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On 2/10/2020 at 11:09 PM, Fifty150 said:

Those bolts are the correct thread?  

Got the bolts today.  They’re the right pitch, and screw in easily to the tiedown anchor holes which are the same as the seats.  Too late tonight, but hopefully Friday I’ll get to put the lift on my driver seat.  

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Huh. Been reading up - does the "tank trip" reading reset automatically when you fill the tank?

 

(never mind - a bit more reading, and it looks like you have to hit the little red button before filling up.)

Edited by sKiZo

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10 hours ago, sKiZo said:

Huh. Been reading up - does the "tank trip" reading reset automatically when you fill the tank?

 

(never mind - a bit more reading, and it looks like you have to hit the little red button before filling up.)

I'm trying to figure out what this "tank trip" reading is. "Miles to empty" is one of the few things I use on the info display and even that rarely when I'm trying to stretch to where I know the gas is cheapest. It does automatically adjust when you put gas in, no reset required. Maybe the two are the same thing?

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He's probably referring to the tripmeter, at the bottom of the dash display. Hold the button in for 4-5 seconds to reset it. Fun fact, when a TC G2 says "0 miles to empty", it does still have a fair reserve (not that I recommend using it!) - enough to go about 35-40 miles at 70-75 MPH, lol. Hey, it was 2am and I'm in rural Texas - so that drive only went through like 2 little podunk towns, lol. Ran out just 2 blocks from home and had to walk for my gas can, then filled up first thing in the morning. 

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From their website. Looks like I have to tell it when I fill the tank though ...

 

"Computer? Just filled the tank. Computer??"

Or just push the red button I guess.  <G>

 

~ ~ ~

 

The ScanGauge includes two trip computers based on the current tank of fuel. They include the Current Tank and Tank to Empty. Each trip computer starts automatically when you tell ScanGauge you have filled your tank.

  • MPG for current tank
  • Fuel Used on current tank
  • Tank to Empty
  • Distance Driven
  • Distance Until Empty
  • Hours driven on current tank
  • Hours to Empty
  • Average Speed
  • Fuel Used Cost

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9 hours ago, jrm223 said:

it was 2am and I'm in rural Texas

All my ex's live in Texas.

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It is possible to raise the front seats up 2” using easily-obtained parts with no drilling or machining.  
 
Is it safe?  That’s up to you.  I’m sure Internet Lawyers and Internet Engineers will be along shortly to debate it. I am neither of those.  
 
Here’s what you need:  
 
  • Zone Off Road 2” body lift blocks (4 per seat) 
  • M10x1.5 75mm class 10.9 steel screws/bolts
  • Torx T50 bit (to remove OEM seat bolts)
  • 15mm socket (to install new bolts)

C28B2086-1ACB-4CF5-B900-D9498D7795CE.jpeg

D3083E1D-1B56-45E1-81C8-2BC36515D632.jpeg

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Here’s how to do it:

  1. Lean your seat back forward so it centers the weight above the seat brackets. 
  2. Remove all 4 bolts holding the seat in place using the Torx T50 bit.  
  3. Miracle the seat into the air, or lean it forward/backward so that you can get the riser blocks under the seat brackets.  
  4. Insert the new bolts through the seat bracket and risers, installing finger-tight for now.  
  5. Once all bolts are in, tighten with the 15mm socket to the appropriate torque.  
  6. Enjoy your new legroom and enhanced view of the road!  

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Imade the mistake of trying to use a pair each of 2” diameter and 3” diameter blocks.  I was thinking more surface area would be more structurally sound, but they don’t really fit. Don’t do that!  A 3” block fits in the rear outboard position, but the floor underneath that one isn’t really contacting much more than 2” of it anyway.  The front brackets need to be notched out for 3” to fit, and then they don’t sit flush on the body metal because of the vinyl flooring.  2” all around fit easily.  

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B99FE168-8FDD-478B-B7A5-C90AA0982EBF.jpeg

Edited by KevinRollin

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On 2/13/2020 at 10:30 AM, jrm223 said:

He's probably referring to the tripmeter, at the bottom of the dash display. Hold the button in for 4-5 seconds to reset it. Fun fact, when a TC G2 says "0 miles to empty", it does still have a fair reserve (not that I recommend using it!) - enough to go about 35-40 miles at 70-75 MPH, lol. Hey, it was 2am and I'm in rural Texas - so that drive only went through like 2 little podunk towns, lol. Ran out just 2 blocks from home and had to walk for my gas can, then filled up first thing in the morning. 

Perhaps you should have gone 80-85 mph so the momentum would have gotten you the last 2 blocks. 😁

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2 hours ago, OLDSCHOOLFOOL said:

Nobody has mentioned the length of the stock bolt.

 

Which bolt?  The seat bolts?   About an inch.  A little over an inch.  Threaded portion IIRC was slightly less than an inch.  

 

I could measure tomorrow maybe. Do you have something in mind for the stock bolts?  

 

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8 hours ago, KevinRollin said:

 

Which bolt?  The seat bolts?   About an inch.  A little over an inch.  Threaded portion IIRC was slightly less than an inch.  

 

I could measure tomorrow maybe. Do you have something in mind for the stock bolts?  

 

 

No, just may not want to go up two inches. Maybe one inch. The length of the stock bolt is the starting point for determining the length of the replacement bolts. I cannot locate my Torx bit at the moment, otherwise I'd go ahead and pull one out to measure. Perhaps I should be a little more organized but the Torx bits are something I rarely, rarely use. At least not that large.

 

All that (unnecessary) crap around the instrument cluster can make it hard to see the speedo and such at different angles.

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1 hour ago, OLDSCHOOLFOOL said:

 

No, just may not want to go up two inches. Maybe one inch. The length of the stock bolt is the starting point for determining the length of the replacement bolts. I cannot locate my Torx bit at the moment, otherwise I'd go ahead and pull one out to measure. Perhaps I should be a little more organized but the Torx bits are something I rarely, rarely use. At least not that large.

 

All that (unnecessary) crap around the instrument cluster can make it hard to see the speedo and such at different angles.

I can see your point about 2” being too much.  There’s a 1.25” option using similar hardware and spacers. I’ll post it later.  

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1 hour ago, OLDSCHOOLFOOL said:

may not want to go up two inches. Maybe one inch.

1.25”: 

D3220C0B-B79E-4218-A20E-958B1AABEDB0.jpeg

These bolts should leave the same thread engagement as OEM with a 1.25” spacer.  

88102FDD-22C9-4364-ADAD-22C467601B39.jpeg

Edited by KevinRollin
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