bud_4z0

Update: I got a new Dash Control Unit (DT1Z-19980-B). I went to install it and the new Battery was DEAD sitting at 8v... I had started it 2 days ago... Looks like the BCM is BAD! I used a contact-less power meter and found there was a 6 amp constant draw, that peaked randomly at 11 amps. I traced it to the BCM. unplugged each cable bundle until I found the harness responsible. Looking for a diagram of what that pin-out is. Plug labeled "C6 Engine" . What ever it is eliminating the Dash module was cheaper than going to a FORD dealer to have them tell me the same thing.

I too just had this Issue... 2016 TC XLT My battery died (MOTOCRAFT OEM) and leaked all over, then after I painstakingly put in a new battery into that stupid clip front box, the a/c and heat wouldn't work, the damper and vent select wouldn't work either. The Blower fan and speed selector still works though. Checked codes with my $70 scan tool, nothing, so I had a shop check codes with their $5000 scan tool... NADA Continuity checked every fuse in the Van, all were good, no open circuits none shorted either. My TC also had a 7.5A fuse in 71 where a 10A is listed.. Stumped the shop, they think it *may be* the control module, the A/C heat & damper are likely not a strait through connection whereas the Blower probably is. The only conclusion I can think of is the Battery was at 8-11v before I swapped it out. The temp selector had been left on MAX/AC so maybe the under-voltage shorted the controls out..!? I REFUSE to go to FORD dealership to diagnose it... Those limey bast*rds would probably charge me more than a I'd spend on 4 trips to Colorado just to tell me to replace fuse block or add Blinker Fluid.