Scott Stokley

Thank you jrm223! I knew it had to be something simple like that! Is this something that I could do myself? I'm a mechanical engineer and pretty handy. I have the XL also so I'm certain this will fix it. I did get an extended warranty with this van because of the miles I drive, I've had it 13 months and I've already got 54,000 miles on it. Thanks again so much for your input, I appreciate it.

All right I have something strange going on and I need some outside input. The external temperature reading on the center display above the radio is going crazy. It will go from reading the correct outside temperature down to -30 or -40°. When it drops past the 32° freezing mark the air conditioning cuts off. If I drive it for a few more minutes the temperature will slowly correct itself and as it rises past the 32° freezing mark you can hear the compressor kick on and you can feel the cold air coming out of the vents again. It appears that the AC is somehow being controlled by that temperature sensor? It doesn't make sense to me but that's what it's been doing now for about two weeks. The system is not low on Freon, because once I get up to speed on the interstate, the temperature reading will be steady at the correct outside temperature and the air conditioning will run perfectly fine for hours on end. Has anyone heard of this, experienced this, and figured out how to fix it? I spoke to my local Ford dealership and they have never heard of this. I'm just afraid if I take it in for repairs they won't be able to duplicate what it's doing. Help!

I have a 2010 transit connect. When I changed the spark plugs there was oil in the spark plug cavity. Has anyone experienced this? Am I correct in assuming it is the valve cover gasket that has gone bad? And has anyone changed it, is it easy to do? Thanks Scott

Alright, I jumped right in & tackled this & it was surprising easy. I took the passenger side tire off for easier access (after jacking that side up & securing it on a stand). There is a plastic cover with 2 bolts that once removed, gives you easy access to the belt tensioner pulley. The pulley had a nut-like protrusion on it that I think was 15mm. Simply put a wrench on that & turn clockwise to release the belt tension. The belt can then be pulled off. The pulley has 2 bolts holding it on & it only took me a few minutes to R & R. The belt was a bit trickier to replace as I did put a new one on since this one had 97000 miles on it. (Save it as a back-up in case the new one ever breaks - it will keep you from getting stranded). It actually took me longer to replace the belt than it did to replace the pulley. I know this will anger you Ford mechanics but the entire job only took me 20 minutes start to finish & I ordered the parts from Rockauto.com for less than $90. My local Ford dealer wanted to charge me $349. I think that's simply outrageous. Look, I know you dealers have a lot of overhead & training, etc. to cover but charging triple for the parts & 2 hours (not one but 2 hours!) labor for this job is flat out wrong. I also R & R'ed the spark plugs in under 5 minutes for $10 & Ford wanted to charge me $239 - come on guys, that's tough to justify!

I bought a 2010 TC new for my wholesale distribution business & I absolutely love this vehicle. However, when it was in the shop for minor repairs, they said the serpentine belt tensioner was the reason for the whining noise I was hearing. I was somewhat relieved that it wasn't the transmission but the Ford dealership wants $350 to R & R it charging me 1 hour labor & $113 for the belt tensioner which Auto Zone has for $43 (& $63 for the belt, $42 at AZ). Can I do this job myself? I'm a pretty fair shadetree mechanic. Does it require any special tools/wrenches? Thanks in advance for your help! Scott