mrjoelrobinson

Nokay, any update? I'm thinking about this setup or the Bilstein B6s https://gazcoilovers.com/ford-transit-connect-gaz-coilovers-123-c.asp

I'm a little late to the party but wanted to share an update to this topic of custom/ adjustable suspension. https://gazcoilovers.com/ford-transit-connect-gaz-coilovers-123-c.asp I had a set of GAZ shocks/struts built for a Honda Insight and they were quite good. I don't know about motorsport quality but for a typical car, more than adequate. It was pretty funning driving the little jelly bean around like a maniac to test the handling, pull over, crawl under the back to tweak the shocks, repeat. The front struts adjust with a knob that you keep in your toolbox.

I found this option: https://gazcoilovers.com/ford-transit-connect-mk2-gaz-gha-coilover-suspension-kit-329-p.asp Unfortunately, it's listed as a "fast road and stance market" and includes a shorter rear shock. Not what I'm looking for but still promising--GAZ are the company who custom built the coiler/adjustable struts and shocks for my Honda Insight. Having adjustable damping when you're swapping springs can be quite helpful. A bit more digging revealed this: https://www.modyourconnect.co.uk/product/gaz-mk2-transit-connect-adjustable-rear-shock-absorbers-standard/ rear shocks for non-lowered vehicles. I sent an inquiry to MYC and GAZ to get their recommendations. I found these spacers by tema4x4 that I'm thinking could be combined with lowering springs like the Eibach pro kit to get both higher rate and slightly higher ride height. Would be best to achieve both using the proper springs but for this low-aftermarket-interest vehicle, I'm trying to be realistic. ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/294951044023?fits=Model%3ATransit+Connect|Make%3AFord

Hi, I recently bought a 2015 TC XLT wagon to use as a micro camping van for my family of 4. I enjoy driving a vehicle with responsive handling and have avoided buying a truck, van, SUV, RV, etc. for this reason for many years. For perspective, here are the cars I've owned: 1998 Subaru Impreza RS -- added turbo kit, STI suspension, AP Racing brakes, Cusco rear sway bar, Momo leather shift knob 2004 Subaru WRX STi -- upgraded exhaust (car was set up really nice to start with) 2000 Honda Insight -- Custom adjustable struts/shocks, adjustable springs, custom rear sway bar, short shifter, S2000 leather wheel, Accord leather knob 2000 Honda Insight -- Full K20 engine swap, 6-speed transmission (sold because it went fast only in a straight line, poor handling) 2010 Honda Fit Sport -- Swift Sport springs (HUGE improvement), rear sway bar, numerous chassis braces, short shifter, Enkei racing lightweight wheels 2014 Subaru Crosstrek - Whiteline rear sway bar. (sold because it was boring to drive) 2015 Subaru Crosstrek -- Full 2016 WRX engine/drivetrain/interior swap 2005 Lotus Elise -- Supercharger, lightweight (for Lotus!) wheels, 2-piece brake rotors From the above list, hopefully it's clear that I enjoy upgrading my cars and tend to focus on improving the handling and driving experience. Now enter the Transit Connect. Yep, not the sexiest or most high-performance vehicle to start with. I'm okay with that and would like to look for any relatively simple, high bang-for-buck upgrades that would make the TC a more enjoyable vehicle to drive on extended road trips on mountain passes, curvy roads of various types, etc. I asked a very similar question of the Honda Fit community years ago and learned that the Japanese company Swift Sports made a set of springs that barely lowered the car but greatly improved the handling feel for $250 or so. I think the TC is low enough, maybe too low for the bumpy roads leading to camping locations I'm considering. So lower isn't the goal but firmer, sportier would be great. Same for upgraded damping. Same for stiffening the rear beam suspension. Because no sane person would ever bother, I custom made a sway bar for my Honda Insight using CroMo square tubing and custom "muffler clamps" to attach to the rear beam. I'd much prefer to find something already built so I can focus on camper build more. This mod sharpened up the steering feel nicely and didn't noticeably increase ride harshness. I'm aware of the Bilstein B6 option but haven't heard from anyone who has installed a set. https://shop.redline360.com/products/bilstein-b6-suspension-strut-assembly-ford-transit-connect-2014-2021-front-driver-or-passenger-side Same for the Eibach lowering springs: https://shop.redline360.com/products/eibach-pro-kit-lowering-springs-ford-transit-connect-2014-2018-e10-35-028-02-22 I'm curious if the lowering springs could be paired with spacers to boost the ride height while stiffing the rate? Anyone know the OEM spring rates, dimensions? Thanks in advance for any advice, ideas, tips, links, etc. Joel

I used M10 rivnuts on my 2015 wagon to install a roof rail system without pulling the headliner. Holes need to be enlarged to 13mm and this was super fast with a step drill bit.

I've been very happy with my 1Up hitch racks. I have single, double and quad setups. Costly, heavy and overbuilt...but worth paying extra for I think. I have also hauled 2 100lb Sur Ron electric dirt bikes on the back of my Subaru Crosstrek.

I'm new here and picked up a 2015 FTC LWB wagon on Easter. It had no factory roof rack rails so I started the process of figuring that out so I can install an iKamper Skycamp 2.0 roof top tent. I wanted to install a track/rail system similar to the Thule and Yakima track systems rather than fixed pointing mounts. The professional rack installer companies I talked to were pretty unwilling to bid any job that requires touching the headliner. The quotes I got: $874 for Thule 53" aero bars, fixed 460R towers "ditch mounted" into OEM channels/mounting holes. 1.5 week lead time/appoinment $600 for Thule track "ditch" installed into the channel, *not* using OEM mounting holes but all new holes instead (which bugs me). + cost of towers, bars and a fit kit for tracks. 3.5 week lead time (cutting into my camping season!) Based on that discouraging info, I went to work on a DIY solution based on 80/20 1534-lite aluminum beam profile into the OEM channel using all of the OEM holes. Assuming I could handle the headliner part myself, I got started on the project right away and I already had the 80/20 material. It was my belief that the additional strength of the 80/20 beam profile would allow use of fewer (e.g. 5) fasteners than is typical for these types of track systems (which tend to use more, smaller fasteners and LOTS of drilling through high-tech steel). I've built many projects using 80/20 framing looked forward to a T-slotted TC. First problem to solve was drilling out the OEM holes/slots to 13mm for installation of M10 stainless rivnuts. I expected this to be a challenge due to the high strength steel being hard to drill. It was not a problem and drilling took just a few seconds per hole. Rivnuts installed very easily (my 1st project using them). No headliner removal needed. WOOT! I never even opened the door of the van during the whole install. After some prototyping how to drill/machine the extrusion to accommodate the 20mm head of the M10 flat head bolt, I fabricated my own rails using a drill press, 20mm drill bit, large countersink bit and a regular drill bit. I used clear window & siding sealant to seal the holes. Yakima t-nut hardware works out of the box. 10mm rivnuts into the existing roof holes eliminated the need to mess with the headiner I'm really happy w/the result--it's a longer (about 7'), stronger and more versatile track system than what was offered by the professional rack companies (or even Ford's OEM solution), looks decent to me, was cheaper and happened faster ( I'm done and my install appointment is still 2 weeks away). Now I'm ready to install the Yakima Skyline towers, Landing Pad 1 and Jetstream 60" bars so I can install a roof top tent. Final Cost: Under $200. 8020 1534-lite 8' extrusions cost $43 ea, so $86 for 2, $50 for a rivnut kit, $15 for stainless rivnuts, $15 for a 20mm drill bit, $13.50 for M10 flathead bolts, $8 for sealant. Shorter, less robust Yakima/Thule tracks are about this price. The labor to machine/install was quite a bit. Now that I've done it, the bars could be easily duplicated at an actual machine shop."