Nokay

Hey @arengant sorry for the delay I've been crazy busy - glad you figured it out, the key pad is the greatest thing Ford has ever done! For those following re: the suspension - I've had the rear shocks and body lift spacers sitting but zero time to install either. I keep thinking I'll have time and then something comes up but putting this on the list of things I need to do sooner than later. Realistically it will be a couple months but fingers crossed!

Haha! Safety first! ? I’ve been meaning to look at which slots I used (switched and constant) to document for future reference but I’ve been too busy - if anyone wants that info DM me. With class running another month or so I won’t get the shocks on till then but once I do I’ll post the results!

Hey everyone, Work and school have been crazy busy but I finally installed the rear view mirror/camera and thought I’d post some pics. I just used a couple fuse taps to the passenger fuse block since I didn’t have time to make my own fuse block...For anyone interested in doing the camera install I posted what camera and mount I got on the previous page. I chopped the extension of the mount off to get the mirror closer to the window (interference with the monster sun visors) and then had to make my own mount to go from the window mount to the camera itself (had to drop the mirror a little so the dash cam would clear the defrosting material). After finishing it I realized i had to shave the mount I made so that the dash cam would be at a good angle...??‍♂️ Super juiced on how well it works!!! The pics aren’t the best because of the compression but you get the idea. Regarding the suspension stuff: I decided to just build the shocks since I haven’t had time to pull the stock shock to dyno but hopefully I can get the shocks and TEMA body spacers done soonish ?

Hey everyone, I haven’t made any progress lately because I’ve been crazy busy but I’ve gathered almost all the parts for the shocks. On another note, not sure if this is the right place to put this but if anyone is interested in raising their seats I’ve got another 2” set (both front seats) with needed bolts (see attached picture). These are the same black phosphate 10.9 grade 75mm bolts @KevinRollin originally posted, made 2” x 2” Delrin for the spacers. DM if interested.

I was thinking coilover setup would be nice but annoying to adjust and then I'd have to compromise with it being too stiff or too light depending on what I had in the vehicle. I concluded that air would be the best. Since no one had posted in this thread before I just started using this thread to provide updates.

Great thinking @Fifty150!! ? @JustinVP That's my idea as well, camping, shuttles and/or putting a moto in I can just add a little air or remove as needed. I'd assume that they're the same shock size (from my research the rears are 18.3125") and for the passenger Ford just puts in different springs. I've been too busy with work and school, still waiting on parts still and have to experiment a little but to give you a hint - I won't be using a car strut/shock ? I saw your posts with TEMA body lift and have those on order as well. Those should be easy enough to install and do the rear shocks. Once I get more time I'm going to look into the Escape fronts you posted from that guys build and I'll see if I can build fronts as well! Good eye on the Transition but it's a Scout - I'm 5'6" and the Sentinel/29ers seem too tall for my riding style.

Thanks @MLB! Yeah...I’ve done less in other cars and then done more and it helped. I may end up insulating and making panels later for camping and just went all out so it’s super quiet in comparison to the toaster it was before. Because of my work I have a bit of an advantage than the average DIY person...I’ll post pics in this thread once I make some more progress ?

Action shots ☺️

Thanks @billet_@bellsouth.net! Good looks on the double sided automotive tape. Still waiting on the mirror bracket. I just made this if anyone else has a dog that likes to windsurf and slips all over the plastic door panel. It slip fits between the door panel and window and then I just store it under the seat when she’s not with me. She’s only 15 lbs so I just used some crazy adhesive my friend had, shaped foam to contour to the door panel and wrapped it in speaker material and cloth.

@Fifty150 - Good looks on that as well! Still contemplating what to do for electrical. Ideally I’d make have an extra battery with inverter setup so I can charge my Sur Ron and other other electronics while camping and have the ability to run lights.

@billet_@bellsouth.net - how did you mount the rear camera? Thanks for the insight about the mirror cam v. Screen. I wanted to keep the stock mirror look because of theft where I live so hopefully it’s not too small. @Fifty150 - Good looking out. I’ve been thinking about fuse box along with a set of rocker switches but I’m going to hold off on any electrical till I figure out what I want after a few trips. Until then I have battery jumper, battery packs and a cigarette power battery inverter if need be. I haven’t had much time lately to do any work on the van or shocks but I’m hoping I can get some built in the next couple weeks.

@Fifty150 haha those builds are pretty crazy! I’ve been contemplating building it out more extensively but the toy hauler as is works well for my needs. I saw your post on the USB ports and I’ll probably to do something similar as the USB port in the back of the center console isn’t so convenient. Also considered some in the blank insert to the left of the reverse warning button but was thinking of trying to get seat warmers and adding the buttons there. @sKiZo I’m considering a battery/inverter setup with outlets, switches and USB ports in the rear eventually as well. My van doesn’t have the rear AJB so I’ll have to run another line to the back through the grommet I ran the power line for my sub through. For now I’m just using these rechargeable Magnetic LED lights since I have many other things that are taking priority. Oh! Also adding this Dash cam/rear camera mirror so I can have a “full time rear view mirror.” I see a wire coming from the headliner to the plastic that holds the normal rear view mirror for passenger van so I’ll update my findings when I get it installed - just waiting on this mirror holder to arrive in hopes for a relatively clean install.

Thanks @jrm223! I saw your post of using a futon frame to go over your removed floor. Very nice and good to know you can chop a full size bed in half to fit nicely. @B0NE - The cop caps are for 5x114 PCD where our wheels are 5x108 so I bent the tabs and they hold great. Definitely have to use a screwdriver to pry them off so I’m not worried about them flying off. @Fifty150 - haha! Now that the floor is done I’m going to hold off on any other major building for a bit. Just the rear shocks and body lift - I’ll update here again when I get that done.

It says I can’t upload more than 10MB so I’ll try to upload more another time. I trimmed the floor portion from above last pic a little more to fit the stock side step and also used a router so that the sidestep is flush to the floor. Super stoked on how strong and clean this came out. I may cover it in fabric like some speakers have or I may stain it since. The wood contrasting to the aluminum would look dope!

With this post and the one I posted in brakes/suspension not getting responses I will just post updates to my build here. Feel free to move mods. Raised the front seats with 2” delrin spacers that my friend helped make since he’s significantly better at machining than I am and I’ve been crazy busy, sub under drivers seat, added the 2nd row single seat, A/T tires (215/65/16 Falken - Wildpeaks) and rebuilt the false floor with an access hatch (same friend helped chop the legs and make the adjustable feet). I wanted to reclaim the space under the false floor and it needed to be strong enough to put motos in. We used the stock L bracket that the original floor was bolted to and dropped it down so that the new floor is flush to the rear and also bolts into said L bracket. Using pocket screws I attached a front piece so things don’t go in or out the front of the floor area. I didn’t put it under as there is more than enough support using the extrusion and it gave me a little more space. I figured out the stock rear strut length and am in the process of building some shocks. Hoping I can pull the stock strut soon to dyno match the compression curve so I can install it once and have a great tune. Going with an air shock to be able to pump it up when hauling a moto and/or other gear for trips and take air our when not hauling heavier loads. I also ordered the TEMA 30mm spacer kit. I did a few other small things but I’ll stop boring myself. Here’s some pics.

Greetings! This is my first post being new to the forum (technically 2nd as I posted this in the Brakes/Suspension category) and van ownership but have been scouring the forum since I purchased it a few weeks ago. A few weeks ago I bought a 2018 Transit Connect Cargo LWB 2.5L with 16,5xxx miles and I can't believe it took so long to get myself a van! I live in California and regularly ride mountain bikes and surf and it is so convenient to not have to take my gear out of the van all the time or be worried about my gear if I grab food or go into the store for something. I will eventually build it out for trips/camping but I need the storage for a bit so for now I have: Added hitch and bike rack Added drapes Put sound damping material everywhere except the floor and above the headliner (for now) have 2 more boxes to add A few cargo nets for simple storage New speakers/tweeters (thanks Donridley for speaker post/how remove door panels) Cop center cap conversion haha Added keyless entry pad (crucial for riding or surfing to not have to bring my keys) - For my 2018 I used P/N - KB3Z-14A626-A - took awhile to figure out how to program but worth the 30 minutes it took Coming soon: Remove false floor, add 2nd row single seat from 60/40 split and rebuild false floor with hatch to access storage on the side where there isn't a seat (1st saw Mikechell and Donshockley's posts - thanks guys!) Adding a sub under drivers seat and bringing seats up 2" (thanks to Kevinrollin for adding bolt length and spacer post) - I've been super busy so my friend helped me (plus he's an actual machinist) and made 2" x 2" delrin spacers and got the right bolts Larger A/T tires for clearance and in hopes to not get stuck This leads me to my question regarding the rear shocks - does anyone know the eye to eye length and mounting hardware width and bolt diameter?? It seems the MK1 and MK2 rear shocks are different as MYK has MK1 and MK2 specific rears - is this correct? My coworker made some rears for his MK1 so I have a dyno curve to match and I've searched but can't find any info..I want to make some shocks and don't want to have to pull my shocks and then make some. Thanks for any insight into this and thank you all for your all your various posts and information as it has been invaluable!

If anyone has replaced their fronts with new assemblies and still has their old one's I'd love to get my hands on them. PM me if you do!

Greetings! This is my first post being new to the forum and van ownership but have been scouring the forum since I purchased it a few weeks ago. A few weeks ago I bought a 2018 Transit Connect Cargo LWB 2.5L with 16,5xxx miles and I can't believe it took so long to get myself a van! I live in California and regularly ride mountain bikes and surf and it is so convenient to not have to take my gear out of the van all the time or be worried about my gear if I grab food or go into the store for something. I will eventually build it out for trips/camping but I need the storage for a bit so for now I have: Added hitch and bike rack Added drapes Put sound damping material everywhere except the floor and above the headliner (for now) have 2 more boxes to add A few cargo nets for simple storage New speakers/tweeters (thanks Donridley for speaker post/how remove door panels) Cop center cap conversion haha Added keyless entry pad (crucial for riding or surfing to not have to bring my keys) - For my 2018 I used P/N - KB3Z-14A626-A - took awhile to figure out how to program but worth the 30 minutes it took Coming soon: Remove false floor, add 2nd row single seat from 60/40 split and rebuild false floor with hatch to access storage on the side where there isn't a seat (1st saw Mikechell and Donshockley's posts - thanks guys!) Adding a sub under drivers seat and bringing seats up 2" (thanks to Kevinrollin for adding bolt length and spacer post) - I've been super busy so my friend helped me (plus he's an actual machinist) and made 2" x 2" delrin spacers and got the right bolts Larger A/T tires for clearance and in hopes to not get stuck This leads me to my question regarding the rear shocks - does anyone know the eye to eye length and mounting hardware width and bolt diameter?? It seems the MK1 and MK2 rear shocks are different as MYK has MK1 and MK2 specific rears - is this correct? My coworker made some rears for his MK1 so I have a dyno curve to match and I've searched but can't find any info..I want to make some shocks and don't want to have to pull my shocks and then make some. Thanks for any insight into this and thank you all for your all your various posts and information as it has been invaluable!