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Schrott

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Everything posted by Schrott

  1. Take out the tail lights, unplug them, be carefull not to brake the security clip on the plugs. On the bottom of the opening is a gromet, pull it out. Below the door hinge is a nother gromet, pull it out. It is a little difficult to to route the wires through those holes. Start with the passenger side. First you have to cut the green wire on the harness, about 3 inches from the plugs. Than cut the flat 4 wire of the trailer plug about 3 to 4 inches from the module. Now cut a hole into the gromets big enough that the flat wire, the green wire and if you want to route the 12 gage power wire that way, fit through it. Tip, split the flat in the middle it fits better through the hole. Tip rout the 12 gage power wire along the passenger side, along the taillight wiring harness. Run the green wire through the gromet and than guide it through the chasi holes, starting with the hole at the bottom of the opening for the tail lights. Needs a little wigling to get it through both holes. Now push the trailer plug wire through the gromet and than starting at the hole under the door hinge fiddel the wire through the holes. Help full is a sturdy wire with a hook, with which one can pull the wires out of the holes. That is the most difficult part and takes a little time. Once the trailer plug wire is inside the tail light openingguide it through the gromet push the gromet into its hole and than connect the wire to the module, I used the fast connect clips. Since the wires are color coded no big deal. The green wire is guided through the gromet and the gromet is pushed into the hole under the hinge. There is a small opening between pumper and chasi, thats were I pushed the trailer plug and the green wire through. The plug barely fits. Than run the wires inside the bumper. The trailer wire naturally only to were the hitch is. the green wire all the way to the left, same procedure as on the right. I ran the 12 gage power wire to the left. It makes the deal with the gromets especialy on the right side a little more difficult, it gets really crowded. Thats why I would on a nother instalation run that wire along the passengerside to the batterie. conect the green wire to the plugs, route the power wire inside the chasi to the front. Right side now, connect the power wire to the modual. Using the 2 sided sticky tape, mount the modual at the very bottom of the tail light opening. It is a little crowded inside the opening and when instaling the taillight one has to push wires and plugs out of the way. push the plugs together. Install taillight. Same on the left. Now finish routing the 12 gage to the front. One has to remove some of the plastic moldings, some hex screws and phillips. The wire is not long enough, to reach the batterie, About 3 feet short. Left of the Brake Pedal are 2 rubber gromets. Pull one out, push a whole into it, run 12 gage wire through it, take the wire with the hook and fish it inside the motor compartment out. It will come out just behind the main fuse and relay box. Attach the supplied wire with the fuse holder to the batterie, connect it to the 12 gage, secure it with wire straps. .Put your plastic mouldings back. Test everything, install fuse, test everything. If the car does not burn down, good job. 1 hour and 30 minutes. Installing the hitch from Curt is a piece of cake, takes about 45 min. Remove Spare. Inside of the frame are the holes with the weldet nuts. On the pasenger side just at the rear hole is a wire. Pull the clip. Forget about the clip it will brake, but it has to be removed and the wire pushed out of the way. Twist the rubber hanger from the muffler 90 degree and it will come out of the slot. Now slide the hitch under the vehicle and lift the right side in place, whatch for wires and the fuel lines. I could not get a screw to catch a thread at this stage. So I took a bungee and wraped it around the braket and the spring to hold the right side of the hitch in place. Now push the muffler down, don't be shy and slide the hitch over it and push it up onto the frame and insert the screws . Tkae the bungee of, push the braket in place insert screws. check that no wires or fuel lines are in the way. 19 mm wrench or socket, tighten the bolts. Install spare. Done.
  2. I just put the first 1000 on mine. I live at 7500 feet elevation and have to go on a daily base into the valley, 6000 feet. The first 4 miles are very steep and naturally when it snows quiet interesting. I am used to drive a Volvo XC, which is a tank. I use just run of the mill Big O Snow tires. The Transit does rather well for a 2 weel drive. One thing I had to get used to is the anty wheel spin, controlled throught the brakes, it makes the vehicle jerk around a little. Not anything wild, but if you come from a 4 wheel drive, something to get used to. When it really gets beastly with the weather, I just chain up, takes 5 minutes per wheel. Overall I am satisfied how it handles snow. I like very much the automatic, it has great breaking, shift in 2 or 1 or just out of OT, which is nice on steep slik roads
  3. Good info. First time I used the horn I nearly ran of the road, I was laughing so hard, toet
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