Leaderboard

So after just short of two months I finally received the rear disc brake spindles from the UK. It was roughly $100 for both the left & the right including the hubs as pictured and then roughly another $100 for shipping to the US from the UK using the third party forwarding service Skypax. So I am $200 into this rear disc brake conversion at this point with the first major piece to the puzzle in hand. I will probably just slowly try to acquire the remaining pieces & parts every few months as time and funds allow...I gave the spindles to a buddy of mine from work that does a lot of auto work himself to see if he could clean them up by media blasting them and maybe powder coat them to match the rest of my flipped rear axle from modyourconnect.

I'm new here and picked up a 2015 FTC LWB wagon on Easter. It had no factory roof rack rails so I started the process of figuring that out so I can install an iKamper Skycamp 2.0 roof top tent. I wanted to install a track/rail system similar to the Thule and Yakima track systems rather than fixed pointing mounts. The professional rack installer companies I talked to were pretty unwilling to bid any job that requires touching the headliner. The quotes I got: $874 for Thule 53" aero bars, fixed 460R towers "ditch mounted" into OEM channels/mounting holes. 1.5 week lead time/appoinment $600 for Thule track "ditch" installed into the channel, *not* using OEM mounting holes but all new holes instead (which bugs me). + cost of towers, bars and a fit kit for tracks. 3.5 week lead time (cutting into my camping season!) Based on that discouraging info, I went to work on a DIY solution based on 80/20 1534-lite aluminum beam profile into the OEM channel using all of the OEM holes. Assuming I could handle the headliner part myself, I got started on the project right away and I already had the 80/20 material. It was my belief that the additional strength of the 80/20 beam profile would allow use of fewer (e.g. 5) fasteners than is typical for these types of track systems (which tend to use more, smaller fasteners and LOTS of drilling through high-tech steel). I've built many projects using 80/20 framing looked forward to a T-slotted TC. First problem to solve was drilling out the OEM holes/slots to 13mm for installation of M10 stainless rivnuts. I expected this to be a challenge due to the high strength steel being hard to drill. It was not a problem and drilling took just a few seconds per hole. Rivnuts installed very easily (my 1st project using them). No headliner removal needed. WOOT! I never even opened the door of the van during the whole install. After some prototyping how to drill/machine the extrusion to accommodate the 20mm head of the M10 flat head bolt, I fabricated my own rails using a drill press, 20mm drill bit, large countersink bit and a regular drill bit. I used clear window & siding sealant to seal the holes. Yakima t-nut hardware works out of the box. 10mm rivnuts into the existing roof holes eliminated the need to mess with the headiner I'm really happy w/the result--it's a longer (about 7'), stronger and more versatile track system than what was offered by the professional rack companies (or even Ford's OEM solution), looks decent to me, was cheaper and happened faster ( I'm done and my install appointment is still 2 weeks away). Now I'm ready to install the Yakima Skyline towers, Landing Pad 1 and Jetstream 60" bars so I can install a roof top tent. Final Cost: Under $200. 8020 1534-lite 8' extrusions cost $43 ea, so $86 for 2, $50 for a rivnut kit, $15 for stainless rivnuts, $15 for a 20mm drill bit, $13.50 for M10 flathead bolts, $8 for sealant. Shorter, less robust Yakima/Thule tracks are about this price. The labor to machine/install was quite a bit. Now that I've done it, the bars could be easily duplicated at an actual machine shop."