Search the Community

2013 170,000 mi. 4 cyl. First I blew lower radiator hose at TEE and drained coolant while climbing grade with AC on. Towed to dealer. New lower & upper hose with coolant. NOT Thermostat. Then there was a noise when AC compressor turned on. That turned out to be a misaligned water pump pulley. Replaced pump, tensioner and belt. All work by dealer. Then ran ok up grade but when parked, idling and AC on, heated up to red mark on gauge. Drove several hundred feet and cooled down. Tried to repeat issue. After stopping a couple times it did it again. Cools down quickly with low speed drive or revving engine and HVAC turned to red/heat. Had Ford mechanic ride with his laptop. Ran fine up hill until parked it idling with AC on and quick heat up. Cooled down just driving 15-20mph to freeway. On way back to dealer at 70 mph downhill running cool with AC on, it goes back up to hot. Laptop said 253 Deg. F. Fans operating correctly whole time. Stayed hot. Pulled over. Shut it down to open hood. Reservoir 98% full burping air. Engine barely warm and you could put your fingers on radiator fins and barely warm. Cool air out of HVAC when turned to Red/Heat. After a bit Hot air finally came out of vents and gauge went to halfway. Dealer replaced thermostat and temp sensor. Still gets hot when idling st a stop light or parking spot. $1,700 later. They “think” coolant “gelled” and now They want to “throw” a new radiator and heater core for $2600 at it to see if that fixes it. Any suggestions? I want to hook up a garden hose up to radiator and heater core. See if either is restricted. I’ve heard of second thermostat by oil filter, seperate valve at thermostat and a CHT valve. Also I saw a “coolant bypass valve”. Any of those things gonna give me these bizarre symptoms? Thank you in advance for any help.