grindel

This just had this happen to me sitting at a gas station 50 miles from home. The bushing held together long enough to get home after I found the linkage and popped it back on. To reiterate OriginalJud's point, it is located right under the airbox hose on the driver's side on top of the engine. The design may suck but at least it isn't impossible to get to. That being said, I am glad this happened when I was driving and I can fix it for a couple of bucks. I had my family with me and it could have resulted in several hundred dollars of cost to me if I had to have it towed, had to take a cab home, and have it repaired at the dealer. To be in Reverse when Drive is indicated by the shifter (not the dash) is a safety concern that may lead to an accident resulting in property damage or harm. I do not think the driver is properly warned of this failure even though I think it is detectable. I think the design should have a retainer that prevents the failure in case the bushing comes apart and allows the driver to feel the sloppiness of the linkage as a result. The interlink of Park and key meant I could not take the key out of the ignition.

Don, Thanks for the excellent info! I think I'll start by taking out the seat so I have room to work when I get the door panel off. I am super slow when it comes to interior panel parts that tend to be breakable, I am not the gentle- ist of home gamer mechanics. I tested power and ground at connector C710 and the controller should have power/ground. Do you have any schematic snippets for the remaining C710 connector circuits I just want to eliminate damage on the chassis side since it is easy to check, for most CAN interfaces, I think it should be 60 ohm resistance, so I can pull off the batt lug and check that if a couple of those wires are, in fact, CAN. I downloaded Forscan this seems to be super interesting. Do you have any comment on the dangers of, say, resetting the Body Controller? There is a big warning that pops up when you want to. These errors pop up when I run the scan ===BdyCM DTC B110A:77-2C=== Code: B110A - Rear door driver side central locking motor Additional Fault Symptom: - Commanded Position Not Reachable Status: - DTC Maturing - Intermittent at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Body Control Module ===END BdyCM=== ===BdyCM DTC B110B:77-28=== Code: B110B - Rear door passenger side central locking motor Additional Fault Symptom: - Commanded Position Not Reachable Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC I will troubleshoot the passenger side rear door to see if this locks when requested. Thanks again, Nick

2016 Ford Transit Connect Wagon XLT LWB So the wife tried to roll down the window with something suction cupped to the window and it really hasn't been the same since so maybe the electronics in there have had a hot lunch or two. A couple of weeks ago the door stopped working altogether. It does not lock, it does not roll down the window, it always assumes the door is ajar. I checked the fuses in the rear of the vehicle and the fuse for the "Door control unit rear left" is ok and has power. I inspected the wiring in the track that goes to the door and superficially there didn't seem to be anything wrong. I unplugged and plugged this harness in. I pulled the fuse to see if this would stop the door ajar issue, it did not. The door ajar issue causes battery drain as it fails to shut off the parking lights under certain circumstances or the interior lights if those get turned on. I can't find any exploded views of the door or schematics to help troubleshoot. I'm sure as heck not going to take it into the dealer while we are under quarantine unless I absolutely have to. If I remember correctly there are 6 wires in this connector, I assume they are power, ground, CAN, and speaker but who knows for sure. There is a non-zero chance that some critter has eaten a section of harness somewhere inaccessible, I will probe what I assume are the power wires and maybe stick an o-scope on the CAN wires maybe and hopefully not blow anything up. Thinking about it, none of the wires were shielded, so maybe I have interpreted that incorrectly to think there is a CAN network running to the door. I asked the ford dealer where the "door control unit" was that is related to the fuse, they said, "in the door." I really wish I had a schematic snippet. I tried popping open the plastic on the door, but I peeked under the skirts there and it seemed like there was foam insulation glued on that I would have to cut through to explore further so I lost my nerve there too. Any advice on next steps would be great. Are there any parts sites that have good exploded views. Even googling "Door Control Unit" for transit connect doesn't really come up with much. Thanks much,