Tom L

Ah that explains it. I'll add a sensor - paint the rim black and be good to go Thanks Tom

My2013 TC came with a full size spare and the Continental tire - same as the other 4. I have the spare installed on the left rear now but cannot get the TPMS to recognize it. Did Ford spend money on a full spare wheel/tire and leave off the TPMS sensor? Seems like that would be a really stupid thing to do - but it is a Ford. Thanks Tom

If anyone one out there knows or can measure it - I need the approximate pulse width range(idle to wide open) for a fuel injector pulse. I'm guessing it's around 3msec at idle and maybe 150ms or less wide open. I guess you'll need a reference book of some sort, an oscillicope, or a diagnostic tool of some sort to get this. I want to measure fuel flow calculated by pulse duration. I'm assuming all cylinders have the same pulse duration and that fuel pressure is constant at all rpms. Thanks Tom

I'm thinking of selling the second row seats in my 2013 passenger van. They are located near Charlotte, NC. I think all seats for this van were same fabric and color - gray. Make offer - and you handle pickup, shipping, and delivery. See pics. I also have the single second row seat that matches but I didn't take pics originally Tom

I thought you guys might be interested in my modification to my 2013 van. I found a power window switch wiring kit and a cupholder on ebay. I moved the window switches to the side of my console and then added an elevated cupholder beside the emergency brake. The brake is a little awkward- but I rarely use it anyhow. One change not visible is that I added blue LEDs in the cupholders and also put one in that pocket at the front of the console. That works great at night. Tom

Update. I have around 5 k miles now on the van and have had no further problems. Thanks to all who replied and helped - I don’t think I could have found this problems fix on my own tom

Sorry for delay - been traveling. I’m up to 1500 miles now with no problem. Yep - I looked at mine last night and when I depress the accelerator, nothing under the hood moves. I feel much better now driving it - not expecting a jolt without notice at any moment. Tom

“Regarding acceleration: no, as the butterfly does not move”. So, the butterfly is also opened by the accelerator pedal? It’s raining here or I’d look under the hood. On my sons Honda - the accelerator does not move the butterfly - which I considered to be what ‘drive by wire’ means. That’s the first I’d ever seen like that. I’m more old school - rebuilt a lot of engines in the 60’s, then single body injection, then early Explorers where there is no accelerator position - other than the butterfly sensor

I found the schematic - there are two sensors in the accerator position sensor. Image attached..

I’ll order one of those scan tools when I get home again. That is definitely cheap enough to purchase. Tom

I was thinking on my problem last night - as it is somewhat nerve wracking to drive and think the car can slam into a lower gear at will. Anyhow - if the problem was related to the accelerator position sensor, that could explain my problem. But - this should also accelerate the engine. It would also really be bad for ford - if a simple single sensor could accerate the vehicle without warning. I would assume there are 2 sensors in there - and any hint of a discrepancy would throw an error code. Of course, I could be wrong as I’m definately no expert on this tom

What is a good reasonable data logger model? In the event I need to check that. Thanks tom

This one is tied to the air intake.

I put the new sensor in this morning - now the wait begins to see if the problem reoccurs. This generation has the sensor attached to the throttle body - not drive by wire. I just replaced the sensor itself instead of the entire assembly. I saw a video where a guy replaced the entire assembly. I was thinking that this sensor would not throw an error with the sensor detecting the accelerator floored as that would be a normal condition. It would also be within normal possibilities to floor the car and immediately let up - start to pass on a two lane road and the see an oncoming vehicle. In my case it amounted to an instant downshift at a rather low rpm - causing a severe brake feeling.

I pick the part up this afternoon Motorcraft sensor. I’ve learned my lesson multiple times on the off brand stuff. After thinking about it - the sensor could easily cause exactly what I’m am experiencing. I’ll check throttle this sfternoon also. Thanks again!!!! tom

Thanks for the info!! I will definitely check that first thing in the morning. I would love it to be that simple as I really like the van otherwise. I’m not seeing any error codes or engine light. Does the throttle position sensor problem you mentioned throw an error code? Thanks Tom

I just got a 2013 XLT Premium with 53000 miles on it. I drove it 500 miles on a trip on day 1 and the transmission jerked the car rather severely 2 times. Both times I had reduced my speed such that I was not in the top gears and I was just starting to push the gas gently. It really slammed the car - as if it locked up for a quarter second or so. Other than that - it runs great - shifts fine, no slipping, and no noises. I took it to the ford dealer and they checked and said there were no bulletins on it and that a connection of the vehicle to their computer showed no error codes. They also test drove it with no problem. As I'm fairly competent at car repair and also an engineer - I have a theory as to what is happening - but why is what the real problem is. As it operates perfectly 99.9% of the time - I have to determine what could cause such a violent jerk very rarely. All I can come up with is that the vehicle is downshifting when I slow down, and then upshifting as I start to accelerate. My thought is that the transmission is actually going into 2 gears at once - momentarily. If you don't understand how an automatic transmission works, then don't reply that this is impossible or crazy. I know there are clutches and bands in there that are engaged and disengaged with electric solenoids. A wiring problem could easily create total havoc in the transmission operation. I am guessing that I have one of 2 problems: 1, the solenoids are not energizing due to a wiring problem, connector, .. 2. a band or clutch is hanging up somehow and not properly disengaging So my questions are (and other theories are also being solicited) 1. exactly what does the computer monitor in the transmission are there sensors/switches that actually verify the solenoid positions or maybe just the voltage is monitored can the computer determine if the vehicle is actually going into 2 gears somehow - band or clutches hanging or energizing abnormally 2. does anyone have all the possible error codes for the transmission 3. does anyone have the wiring diagram for the transmission 4. where is the transmission computer I'm assuming that my transmission is pretty much ok now - but it will self destruct with a few more of these severe jolts. I'm open to any ides/suggestions Thanks Tom