Chip

My ‘21 has warning beepers that chirp when I’m reversing toward solid objects. There is also an annoying crash avoidance system, so there must be a sensor at the front of the vehicle. After recently driving a couple hours on some very dusty dirt roads, I message appeared to let me know the crash avoidance system was disabled due to the sensor being clogged. I have a basic, steel-box, nothing fancy, model, so I’d be surprised if there are 21s without the sensors.

I compared the black/red connector in my '21 to the schematic from Don S. I may not be reading the schematic correctly, but it appears I have no wire at pin 10. So, I'm in search of guidance on what wire opens the lift gate latch.

Since you only want the mattress for occasional use, why not consider an air mattress? Connects are real cozy and there's not a lot of extra space. With the trifold, too much of the space must be dedicated to the mattress. There are air mattresses designed to fit between the wheel wells and some have a built-in pump so are a snap to deploy (inflate), and they fold down to a small space when not in use.

I'm trying to install a switch on the inside of the lift gate of my '21, so I can open it from inside. I just want a switch on the inside of the door itself. My black/red connector box looks the same as pws'. The two Don's and OP (too hard to type pws-autocorrect doesn't like it) had to spend a lot of time figuring this thing out. But the solution is simple, correct? Install a switch between the wires using pin 7 & 10, and that's all, correct? Don R notes a 5.7 volt power source (pin 7?). I'll confirm that's what I have, too. A question about that switch--triggering the momentary switch connects, momentarily, the wires at 7 & 10, correct. That breaks the logic state... then what happens? The BCM tells the latch to open? And what happens to the diverted power--does it just run to ground? That's not normally good, is it? What does "jump pins" and install a "jumper" mean in the context of this thread?

I guess I’m a slow one. I thought this forum dead and gone. I mourned the loss. I just did an internet search and the forum came up in the results. I thought “dead link,” but Wu who, here it is. I’m glad it’s back. Who runs this forum? There are ads, so I guess somebody is getting paid something. Who is it? how did people learn it was back? Just kept trying to hit the URL?

I am driving a '21 cargo van, and don't really know the answer to your question. However, I often wished I started with a passenger van because I *think*, again, don't really know, the wagon would be quieter. Additionally, the passenger version has to be better outfitted with creature comforts. I say "has to be," because the cargo version is just a steel box. The cargo vans have a false floor where the second row seats are in the passenger version. So, after removing your seats, you will not have a continuous deck behind the driver. Some users of this forum have installed their own false floor leaving access to the space under the deck for additional storage, so you could always to that, too. I *think* it not difficult to install tie-down hooks, but haven't done it. Seat removal will probably leave some sturdy, threaded holes where the seats connected, which would be good points for your tie-downs. Does the passenger version have airbags in the back? If so, what will you do with those?

Not sure how difficult it is to replace the line, but a complicating factor is the entire system will need to have the air removed before replacing the refrigerant. Due to this complication, I don’t even consider working on AC. The need for special tools to connect a vacuum pump for pumping down the system always stopped me from my normal DIY approach. disclaimer: it’s been many years since I tried AC work. Maybe things have changed.

Don Ridley, thanks for that list! I had used the forum search but did not turn up your post on the liftgate latch. I hope I find similar pin configs beneath the panel on my ‘21. Preparing that list with links to more detailed descriptions of mods, and the original descriptions, represent significant efforts, which I greatly appreciate. Thanks!

I’d like to be able to open the liftgate while inside the vehicle. If anyone has installed a switch for opening the liftgate from inside the van, please post about how you did it. I’m sure the answer lies somewhere in Don’s wiring diagram, but I have trouble translating from diagrams to “cut this wire, splice in switch.” Thanks in advance.

I’d observed that S&S works differently on 90+ days, suspected cold temps might have an impact, and figured it wouldn’t trigger before the engine was warm. Most of my driving is in Maryland, where temps trend toward moderate, and is the same as when S&S more regularly functioned. I hadn’t considered the battery, which maybe is weakening after two years. Will have to check that out. My use of accessories is mostly limited to radio and cell phone, which I wouldn’t consider a heavy load. I’m not so concerned that I want to take it to the shop, just curious to know what’s going on.

My 21 Connect has the feature that should shut the engine off when the vehicle stops. It did this regularly for the first year, but now it goes through spells where it works. These spells are getting shorter and mostly it doesn’t shut the engine off. I was never convinced the shut downs saved that much fuel, so I’m not too concerned. Still, I wondered if other members have similar experience, and whether it’s not due to user error of some sort. I know there is a button on the console to disable the feature, and I haven’t touched that. any ideas?

Every once in a while, the display on my 21 Connect flashes a message about connecting to the vehicle’s hot spot. Is anyone using the vehicle hot spot? Trying to figure out why I’d want to do that, since I can just use my phone. I suppose I’d have to sign the Connect up for a cellular plan. If you are using the hot spot, I’d be interesting in hearing about your experience.

Paraphrasing Dawes, I hope your Ford Connect runs forever and your favorite bands stay together.

That’s great news! I have a ‘21 and thought I read in my owners manual that the fob would deactivate itself if locked inside the vehicle more than 45 minutes. A deactivated fob would be no fun. So, I just never locked it while camping in it. I’m glad to know I can lock it. Thanks for posting.

Glad to know about the L channel. I originally tried a quick and dirty fork mount for carrying a bike. It didn’t work well at all and the bike would crash over during left turns. The bike clamp mounted to the side wall is way better, and your slab-mounted fork clamps look pretty solid, too. photo shows my first try

It isn’t something I want to add in my TC, but I really like Windguys’ rack, and appreciate the post. The space where I’d like to add a rack is over the driver and passenger seats, since that is just wasted airspace. I dream of raising the seats and having storage underneath. I don’t like the TC seats being down low, like in a hole. But there would be too many challenges to lifting the seats more than a few inches, so an overhead rack is the only way I can envision making use of all that space. Windguys’ photos show two vertical tubes near the middle of the rack, between the rack and the roof. Are those supports, and are they attached to the roof, and if so, how? Love the lighting! Is that wired to the existing light wires or a separate circuit? When camping in my van, I get annoyed by the interior light staying on after the doors are closed, so I like the idea of manually operated switch. That’s something I want to address—on my “when I get around to it” list. Good post—thanks.

Looks like it works! Are the fork mounts attached to L track? Not what I expected L track to look like. Do you have the mounting board attached to the van?

Sometimes if I just quit complaining and start doing… cleaning the window took some bending, twisting, upside-down elbow grease and stretched arms, but I got it done with regular windex and paper towels. Inside windows get a film on them that smears and is hard to get off. Always wondered what it is. It took two washes and polishing, but very nice to have clear vision, at least for now.

OP wants to mount L track at the “back” of the van, right? Seems like that would be right inside the rear doors or liftgate, so the passenger footwell doesn’t come into play. I do think between the vinyl mat and foam insulation beneath the mat, there is a half inch thickness he can cut out, and a utility knife will cut the material. I suggest lifting the mat up and putting something under the mat so as not to drag the knife on the metal floor. I’ve also used a red-hot putty knife to cut through thicker areas, but the utility knife can do it. What’s under the floor, I don’t know. I’m reluctant to make new holes that penetrate to the exterior of the van due to concerns about rust- and weather-proofing. Suggest discovering what’s under there prior to screwing down the L track. An alternative to screwing could be using epoxy to secure the L channel.

After 16 months and 25,000 miles, I really need to wash the windshield on the inside. I’ve been dreading and avoiding this task, unsure how I’m gonna reach way up front over the front-lawn size dashboard. But, gotta be able to see. I’d be interested to know if anybody has any hints for cleaning inside windshield, beyond windex and paper towels. I’m surprised that search didn’t turn up any threads on this topic. Am I the only one thinking this is a daunting task? I know, I know, just quit complaining and go do it.

This is about the humble step found inside cargo-Connect sliding doors. Do we really need it? What's inside the passenger version? I removed the step at the sliding door entry when I took the plunge under the cargo deck, and haven't had that step for over a month now. I don't miss it. I need to put something there to make it look more finished, but I don't plan to reinstall the factory step. I sometimes stand in that space while I'm tying gear on the roof. If I keep standing on it I think I'll eventually destroy the weather stripping, so it may be I just need to install a board there. But I really don't know what to do with that space. I've fashioned deck boards I can lay over the opening created after I opened up the cargo deck. When I do so, I like the continuation of the deck over the space where the step was. With the slider open, I like being able to sit at deck level with my butt where the step used to be, and it is more flat space. I used the steps when they were there. I think I even stepped on them. But I don't really step into the van. Usually take a knee. I'm over six feet. It's not like I can walk around inside the van. The steps were a good place to store water jugs, and I used to throw my shoes in there when I camped in the van. Do you think I'll miss the step if I eliminate it? What do you do with that space?

A bike is an unwieldy thing to keep in the van. I think about getting a folding bike, but IMO, they are not as fun to ride as a full size bike. I use a wall mount system to hold the bike to one side of the van. I’ve been working on a bed rack on the other side of the van. I pack my gear in milk crates, and the crates hold up the bed.

Team worker: nice install. Looks clean and simple. building in an arch seems like a great idea, has it worked out? If you have time, could you share: 1. How’d you attach the angle to the side walls, and can you still get your jack out? 2. I have a similar shelf in the passenger side, rear, blind, window cavity. Mine are attached to the wall with sheet metal screws. What’s holding yours on? 3. Is your fan powered by the van battery?

There's a reason to build with plywood. It's fast and very efficient. I might be done my project by now if I'd used plywood. Instead, I'm working with walnut lumber I had milled from a tree over 20 years ago. It takes a little longer when you start with rough-cut lumber and need to join boards to form a panel you could have just cut from plywood. I cut off about five inches of the big foam blocks that are under the seats. Near as I can figure the foam made up the support for the second row passenger's feet, so it must have some structural value. I sliced the foam to match the profile of the side-to-side beam and laid it on the bottom to support my floor boards. I'm going to stuff the empty spaces with foam peeled off the floor padding. With sound deadening mat, it's already getting quieter. I debated reusing the front-of-deck beam. I would have had to cut off the deck flooring and would be left with a jagged metal edge flange. The way Ford spot welded that beam, I would have needed to retain a one inch flange, because that's where the welds are. I decided to build a wood beam instead. It should look nice if I ever get around to varnishing it. I sandwiched a piece of oak lumber I had around between two pieces of walnut. That oak was very heavy, which is why the beam weighed 22 pounds! So, I am progressing, slowly. I left 3/4" lips on the beam and the rear side of my foot-well, so that I can add sheets of wood to span the opening. That way, if I want a full deck, I can have it, and I'll build in some grips for picking up the lid and getting to the under storage. I was planning to reuse a piece of the floor mat to cover the center hump (exhaust pipe tunnel), but found that the material was hard to work with. I ended up just putting a layer of 10mm insulation and carpet over the hump. Photos: 1. joining pieces of walnut to for the new floor 2. the opening with sound-deadening mat installed 3. Ford's beam and attached flooring were fabricated in a way that would have left an unwanted flange 4. Glueing up wood for a replacement beam 5. Current status Work remains to install a footstep entry and finish from the floor to the footstep. Also, make pieces to form hatches over the top.

JackG, I like the way you recaptured that curved depression next to the rear door post. You took a largely useless space and made something out of it. I see you reused the door threshold/step-in. I've been thinking of replacing the threshold with a 5" wide board, but might end up with pieces of the original threshold, like you did. I'm shooting to put in a floor such as yours. I've got some boards cut to length that I will join to make the deck. The deck will be bolted to the holes for the seat mounts, if I can ever score some M10 bolts of proper length, and will rest on pieces of foam salvaged from the foam pads that fit under the seats. Those 4" thick rigid pads extend almost all the way back to the second row. I'd be interesting in hearing from anybody who has been under the floor mats of a second row passenger seats. It looks to me like the factory pad, with the inch layer of foam under it, lies right on top of the foam pads the extend from under the front seats. So all passengers stand on, as much as they stand, is the pad/foam on a block of foam. I'm assuming that the blocks of foam are okay for weight bearing. I'm salvaging chunks of that foam to fit under, and support, my floor boards. Seems flimsy. We'll see. At least it provides more sound insulation, too. The original, cargo-van deck is supported in front by a bridge beam that runs side-to-side, immediately behind the front seats. I go back and forth between reusing that beam or building a wood replacement beam. To reuse the beam, I'd have to cut off the 10-12" of decking attached to the top, and that would leave an ugly metal flange (it's spot welded on the flange, so you need it) sticking rearward about an inch. It might be easier and I think will provide a better result to use the original support beam as a pattern for a wood replacement, and I think I will move in that direction. With a wood build, can add in a recessed lip to catch a deck/hatch piece that extends to the original deck. There are only two bolts holding in the bridge beam.