Campcrazy

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to try 44 vs 40 psi for a few days to see if there is any change in ride getting bumpier. If not ill stick with 44 just to hedge my bets on best possible mpg. I'm very happy with the mpg now but I like to try to maximize it. Btw this TC doesn't have fog lights but has the cup like depressions. I'm thinking of gluing clear plastic over these to cut down on wind resistance. Might slightly increase mpg on the highway. I'll use a clear silicone. This will both seal things against moisture and won't show. Plus it can easily be pealed off in the future if the plastic lenses get foggy and I want to put on new ones. I see new TC's have a motorized grill that only opens if the radiator needs more air from heat. I bet that really helps mpg on the highway. Wonder if this part can be retrofitted to pre 2014 models. I'm also curious if anybody has done any mods to open up the air intake more. On the rangers I owned we used to pull off the long plastic intake tube from air filter to throttle body and replace it with PVC. The stock tube had a very restrictive funnel inside it that was meant to baffle intake noise a little.

Just giving you guys a heads up. Before I bought my 2013 TC a few weeks ago, I had them put it on a lift so I could inspect it underneath. It was clean with no rust, and I am going to get it rust proofed this spring. But I noticed this lift and prior times it had been lifted had caused damage by just where they lifted the truck, and this would very quickly rot out the body unless its addressed. There is a big pinch seam that runs down both sides underneath the TC, just a few inches in from the rocker panels. This seam joins two pieces of body sheet metal and sticks down from the truck by a good bit, like maybe an inch. You can see this seam easily by standing back from either side of the truck ten or twenty feet and looking just underneath the rock panels. In my case the missing paint in spots was obvious. If the lift they are using has arms to support the vehicle, rather than the type where the vehicle wheels rest on the lift, make sure you tell them to adjust the arms so they don't raise it on those pinch seams. I could see not only the paint and I think a caulk broken and pealed off, exposing the metal to rusting and water intrusion between the seam, but also the seam its self in one spot was crushed a little and starting to separate. There were obvious places where this has occurred from prior lifts and the lift it was on when I was inspecting it. Luckily no rust has started yet, but before I have the truck rustproofed this spring I'm going to lightly sand these seams, treat them with a rust arresting product, and then paint them and all the way out to the bottom edge of the rocker panels with a rock hard bedliner material. This should prevent further new damage should somebody lift the vehicle on the pinch seams again because the bedliner will resist cracking or chipping, but I'm going to be darn sure to tell any future service garage to not lift it on those seams. Luckily I do 99% of all work on my vehicles so I don't have to worry about that situation too much. Check yours out to ward off problems. If paint is missing get under there inspect and seal things with a good rust arrestor even if you don't see any rust, and paint it with a chip guard or bedliner. I'm trying to decide if I want to use a rubberized bedliner or a rock hard type, which I hear is less risk at pealing?

Hey like that ham mount! I might do the same thing for my portable cb radio's antenna. Either that or I'll use it as a fan ventilation port but I'd have to drill a hole in the inside back of the door for the air to flow through and I'd use a tiny fan with a mounting plate rigged up to match the existing thumb screws that hold the cover on. Fan would install inside of the tc door. A little screen across the drilled vent hole would keep mosquito's out when camping. When the fan isn't used I could just screw the factory cover plate back on. Another idea for people would be to mount a light in that spot for outside lighting when camping or working behind the vehicle. Looks like you bought a UK TC taillight and drilled through it to use as your mount? If I do an antenna rather than buying the lens I'll probably use a piece of thick rubber to mount and drill through. Don't want to drill out the stock cover in case I go back to that.

The max load of these is 1400 pounds at 44 psi as compared to what you said waswas 1521 pounds at 50 psi of the stock tire. Not as big of a difference as I thought, but I'm still wondering if I should go from 40 to 44psi. As said my main worries are to keep the ride less bouncy on real bad roads but also not to hurt mpg.

Good to know about the over seas popularity and long production span (2002 to 2013?) of the pre 2014 design, as well as that the focus shared the same motor/tranny and I guess (?) suspension parts. This not only bodes well for parts and accessories, but also that many bugs were worked out. What span of years of Focus was that? And so over seas the TC didn't feature this motor? Did they use this tranny? My main accessories I'm looking to get now would be a chrome grill, chrome side mirrors covers, and a chrome non-locking gas cap door. The fact that I have to use a key to not only open the filler door, but also that I can't lock it first and later push it closed is a real hassle. I'm tall too (over 6') and the extra roof height of the older TC is a plus for that for sure. I also like that I can raise the seat height for a more comfortable ride with long legs and not feel like I'm sitting on the ground, yet no risk of hitting my head on the ceiling. Beyond all that I just like the looks of the older design, especially the squared off high aggressive look of the back, split rear doors and all. Not a fan of the single hatch door on some models. The newer TC design, while still unique, to me feels like it lost much of that distinct look, and starts to remind me more of a mini van and not a unique crossover. So isn't it that the old design only came in one wheel length and roof height here in the USA, but 2014+ models come in two different roof heights and wheel lengths? If so how does the higher roof/longer wheel base version compare in head height & cargo length compared to the old design? BTW I see a lot of the old version being used by utility and service trades. I suspect as these are sold off many will be bought by the general public and customized or turned into mini RVs, etc, so in a way you might see them more frequently on the road instead of sitting in a parking lot of fleet vehicles at some company.

I just bought a used 2013 cargo xlt TC and it came with a single button remote start fob. No manual but using the model # of the remote start fob figured out its a Python model 4111P. http://www.pythoncarsecurity.com/Products/RemoteStart/629/4111.aspx Found the manual online (but the manufacturer name isn't python). Pythons site has the remote start but they didn't have the manual online there. Anyway, if I use the remote start my door won't unlock with the ford key fob either. Had to use the key...until I found that remote manual and read up on its features. Just press the remote fob and it will unlock the door. Or...hold the button for a few seconds and I think it will turn the vehicle off. BTW this basic remote start has some nice features. You can change how long the engine will run, whether the lights come on, etc. First remote start I ever owned and I love it! Just have to remember to turn my wipers off and heat and defrost on before I get out of my TC at night so its ready to warm up and my frozen wipers aren't trying to work. I would like to add an alarm to my TC. Are you saying there are alarms that plug into the remote start to work? The python site says this remote start is compatible with SmartStart phone app and module but I don't know if that features a alarm or two way alarm? Hmmmm....I wonder if my remote start already has this module? How can I find out? Maybe I'll download the app and see if it has a linking feature. There is a small black rectangular box at the top of the windshield behind the mirror. Is this a GPS antenna for tracking your vehicle via the app? I guess it could be just the remote start antenna but I doubt it would need one that big? I don't have satellite radio so I know its not for that anyway.

The one thing I do not care for on my TC is having to use the key to open and close the gas tank door. It wouldn't be so bad if I could open it with the key and then lock it and put my keys away, but then you can't close the door with it already in the locked position. I'd rather not have a locked door. I'm wondering if there is an aftermarket door with no key needed. Preferably a chrome one as that would look good on this silver TC.

Just an impromptu pole as to which version of body you prefer and why? When I was shopping around I looked at the newer 2014+ version and its outside looks didn't appeal to me and the less roof height especially. The only thing I did like was the slightly better mpg rating of the base 2.5L 6 speed vs the 2.0L 4 speed, but I'm very impressed with the mpg of the 2.0 compared to my prior Ford Ranger. I was also worried about acceleration getting on highways and such before driving it but its perfectly fine to me. Way more peppy than I expected. My other question concerns how many of these 2010 to 2013 models were sold here in the USA. I don't want to find out parts are hard to find or everybody stops making accessories for this version of TC. But wan't this same body style and motor/tranny combo sold in Europe since 2003? If so I'd have more confidence that aftermarket accessories continue to be made for it, as well that this motor/tranny/body had most of the bugs worked out before it came to America in 2010?

Thanks for the info. This 2013 silver TC xlt cargo version I just bought had 82,000 miles on it but the thing is mint. No scratches in the cargo area etc. The new tires they put on for the sale are an 80,000 mile Falken Touring tire. Yea load rating is probably a bit lower than OEM but I'm happy their an 80,000 mile tire for long life. Not too worried about lower load ability since I don't carry too many tools and parts (in rubber made containers...don't want to muck it up with shelves). For my mini rv camping excursions I also won't carry too much weight. Since these are 44psi max tires are you telling me I should fill them to 44psi or do you think 40 is good? My main concerns are I don't want to hurt gas mileage but also don't want a harsh boucey ride on bad roads.

Hmmm...can't figure out how to look at your gallery yet. New here. What did you do? I'm planning to use mine for camping so was thinking of using it for a micro fan ventilation duct. Is that what you did? I think that panel unscrews from inside of door with thumb screws like a tail light does donesnt it?

2013 TC. I'm guessing maybe its where the third tail light would be in Europe but here in the USA they put the tail light on the roof?

Thanks for the info. When I was shopping for a used TC I saw one with the cover popped off and it did have a socket hole behind it. Wasn't sure what it was for. This is here in the USA so at least some come with it here.

You guys need to state your year, engine, cargo or van version, trim package, and how much if any weight your carrying. All these things are very pertinent when comparing mpg. Otherwise the data is useless to contrast. My 2013 xlt cargo version TC with 2.0L I just bought has been doing mixed city/highway driving and my mileage ive computed so far is 19.74, 20.43, 21.43, and 21.46 mpg. This is carrying roughly 500 pounds in the back. This spring I'll be doing a total tune up on it myself, including cleaning the throttle body, MAF, new platinum (or something even better) spark plugs, synthetic oil and tranny fluids, etc. The whole 9 yards. I'll post my mpg results as these things are done. Anybody have any other ideas or mods to improve the already fantastic gas mileage? I've got a question about tire pressure. I know you should always go by the door jam sticker but man 44 psi in the front and 49 in the back seems a bit high. The new tires the dealer put on are only 44psi max pressure anyway. Not wanting to max them out like that and also to soften the ride a bit (it ain't bad...I'm happy with the ride...its just the roads around here are bad)...I lowered them to 40 psi. Do you think this is a good or bad idea and do you think it will hurt gas mileage? I'm not carrying much weight and figure 49psi in the rear is for max loading? By the way anybody finding success with a softer ride using better shocks on bad roads? I'd like to hear about it.

I'm wanting to research reliability and preventative history of the 2.0L in my just bought 2013 TC. Since when did they stop putting a name on the top of a motor? Exactly which Ford 2.0L is this because I think they made many versions for various vehicles. A sticker on a hood or front clip that genericly says "2.0L" doesn't tell me much.

What is behind that snap off plastic cover on the back bumper? Can't find anything in the manual. I would suspect its to lower the rear tire but I thought I saw that crank just inside back doors on the floor?