Mita

UPDATE ! I thought it would be good to post the latest for all interested parties. Been trying to juggle looking at the van around work hence the slow update. I re installed the PCM this morning. I then cleaned up several grounds that were awful. Confident this was my issue I put it all back together, turned the key and ..... NOTHING!! :( So I tried each sensor by unplugging individually but again no joy. So next I decided to have a proper look inside and underneath the engine fuse box. I noticed one of the cables by the moulded plug had a green powder on it. Knowing copper turns green when it oxidises gave me new hope. On closer inspection the cable was split and it was just the insulation holding it there. I traced the cable back to the fuse board (it was black and orange) and would you believe it was for the power up relay (R8) . Unfortunately the cable broke right at the moulded plug. So I cut back the loom slightly and crimped a plug in to the cable. I then ran a new cable from there in to the fuseboard and cut the black and orange cable from the relay. I then crimped in a plug there and connected. So effectively I've by passed the moulded plug and made my own . Put it all back together and it's started! Hopefully this thread will prove useful in the future for others. Many thanks for all the help from everyone who posted .

I will do i really hope hope I get to the bottom of it, it's been a great van. Ha ha yes euros could soon be obselete!

I've also been advised to disconnect one sensor at a time and see if I get my mileage back or the engine cranks. Will try this too carefully. Would rule out a rouge sensor causing the PCM to shut down?

Ok will do as said the grounds in the bay are awful. I did see a you tube vid on a focus that had a bad ground in the bay and once cleaned it was fine. Symptoms are identical to mine so fingers crossed

PCM is out and nothing visually damp or bad. Ive had literally half an hour free today. I'm off Tuesday so will get to work on the grounds. The 2 by the battery under the air box snorkel are rusty as hell so that's the first stage. Another idea has occurred to me. I appreciate I have to find the fault. But looking on e bay I can but an "ECU kit" which includes PCM, transponder box , transponder ring, 2 keys and all barrels. I'm thinking this would eliminate not only a PCM fault but also an imobiliser one? If I get much more stuck I'm considering it? Any opinions? And also does the Connect require the clocks for communication with the PCM or is that 2006 onwards? Many thanks

Also I plan on taking my PCM out of its box and checking for any damp or mould. As long as I don't get any static discharge is this a good idea?

Hi MRTN thanks for the reply. I just noticed you commented on another thread regarding a door lock issue. I have a theory and wondered what you thought? Is the immobiliser linked also to the door locks? In other words when you un lock the van it flashes the hazards and de immobilises the van? I have a sticky handle / mechanism on my drivers side door. Sometimes it won't lock or un lock or open! I need to check if it flashes the hazard lights on lock or un lock. But let's say it doesn't could this be a problem? So I'm getting in to my van and it's still imobilised? Or once the key goes in the ignition it should do the same thing anyway? Am I making sense?

One question, is it ok to remove the ECU/PCM and open it up and check for damp etc? I assume the PCM is the same as the ECU!? It's the box behind the dash on the right side of the van

Thank you again for all your help Lets hope its a ground issue

Thank you thats a great link I'm assuming the main grounds to check are in the bay? Or should I look everywhere?

Ahh ok thats fair enough. I think my next thing is to go over all grounds and clean up connections?

Also is it worth changing the ignition switch? And is it plug and play?

BTW one other thing is I'm not sure if the hazards flash when I lock and un lock now? Will need to check , but if they don't thats pointing in the direction of immobiliser?

I have 2 (blue) coded keys, thats what I've always had for the past 7 years no issue. Ive not used the fob now for around 5 years so I unlock and lock doors with the key. Yes I've put them in contact and held for 30 seconds If I was to buy a new ignition switch would that be plug and play? And would it be worth a shot? I'm going to clean all grounds I can find as they're all looking pretty rusty and dirty. All fuse connections are fine and clean

I'm also wondering if its a bad ground? They all look pretty rusty to be honest and its certainly a new thing since its been sat? I will give them all a clean up as I'm thinking this may be another issue too?

One thing which may or may not be of use?? My drivers side door handle is sticking, i have to bang it for it to work, sometimes the key won't lock or un lock that door and i have to un lock passenger side? Would this send the immobiliser funny?

Hey mate, I have done that, it re set the odometer and it was reading the mileage again so I thought it had worked! But once I turned the key it went back to -------- and the same problem - No crank :(

Ive looked at the manual on Ford UK. Its starting to sound like an immobiliser problem? Its states - DISARMING THE ENGINE IMMOBILISER  The engine immobiliser is disarmed automatically when you switch the ignition on with a correctly coded key. The indicator in the instrument cluster will come on for approximately three seconds and then go out. If the indicator stays on for one minute or flashes for approximately one minute and then repeatedly at irregular intervals, your key has not been recognised. Remove the key and try again. If you are unable to start the engine with a correctly coded key, this indicates a malfunction. Have the immobiliser checked immediately. --- My indicator just flashes as if the van is locked, it doesn't come on to solid when I insert key nor does it flash at irregular intervals. It just stays flashing at 3 second intervals. I have left it like this for well over a minute more like 5 minutes with ignition on and nothing changes? So it seems like the key isn't being recognised??

Sorry for delay. Battery run out on phone! I'm d loading manual now hopefully. No mould or visible damp in either box. I looked at ECU behind glove box and externally it's ok

Scan tool lit up and had power. Are the hand held ones battery operated? Or do they just take power from the OBD port ?

No leaks but it was in very humid conditions as there is mould on the seats and on dash in places. Not terrible but it's there

Ok thank you. Once I have the manual what's my next step? Appreciate your help mate

All fuses are ok

2005 connect , engine is a 1.8L DURATORQ-TDDI (LYNX) DIESEL  I . I have a Haynes manual but that's it

I have checked them all visually but not with a continuity tester. I can do that next?