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Good evening gentleman, I hope a admin/mod pins this as it is relevant for all Focus, Fiestas and Mondeos fitted with the DV5D Engine. The particular engine code we are focusing on here is the XVGB There is an outstanding recall for the camshaft pulley failing prematurely but only on certain build dates, I had the vehicle recovered to a Ford main dealer and they wanted to strip the head of the engine to investigate at £110 exc. VAT an hour, this is the same rate which Volvo/Mercedes charge which is ridiculous. Our camshaft pulley failed and broke into 3 places, eventually I will upload photos. This caused the cambelt to snap and some minor damage to the timing belt cover internally. The vehicle suffered this failure coming off a roundabout at between 30-40mph, the driver tried to restart the engine several times and the vehicle was recovered. After removing the top timing belt cover, it was immediately evident of the failure. Ford Customer Services were hopeless, they stated the build date was a few weeks off those engines affected, despite the pulley being fitted being superseded, one dealer said no goodwill at all unless 100% ford service history, Ford customer services eventually after 3 weeks of escalation stated they would contribute between 10%-20% to the cost of a new engine but our company would first have to pay upwards of £700 exc vat for the dealer to strip the engine and identify the cause. Onto brighter news. I had read about a Peugeot Partner with a DV6C engine in a forum that had suffered a timing belt failure and survived with only damage to the rocker arms. This engine was the 1.6HDI from 2012, it was changed from the 16v to 8v in this model year. The 16v which is the engine used in the Focus MK2 and famous for issues with the oil pipe to the turbo feed becoming blocked, unfortunately destroys the valves. This write up is not applicable to these engines, only the later 1.4, 1.6 and 1.5 8 Valve Engines 2012- Onwards The 8V is a much better engine without injector seal problems, turbo or lubrication issues. I am not claiming everyone will have the same mileage but I am hopeful that most will. This is not going to be an entire DIY but will be hopefully detailed to save someone the ridiculous cost of fitting a new engine and/or the substantial cost of removing the head. Follow a 1.5TDCi cambelt guide to remove the timing and auxilary belt order is roughly 1) Safely jack up and support vehicle 2) Remove drivers side wheel 3) Remove driver side inner wheelarch lining 4) Detension aux belt tensioner using spanner on cut out and remove belt 5) Remove crank pulley 6) remove bottom cover 7) support engine under sump using block of wood and jack ? Remove engine mount from chassis, then remove engine mount from block 9) Remove upper timing belt cover 10) Detension belt tensioner (13mm nut, 6mm allen hex) undo nut first or break the tensioner 11) Remove belt and clean up and debris in belt housing 12) Remove wipers and scuttle panel, there are several torx bolts and two 10mm bolts at the rear holding this on (gives better access) 12) Remove two bolts of the upper rear timing belt cover (these are part of the plastic upper rocker cover) 13) Remove all bolts from plastic section of rocker cover and remove clip holding breather pipe (replace with jubillee clip later) 14) Remove 4 bolts holding EGR valve in, 3 are facing forward, one is in the back 15) You will need to remove the Turbo boost pipes from the EGR valve and from the front section of the engine using a 7mm socket is best for this, you do not need to remove the aluminium pipe from the right hand side of the boost pipe, but you do need to remove the elbow section, studs and a bolt and get this out of the way. 14) You will have to remove the upper cage of the fuel filter, there are engine cover plastic studs and 10mm studs holding this on, there are two tricky bolts toward the bottom of the housing facing away from you, I did not put these back in and the fuel filter housing is solid without them and makes future work easy. 15) Remove lower cage of fuel filter housing and move back 16) Remove plastic oil filler/rocker cover 17) Once the plastic cover is off the top, you will want to replace this gasket. 18) Remove upper camshaft bearing caps (note you can remove vac pump if you want but not strictly necessary) There is an order to remove bearing caps and a torque down procedure which I will attach later (note it maybe tricky to remove as it is sealed together with silicone) These are all 8mm bolts and 10mm studs 19) Repeat procedure for the bottom section of the camshaft housing. 20) Remove 16mm bolt from camshaft pulley, I used a 6.5mm drill bit through timing pin hole and a 16mm socket (not that tight) 21) Remove camshaft seal (replace this) 22) Remove all rocker arms and replace, the peugeot reference for the parts is 0903.65 (The 1.5 shares the same parts as the 1.6HDi 8V, don't let Ford let you believe this is an all new engine it is NOT!) The original Ford ones did not have circlips on the tappets, new aftermarket parts did, there is literally nothing holding the rocker arms in once you have the top and bottom camshaft housings off, you simply lift out and replace. Mine had not broken or fractured but I replaced as good measure, they are sacrificial. 23) Check there is no debris in the rocker cover, by this I mean valve springs, collets etc, if there is you've likely bent a valve. NOTE: This is where it got interesting, I reassembled everything, timed the van up correctly, put a new belt on and rotated the engine by hand twice, it locked up with valve to piston interference, then I went back to the 1.6HDI Partner post, turns out the camlobes are pressed and hollow and can spin. 24) Replace Camshaft again 1.6HDI parts fit perfectly, same key for camshaft pulley and vac pump. Peugeot reference is 0801.FC 25) Clean all mating surfaces of the camshaft assembly and head, reseal using a small amount of black RTV sealant or similar. 26) Reassemble, I will post pictures of the workshop manual I used which gives tightening sequences and torque it seems to be in d,nm as French so bear this in mind. 27) Refit Camshaft Seal, Camshaft Pulley (These are under £16 from Ford Parts Plus!) and Time the Engine with crankshaft pulley remove the guide which the belt sits in is slotted and has one hole this is the timing mark, use a 4/5mm drill bit to lock this. The camshaft pulley locks between 2 and 3 o'clock and the fuel pump lock is obvious, you lock this between the two points with the whole in the block approx 4 or 5 o'clock position. Tip I used a small Torx bit to lock the tensioner and give me some more slack in the belt, manually move the tensioner pointer and lock against the hole in the body. 28) Make sure tensioner is installed with the circular casting holding the cut out section of the tensioner, when you use a 6mm allen key to tension to pointer you previously locked using a Torx bit should point in the middle of this cut out and be snugged down using a 13mm spanner. 28) Turn over engine by hand, at least twice, by twice this means two rotations of the bottom crank pulley not the other pulleys. From the timing pin being at 12 o'clock to 12 o'clock twice. The engine should turn and be hard in spots due to compression, this is a good sign. Once you have rotated twice make sure all the timing pins go back in the holes, if they do you can proceed to putting engine mounts, covers etc back on. I would recommend an oil and filter change after a brief run to get rid of any debris that has entered through the rocker cover. This work cost us less than £200 to complete and if you can DIY is worth trying before investing thousands on a new head or engine! I will upload workshop manual pictures and failed component pictures 29) Fire her up, as you have not removed coolant lines, fuel lines etc this vehicle should fire right up, allow it to settle. Ideally 20 mins of idling to let the new camshaft bed in. Hope this fills people with confidence that timing belts aren't going to be a costly disaster on these engines.