batman

Thanks everyone. I managed to get them off this evening and my only real complain is that after the sun went down it dropped into the low 20s. So...here is what I did: I stopped by Napa after work and picked up a 1 1/16 12 point socket (Evercraft CR-V). They let me take several SAE sockets out and see which one got me the parent tool to manipulate. I decided on the 1 1/16 as i figured it would be easier to grind the outside of the socket rather than the inside. I ended up grinding both so maybe you could get by with a 1 inch 12 point too. You'd just be grinding the inside of the socket more as the outside was the right diameter to slip inside the lug nut recess. The 1 1/16 is 35mm wide. It looks like you need it around 32mm to slip in the aluminum rim lug nut recess. I ground the outside down with the flat side of an angle grinder cut-off disk. Worked pretty well and was pretty quick. Then I took a dremel with a quarter inch grinding stone and rounded out the pointy recesses opposite the 12 points (refer to the pics attached). This basically opened up the inside some and made the 12 points a slight bit sharper, but smaller. I played around a bit making sure not to take off to much as I was certain that these were not going to come off easy and I'd be applying some real torque to them. I tapped the socket onto the locking lug nut, the one with the acorn cap broken off and welding residue, and applied some slow torque with a 3 foot 1/2 inch breaking bar. The first attempt slipped right off the lug nut. I tried again after pounding it on a bit harder...I had the first one off pretty quick. i inspected the socket as it's pretty thin and didn't want to split it. The second, which also had the acorn busted off, had a slightly tighter lug nut recess so back to the angle grinder. After that, the second one came off with a bit more pressure. The last two still had the acorn caps on them which I determined were mentally getting in the way of the socket (they really should not) so I used a 8 point 3/4 to pull off the stainless sleeve and a 12 point 3/4 to break off the cap itself. Then I repeated the process: tap on the modified socket enough to feel like i got about 1/8 of bite and slow pressure with the breaking bar. Both came off equally as easy but I really feel the breaking bar was applying some real solid torque. Anyway, I hope this helps someone. looking back, this isn't super hard but there isn't much room to work. None of the "thin-walled" sockets I tried were usable but possibly investigating metric sockets would be worth it. Thanks again everyone.

Thanks desert... and dino... Yeah, my efforts will likely go down the 12 point socket route if i can find one in the area of the correct size. Grinding off the unnecessary points is a good plan. I can't seem to locate a lug nut removal tool big enough to get close to the OD of these lug nuts. The ones that get close are super thick walled and I might be able to grind the outside down a but to make it fit. At this point, It's not likely going to be an simple or pretty removal. With just a little more space this would be simple. Kudos to Ford, these things aren't meant to come off without the tool...so much so that three dealers have turned me away at the premium rate. Thanks for the tips all! Dan

DonShockly, Also, if I can ask, could you measure the outside diameter of the locking lug nut please? The OD of the widest portion. If I need to make some sort of tool, that would be super helpful in getting me a parent tool to manipulate. Thanks again! dan

Thank you, kind sir! The image with the cap is what they look like prior to attempting to remove with a universal lug nut socket (for those who might be interested in this tread and not sure if it applies to them). As you can see in the "without" picture, the cap (which actually has a stainless sleeve over it) has been broken off in the process. Looking at how little metal actually holds that cap on, and the type of metal, I'm guessing this is what they intend to happen when trying to circumvent the proper tool. Best I can figure based on some Euro websites, ford uses colors to designate the different patterns for these sockets. Several people mention an "orange" or "yellow" paint blotch either on the plastic bag the tool comes in or on the tool itself. It's really tight in there between the lug nut and the rim well...and it's just about too far recessed to weld though I think the dealer tried to do that at one point...it didn't stick. Thanks a bunch for checking... Dan

Hi all, has anyone lost lost their key/socket for removing the locking lug nuts? Is their an easy path forward? Bought the tc used, the key is missing and no one is claiming responsible. The dealer(s) say its aftermarket which the Internet says they are not. Sold as is, so they don't feel like dealing with it. Tires changed prior to previous owner trading in- Costco says "we have a box of those keys- just come down and see if yours is here" but they are 5-6 hrs away. So fare the g/f has taken this to several tire shops with no luck. The dealer(s) are clueless which blows my mind. They indys offer to drill out the stud. They tried welding to the nut after breaking off the alloy acorn, no luck. Dealership says we would need some code to replace it and that takes weeks. And we have no code... Space between the locking nut and rim is too tight for any standard socket or removal socket to get in there. So any tool needs to be specific or real close tolerances. Thoughts? Mysterious tools I'm overlooking? Black magic? ...anything??? thanks, it's really frustrating and although this is to put winter tires on...if it were a flat I'd be beside myself at this point... dan

Thanks All, Does anyone see any issues with the backspacing (8mm negative - 42 vs. 50 on the orignials) on a rim that's 1/2" less wide on the van? Thanks!

Thanks Don, I read someplace that aluminum rims may not have enough room for the TPMS if they weren't originally cast to accept them (around the valve stem, interior of the rim). Some castings show that recess, it appears. Thanks!

Hi all, So I'm looking for info or advice on using early 2000s Taurus rims on a 2014 TC with TPMS. These will be used in the winter with likely the same size tires that are currently on the TC. I haven't seen the rims (16 inch like the current 2014 rims) but they have a +42 offset (vs a +50 for the factory TC) and are 6 inch wide (vs. the 6.5 on the TC). They don't have TPMS on them and it doesn't appear they are notched in any way to suggest one could easily be added- but I'm not certain. A local friend who works at a corporate tire franchise said that for his company, those rims wouldn't throw up a red flag other than if there were no TPMS. So my questions are: Has anyone tried to use these rims or a similar 16 inch rims successfully and has anyone run rims without TPMS, and if so what is expected? Thanks!

hello all, My significant other picked up a 2014 TC titanium as her primary driver and although i steered her clear for some time, I'm truly impressed with it so far. As winter approaches I'm going to be picking folk's brains about use of older rims for snow tires, In particular aluminums from a Taurus. I'm new to the TPMS so that's where I'm currently hung up. Anyway, just dropping in to say hi, I'll post my questions accordingly. Thanks!