . parking light or other?

I got a set of these and haven't installed them as I wasn't sure if I want white "always on" with acc power or only when parking lamps are on.

the PAD isn't a switch, just an indicator. In USA their isn't a manual switch to disable the passenger airbag as it is handled via an occupancy/weight sensor in the seat.

Curious what happens if the system doesn't "see" one of them. 
I'd imagine it might throw an airbag error, I will likely have to do some testing with leads

I have this dumb idea to use a Focus defrost/PAD switch in my 2014 connect as it is the same size/plug type (focus has more pins). I hate the navigation style one and with my aftermarket dash kit has a lame one that is far too wide which will affect my big screen radio install (I'm modifying a focus dash kit, it's a whole other thing)

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I'm not even worried about HOW I am going to pin this ( in theory splice wires off existing front control interface module plug and add pins to the defrost button harness)

The defrost switch/indicator pins are the same on both switches and I don't have a heated front windshield which normally occupies the location of the focus PAD (boy i wish i did tho)

But the PAD pinout of the switch (for the focus) has 2 extra pins: fuse 86 and a deactivate+(meaning airbag-off) whereas the transit connect uses 3 pins on its PAD :fuse 86, deactivate + ( airbag off), and deactive - (airbag on)

I've attached a focus vs transit wiring diagram, and a more full transit wiring diagram.

It appears power comes in on fuse 86 pin, and then through either "deactivate +" or "deactivate -" on the transit and then go to the restraint module.

On the focus PAD I ran 12v to act as fuse 86 to its respective pin and connected "deactivate +"  to ground and the PAD lit up as expected. 

Since this switch only has a "deactivate +" what are the ramifications of not having "deactivate -" connected?

 

oh and i think you can use forscan to set the clock, but not positive.

On 8/29/2022 at 2:35 PM, EmoMorales said:

I installed a aftermarket head unit in my 2014  van and of course I can’t change the clock on the small screen. Is there a work around for this? I’m leaning towards just covering the top bar of it with black tape.

You have to hook the old keypad up (not sure if you need the disk player connected) to control that screen. If your dashkit has an "airbag" light, that is the connection the keypad uses. (at least for single disk, with 4.3 screen radio - no sync)

Some android head units with canbus can emulate those buttons, but I don't know as with my android head unit i was able to remove the 4.3. screen completely. 

I just wanted to chime in that this is pretty cool.

I've been wanting to get a "birds eye" system for my '14 but know i'm too lazy at the moment to wire it.

Had some bad road noise after a tire repair and after just had to get 4 new tires it turns out I had a bad wheel bearing and that has been solved but the "clunking" heard, which was thought to also be a bearing symptom but is still present.

GIven I have noticed a "clunk" when going from park to drive in the past, I figure my motor mounts are shot and was hoping for some insight into good brands since I've seen 3 piece kits for $60-$300 and don't want junk, but also don't want to spend too much (this week has already been expensive).

I was leaning towards this kit if anyone has any insight - https://www.amazon.com/ADVANCE-IGNITION-Transmission-Compatible-Transit/dp/B08HQZS8S4/ref=sr_1_2?qid=1658621271&s=automotive&sr=1-2&vehicle=2014-54-16130-656--40-6-5-19247--1-1-2964-333-4&vehicleName=2014+Ford+Transit+Connect#customerReviews 

On 3/26/2022 at 2:12 PM, bostintransit said:

Everything is looking good, but now I want to see if I can integrate the stock backup camera into the new head unit, because I can't reliably get the little screen to show the back-up view now.

For backup camera retention there is 
Axxess AXSWCH-FD1 Plug-N-Play SWC and Back-Up Camera Retention Harness Best buy usually has it for around $10-13

But I will warn, on my 2014 lwb wagon with single disk/4inch screen the image it gives is garbage, very grainy, I had to jack the brightness and contrast of my aftermarket unit to the max to be even remotely viewable and I tried 2 of them. I called the company and they said they never actually tested on a '14 and just assumed it would work since it does for 15-18. I t works fine on the factory screen which granted is so small you wouldn't notice some grain.

I already have a new AHD camera cable ran from the rear door to the dash, I just have to get off my butt and replace the factory cam with the new camera (and even that is a stop gap until I get stupid enough to buy/install one of those birds eye camera systems)

I didn't try anything to ground 

Looking at the acm diagram and fcdim pinout this should work barring forscan changes or something with the 2 listing for pin 10.

also I did try to add a pin 7 on the fcdim going to pin 5 on steering and connect the pin 10 (wt-gn) i had to pin 6 and it did not work (granted the connections were temporary and possibly not making good contact) and it the radio didn't respond.

Did notice a blue-white on the radio control panel plug (6 pin connector that goes into dt1t-18k811-cd) and was wondering if that would work instead of the pin 10 on the fcdim?

On 3/15/2022 at 8:06 PM, Jseda said:

That's C2123 plug

 

Check if that plug has 10 wires..?

 

 

after digging into this, 
I have 9 wires and 2 are bk-wh. I have

1.bn-rd

2.empty

3.empty

4.bu-gy

5.vy-gy

6-bu

7.empty

8.ye

9.bk-wh

10.wh-gn (not bu-wt)

11.bk-wh

12.gn

so no pin 7 (i can add this and go to pin 5 on steering) and why is pin 10 listed twice?Can I use pin 10 wh-gn to pin 6 on steering wheel in place of bu-wh?

Also why are their 2 parking video positives?

again i appreciate everyone's help.

did you just jam the wires in?, looks good regardless. 
Also atoto's are pretty nice is that the 8inch s8 android?

9 hours ago, Jseda said:

 

Hello gossipninja 

 

Any luck with your radio...?

 

 

 I ordered a metra harness (https://www.bestbuy.com/site/metra-ford-swc-plug-and-play-harness-black/5741908.p?skuId=5741908&ref=NS&loc=101) that splits the camera off, but piggy backs the other wires, so I don't have to splice into the factory cables and that will take a few days to get here.

You mentioned with your after market radio you were just gonna wire the steering column pins to the key1 and key2  and since ultimately I will be putting an aftermarket head unit it I may end up doing the same and bypassing the need to tap into the fcdim circuit or even use an SWC box (even though I have a spare metra one that goes into my xxiv24 nav radio harness), 
So in the next few days I will be testing a theory and testing the steering column pins to see if the resistors of the audio buttons just give me raw values my aftermarket headunit (not currently installed) can read.

Again I appreciate the help (also I see you swapped your speedo cluster, I am just about to the bite the bullet but gotta check the mileage on it) I know someone on here did his own eeprom reporgram, and while I have the eeprom programmer, I don't know where to start to find and update the correct mileage values.

first off, I appreciate everyone's help, 

My fcdim looks complete.

So in theory I add wires connecting steering plug bluewithwhite_pin6 to bluewithwhite_pin10 on fcdim

and steering wheel white_pin5to fcdim greywithyellow_pin7?

and I guess if it turns out my FCdim DOESN"T have wires, can I just tap into any other HS-Can wires?,
 

the donor is at a local junkyard, they "may" let me cut that plug off (I have repinning tools, so that might be an option too)

Don't have any pics of the fcdim but here is the radio harness and acm model number

Yeah I just looked and don't have those wires.(edit and the donor car did)

Assuming I can add them and the pins what would I connect them on the radio or fcdim?

is there an option for "Audio buttons on steering wheel"?
Focus's have that option in byte 187 on this focus oriented asbuilt tool http://ford.xtlt.ru/ab/

It's possible this option isn't surfaced in forscan for transit connects.
 

yes i got factory backup and it shows in the 4 inch screen.
I know with focus's and f150s they have to go into forscan to enable radio control when they upgrade steering wheels. 

I compared my asbuilt and the steering wheel donor vehicle asbuilt and there are some changes in the FCDIM (front control display interface module) but I am not sure which values correspond to the radio buttons and I don't have a "good" obd reader to see all the modules on forscan yet.

Also I don't think you can just tap the ican signals and route them to the android headunit, I think you need a canbus box to decode those. maybe something like this https://www.ugar-hk.com/product-page/ford-oem-harness-with-canbus-for-ugar-head-units but I don't know if this works with the default AM/FM mechless option.

yeah I have violet gry and blue grey in my c240a (mine requires a canbus thing for aftermarket radio like a Metra XSVI-5524-NAV)

mechless means no disk drive, so without mechless means with disk drive.

I also have the 4 inch screen above

I have the radio that looks like the pic below. No sync, no HD or satellite to my knowledge, and it uses only 1 of the c240 connectors on the acm (the box the cd goes into)

I