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If I had known it was less than $20, I wouldn't have even bothered making a post about it.

No, but after swapping one side for the other I'm pretty sure it's the socket or it's contacts. Finally found it on parts.ford.com after searching elsewhere for the part number. It was only a few dollars more than the off brands, so I went ahead and ordered it. Should come in today. We'll see.

It looks like the front turn signal lamp mount has stopped connecting. I tried switching it with the one on the other side to see if my headlight assembly was at fault, but it looks like it's just this lamp mount. I just thought I'd check to see if anyone else had this go out and if there's a work around, like maybe straightening contacts or something. They look alright, but something isn't making connection.

Update: Most of you likely know this, but ONLY USE FORD SENSORS!!! The O'Reilly's sensor failed after a little over a year. Instead of failing like the original where it didn't send any info, it failed by sending the wrong info. I looked down and suddenly my van was overheating. Luckily I had a laser thermometer with me that told me it was lying.

Unsure of where to start, I replaced the high beam switch / turn signal, since it needed to be done anyway, in order for my high beams would stay on without me holding the switch back the whole time. That was it. My low beams are as bright as they should be now.

Anyone know what the max tongue weight is on a 2010 2.0L gas, US version? Researching motorcycle platforms and I'm guessing 600lbs tongue weight might be a little much, but thought I'd see what everyone had to say.

Anyone know what the max tongue weight is on a 2010 2.0L gas, US version? Researching motorcycle platforms and I'm guessing 600lbs tongue weight might be a little much, but thought I'd see what everyone had to say.

My headlights have suddenly become very dim. Could be the alternator, but I don't seem to be losing battery power. Another issue is that I can't seem to get the brights to stay switched on. They only work when I keep holding the switch back. Any ideas? 2010 Transit Connect 2.0L. Thanks.

Van is back. The third switch worked. The shop owner said he hunted down a genuine Ford switch, instead of the store brand switches that all the parts stores stock.

Update: These brake switches are delicate little things. I took my van to the shop, and allegedly I broke the switch installing it. After it didn't work in one of the 3 spots, I tried a different one. Installing it twice is apparently bad. They tried to install another switch, and it seems that they didn't do it right either. They're still figuring it out. Hopefully I get my van back tomorrow.

Not the switch. Unless I'm choosing the wrong fuse, I have no clue. I even unplugged my Curt trailer wiring kit, and plugged the lights in as they were from the factory. No use. Replaced a suspect bulb, nothing...

Guess I need a new stop light switch?

Well I guess it's not an emergency anymore, now that I know I can pry the little circular cover off next to the shifter and push something down with a screwdriver. But I do still need to figure this out. Any input?

2010 2.0L gas version with automatic stuck in park. Any ideas? I saw something concerning the brake light fuse online, so I switched it and then made it to a convenience store to by more fuses, now I'm stuck in park again. (so, I'm guessing that wasn't the cause.)

I just noticed that my van still has the original battery after 9 years. It's dated Nov of 2010. I noticed the other 2010-2013 Transit Connects I looked at had Ford batteries. Can these batteries be expected to last unusually long, or should I start looking for a replacement before my next road trip?

Question for people using their Transit Connect as a personal vehicle: Has anyone else been hassled by their insurance company for not registering as a commercial vehicle? Mine has repeatedly given me the run down of, "What are you using this for?", "What's your occupation?", etc... Obviously, I should change carriers, but I have a claim open and I'm pretty sure they'll drop the claim if I drop them, since it seems they're always trying to build a case against me. My claim's been, "under management review" for almost a month now though.

So far, we're good. Changing the sensor is actually super easy if you can find a 19mm or 3/4 socket long enough, you don't have to remove the valve cover. I watched this video to start the process of removing the valve cover then realized that it wasn't needed. Had to ride my bike to the pawn shop to get a long enough socket, but I didn't have to remove the valve cover. *Including this video only to show sensor seal removal.

Thanks for the info, G B L. Any prep I need to do before changing the sensor, other than pulling the valve cover and spark plug connectors?

My van's check engine light came on and at the same time the engine temp read cold after being on the highway 15 minutes. Parts store said it was a temperature sensor error, which stands to reason given the evidence. So, I bought a new one. Now my questions are where does it go? And is there a separate engine head temperature sensor and coolant temperature sensor or are they the same? It looks like the one I have goes in the head between the two middle spark plugs, is that correct?

Forgot to specify, the smell is outside the cabin. I'm going to go with the theory that it's a tiny leak, or nothing, for now and keep an eye on the engine temp. I'll look around the radiator and check for crust on the hoses. Thanks everyone.

Sometimes my 2010 has a coolant / antifreeze smell, but the coolant level has not gone down in 5,000 miles. The coolant level was slightly low when I purchased her, but after topping it off, hasn't been low since. I know this smell from previous vehicles that have had leaks. Any idea where to begin looking? Info: 2010 2.0L gas engine, only 47,000 miles.

I'm looking for rear seats, belts, and mounts for my 2010. I'm in Dallas. Please PM if you have some you'd like to sell.