nphinc

G B L, first, thanks for hanging with me. Just drained coolant, no oil. Drained oil, no water. When I pulled dipstick it definitely had the look of water & oil. I'm very familiar with it having went through the flood here in Nash. When I changed the VC gaskets back in December I really didn't take a look at the head or VC much. I cleaned the area up, put a new gasket on with RTV in the prescribed areas & torqued it down. I bought the TC about 5 years ago with maybe 24k on the clock. I remember pulling the coils & generally poking around under the hood to familiarize myself with it when I first got it. The #1 well had a lot of "rust" in it, the other 3 were clean. Cleaned up in there best I could but never pulled the VC. Would check it periodically but it wasn't until road trip back in December enough oil had collected in well #1 to start shorting coil. I've got a new VC coming this week. When I change it out I'll look very carefully for cracks, etc. I'm curious what coolant passage ways are to the left of #1.

G B L, I didn't note any oil in coolant in expansion tank at this point, but the tank is kinda opaque. No rain this morning when it was missing. I'm going to drain some coolant from rad to see if there's any oil in rad. You've given me some hope it's the valve cover, so I'll pull it off in the next few days and have a look. It needs replaced anyway. I'd only been in there one time before so wasn't sure if there were coolant passage ways. I'm going to order for a new cover from TASCA. I ordered a door lock cylinder and air cleaner hose from them. Prices weren't bad compared to dealers. If you care to point me to a less expensive parts house I'd be grateful. This couldn't have happened at a less opportune time!

G B L, I had the common experience of oil in the #1 & 4 plug well back toward end of year. That's when I replaced the valve cover gasket, installed new plugs. I was on a trip when truck started misfiring then. Pulled into a parts store off I81 in VA, pulled coil & cleaned up all the oil in the #1 well. Cleared code, finished a 2k mile roundtrip. Today, truck started misfiring bad, MIL blinking. As mentioned earlier, P301 code, figured I'd find that original coil just gave out. Go to pull coil off, brass insert just spinning around. I wasn't going to trust it since I had a brand new one from previous trip but never installed it. Dremel cut coil off because bolt can't come out. Ok, I can replace with a 59.00 Focus valve cover instead of 110.00 TC cover. When I pulled the coil there was a lot more water in there than oil. Pulled dipstick...let's just say I'm not hopeful. Too much rain to be screwing around today. Is it possible for coolant to make it's way into oil from bad cover or perhaps valve cover gasket failed on #1 side? I immediately assumed the worst.

Hello all, haven't been in here in quite awhile. 2010 TC has 97k on the clock and until now nothing more than routine maintenance. Changed oil 3.5k ago. Nothing unusual. Running rough today, engine light comes on, then blinking. Pulled P301 code, #1 cyl. misfire. Pull coil, plug well partially filled with coolant. I did change the valve cover gasket & plugs at around 92k. May need to pull head. Anybody in here have experience with this job? Thanks.

Picked up part #9T1Z6121813B. Replaced lock actuator. All good. Again 103west, thanks for reading instructions to me!

103west, thanks for clarification. Lock cylinder came out per your post. Cylinder is fine, might be time for actuator motor. I'm going to try to remove it & test.

Anybody? Can't find any info on the web

Driver door on 2010 TC won't lock with fob or key. With key I can only turn lock CCW (unlock). It won't budge CW. With the fob the actuator motor makes the clicking sound, but I starting to think the lock cylinder is the problem. I can't remove it to disconnect from actuator. I removed the c-clip, turned key to CCW position & pushed in the tab with a screw driver, but can't rotate the key CW past the 12 o'clock position, which is supposed to remove it. I thought if I got the lock cylinder out, the actuator should work if the cylinder itself is damaged. Or, cylinder is fine & actuator is shot. Either way, lock cylinder has to come out. Any ideas?

I installed the Curt & same wiring kit. I found the instructions with the kit somewhat vague & referred to this post. The hitch itself was a no-brainer. Of course, I picked the hottest day Nashville has seen in many years to do it. Still, 40 minutes, done. I started on the passenger side with the wiring kit. I do have 2 grommets on each side, under the door hinges & inside the tail light wells. Used a piece of 20 ga. solid as a fish tape. Only wires to exit passenger side to drivers side were green power & flat 4 cond. ribbon. Took black 12v wire through back of right tail light well, past the convenience power point. Inside plastic wire wrap are 2 wires. Orange is hot 12v, straight off battery. Grabbed power there. Short run, maybe 4'. Stuffed module in right tail light well. Left ribbon harness inside TC, ran green wire under bumper to left side. Checked for power. Ran to Uhaul. Hate that place, but had to get on the road to Detroit. Hooked up 5x8. Had employee watch turn signals. I yell left side turn signals, he looks & then looks right & yells "got 'em." Vice versa for right turn signal. I get out & ask the guy if he's trying to get me killed. He looks like a deer in head lights. I gotta go. Pull module out of tail light well, reverse yellow & other color leads (don't remember). Everything works. Uneventful empty tow to Detroit. Had grave concerns pulling with a Ford Focus. No issues. Stayed in OD with cruise control. 65-70, 2800 rpms. On hills, TC down shifts, cancel cruise & keep revs under 3k. Coming back with Hammond C3, Leslie, bench & pedals in trailer AND a 73' Fender Rhodes Suitcase 88 in TC no issues. Of course, I'm not counting straight line winds in Ohio north of Dayton & a killer, glorious light show courtesy of God, on I71 between Cincy & Louisville. Raining sheets. Slowed down, way down. Made it home 11 hours later, cargo intact. I wouldn't do it on a daily basis, but I don't fear hurting the Cub Cadet (TC).

Replaced my front pads/rear shoes the other day w/40k on the clock. I bought used about a year ago w/24k on the clock. I don't know if they were replaced prior to my buying it. From what I read here, most likely. Easy, quick driveway job. The problem was finding the rear shoes. Had to get them online. Not one set within 250 miles of Nashville.

Thanks 103! Appreciate the tip. I'll give them a call tomorrow.

I took my TC in to local dealer today to have FWS/ToolLink removed. Funny, they left the keyboard & Tool Link stuff still mounted on the walls of the truck. Installed a 6000CD that won't let me set time correctly. It keeps reverting back to 9:09, 08/11/09. I run a service business so who cares what time it is Only thing I'll miss is the built in Garmin. I'm just going to hang my old TomTom on the windshield & wait on a check from Ford... If I can install an Aux in, I won't have a need for anything fancier. I'll just put some better speakers in the door.

Found it yesterday Kmoilan. Thanks for posting here. Nice resource.

Accidently posted this in Recall Forum. Sorry for double post. I got a letter from Ford wanting to replace FWS & DeWalt Tool Link due to ongoing issues. I don't use it. I bought used & it came with TC. Ford will replace w/cheap radio & issue refund for Window Sticker of FWS/Tool Link, which is fine with me. I'll miss the built in Garmin but can hang my old TomTom on windshield. Does anybody know sticker msrp of FWS/Tool Link? Anybody else get the letter & taking advantage of it?

I got a letter from Ford wanting to replace FWS & DeWalt Tool Link due to ongoing issues. I don't use it. I bought used & it came with TC. Ford will replace w/cheap radio & issue refund for Window Sticker of FWS/Tool Link, which is fine with me. I'll miss the built in Garmin but can hang my old TomTom on windshield. Does anybody know sticker msrp of FWS/Tool Link? Anybody else get the letter & taking advantage of it?