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Always stick to (D) , never used the ( S ) mode.


herb
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Don't know about anybody else but i always just use my TC in (D) mode when driving , never bothered with the ability to shift manually .  I wonder if a lot of usage in the (S) mode and manual shifting could be linked in any way to early transmission failures ?

 

If the TC came with a real manual transmission with a clutch i would of bought one with that option because thats what i am used to and have always preferred , especially with my past 5.0 Stangs .

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1 minute ago, Fifty150 said:

 

 

Big difference from a 5.0 to a 2.5.

 

My Transit Connect replaced an Explorer with a 5.0.  Noticeable difference in performance.  But I can live with it.  

 I had a four banger with a stick , still like it a lot more than automatic.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I don't see why not.  It's like shifting any other automatic while in motion.  People downshift all the time.  Surely, the engineers anticipated that people would downshift while in motion, and the transmission must be designed to be able to do that. 

 

The engineers anticipate more than you think.  What if you are in full motion, at freeway speeds, and you accidentally shift into park or reverse?  What if you are fighting with your romantic partner for life, and the lever is bumped "accidentally"?  What if your dog bumps the shift lever?  Or you have a mischievous child in the car who thinks that you need help driving?

 

On MythBusters, they took a Crown Vic, with the old 4 speed 4RXXX style transmission which was common in a lot of Ford Lincoln Mercury Mazda products, and shifted into "P" at freeway speeds.  Check engine light came on.  But car did not come to a grinding halt.  Then with the car at freeway speeds, they shifted into "R", with the same results.  Transmission did not grind gears, blow up, and fall off.  Car kept moving forward.  MythBusters did not get an estimate at a transmission shop to tell everyone how much it would cost to fix the car.

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Yes. Switching modes activates different programming. The computer will not do anything harmful to the transmission. I found that S mode automatically downshifts during a steep descent (9% on a twisting mtn road). I only had to steer. The computer kept the speed under control.

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4 hours ago, PWFX said:

Question... If I'm in D and going down a hill... can I shift to S to get down shift capability?  Or is shifting on the fly like that not something to do?  

 

You can totally shift into S, it's what you're supposed to do to keep from cooking the brakes.

 

To quote from the manual, in manual S position:
* the transmission provides maximum engine braking.
* gears 1 through 6 are available.
* the driver can manually shift the transmission to gears 1 through 6 using the SelectShift™
switch located on the selector lever knob.
* grade assist is activated.
* the transmission will select gears that will provide the engine braking desired, based on the
vehicle inputs, this will increase engine rpm during engine braking.

 

In S, when you step on the brake the tranny will drop a gear to help with braking.  Use it anytime you're on a long  hill, unless you enjoy the aroma of hot brake pads and like paying for brake jobs.

 

 

 

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I have never encountered a need to use "S" mode in any driving conditions anywhere ,  no hills where i live at all and i never tow anything .  I would love to see TC's at the 100,000 mile mark with one never using the "S" mode and one that uses the "S" mode exclusively and compare the transmission woes that these specific transmissions seem to suffer with so much .

 

Failed transmissions are like the # 1 complaint with these vehicles on every forum .  Not saying the driving modes have anything to do with it but i would love to find out the why's of many failed transmissions on these vehicles.

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In 10+ years, the 6 speeds have had issues.  Now 8 & 10 speed transmissions are around the corner.  I wonder how those will turn out.

 

 

After decades, the 4 speeds are still out there. Aftermarket has stepped up with mods and shift kits to fix what the engineers designed poorly.  Remanufactured 4 speeds are better than the original.  Perhaps a transmission builder will find a solution.

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22 hours ago, Fifty150 said:

I don't see why not.  It's like shifting any other automatic while in motion.  People downshift all the time.  Surely, the engineers anticipated that people would downshift while in motion, and the transmission must be designed to be able to do that. 

 

On MythBusters, they took a Crown Vic, with the old 4 speed 4RXXX style transmission which was common in a lot of Ford Lincoln Mercury Mazda products, and shifted into "P" at freeway speeds.  Check engine light came on.  But car did not come to a grinding halt.  Then with the car at freeway speeds, they shifted into "R", with the same results.  Transmission did not grind gears, blow up, and fall off. 

True, engineers anticipate more these days than they used to, for sure

 

In the 'good old days' some auto trans shift selectors were different  -  'Reverse' was not up next to 'Park', but it was at the opposite end, just beyond 'Low', so you had to be a bit more careful  -  One time while driving a '56 Chevy V8 with Powerglide, while descending a hill at about 40 mph,  I tried shifting from 'Drive' down into 'Low' to use the engine to slow the car, but I went one click too far, into 'Reverse'  -  The transmission actually went into Reverse with much screeching and tire smoke as the wheels rotated in the wrong direction for a short time . . . . until the engine died.  Luckily it was an old cast iron Powerglide which were just about indestructible, so a quick shift into 'Neutral' (old cars would start in either Neutral or Park) and I got it going again while coasting down the hill and luckily, everything was fine  -  It wasn't my car.  I never drove (or owned) anything with an automatic back in the day.  Scared the heck out of me though, I can tell you that!!

 

Don

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Don't hold your breath.  The current F-150 uses a 6R80 transmission  6 speed, filled for life with Mercon LV..  BCA is already building them to heavy duty specs, as a replacement for where the OEM Ford transmission is weak.  Maybe if enough of you guys call over there, jam up their phone lines, and flood the e-mail inbox.....they may consider building a 6F35.  

 

large_62_6r80transm.jpg

BCA ULTIMATE 6R80 TRANSMISSION

SKU: BCA-6R80-ULT
Price: $2950.00
$2950.00
  • Exedy Stage 2 frictions
  • Billet intermediate shaft
  • Proven to 1200whp and above
  • Latest OEM internal components and electronics
  • OEM gaskets, filters, and seals
  • 2 year parts and exclusive BCA LIFETIME labor warranty
  • $1250 refundable core charge (refundable on return and inspection of core)

 

 

 

 

 

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Some of the things i have heard is to make absolutely certain your trans fluid is at the correct capacity which Ford doesn't allow apparently since there is no dip stick for checking the trans fluid .

 

But having the trans fluid level dip is a big no no from what i have read if you want to avoid transmission issues . The other thing i have heard is heavy towing can wreak havoc on the trans but who knows lol.

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Drive until your transmission fluid is warmed up, then check the level with the fill plug.  Add fluid until it starts coming out of the fill plug.  

 

I'm beginning to think that I may want to drain the pan & fill, with every 2 or 3 oil changes.  The more you drain & fill, the fresher the fluid will be.  

 

It's better to perform a complete fluid exchange.  But I don't have a machine for that in my living room.

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9 hours ago, Fifty150 said:

Drive until your transmission fluid is warmed up, then check the level with the fill plug.  Add fluid until it starts coming out of the fill plug.  

 

I'm beginning to think that I may want to drain the pan & fill, with every 2 or 3 oil changes.  The more you drain & fill, the fresher the fluid will be.  

 

It's better to perform a complete fluid exchange.  But I don't have a machine for that in my living room.

 

The fill plug huh ,  i think overfilling could be problematic also don't you think ?  Too bad there is no way to tell the correct level .

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4 hours ago, G B L said:

The Trans in my Tc shifts and pulls fine . Flushing the trans fluid is routine after the first time.  A 1700 Lb trailer pulls fine, the only down side is the fuel mileage did not improve as I had hoped.

Transit Connect  Cargo.png

That trailer in the pic looks like no issue at all , i heard some try to pull more weight than whats recommended .

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15 hours ago, Fifty150 said:

Drive until your transmission fluid is warmed up, then check the level with the fill plug.  Add fluid until it starts coming out of the fill plug.  

 

"Fill plug"??  You fill it from the breather vent on the top of the trans

 

It would be nigh on to impossible to add any fluid at that side port you're calling the 'fill plug'  -  The only function of that hole in the trans case is to check the fluid level  -  Make sure then engine is running, in Park and your van is level both fore and aft and side to side when checking the level

 

It's not impossible to do a fairly complete flush  -  It just takes lots of fluid.  I got about a 95% change using 16 quarts when I flushed mine using Castrol full synthetic at 25,000 miles.  Now the plan is to drain and refill 4 quarts every oil change . . . . and check the level every time

 

Don

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Here again is the post I did on changing the Trans Fluid . I have done this 3 times so far.
 

Here is the post I did on the Transmission Change.

The hardest part of this operation will be getting the TC Jacked up. Should be almost level . Remove the Under body dust shield . Look for the Drain Plug. 11 mm or 7/16 wrench.

Trans Drain Plug Small.jpg ] Trans fill vent General Location Small.jpg Trans Vent Cap 1Small.jpg

This style funnel will slide down into the Vent plug you just removed Put 3 quarts of fluid in

[attacjpg] ] Trans funnel small.jpg

Run the TC for 5 to 10 minutes . Then drain the fluid again. Repeat this 2 more times You have Now used 9 quarts of fluid.

Put the Drain plug back in make it snug this time. Add 3 quarts of fluid You have now used 12 quarts.

Go under the car and Look for the indicator plug (14 mm wrench) Loosen the plug. Do not remove yet

Trans Fluid Level indicator Plug Small.jpg

Start the engine with the engine running and the Car in park pull the plug and add fluid into the funnel until it just drips out the Indicator hole Replace plug put the Dust shield on , Pull the funnel and replace the vent cap. Total Fluid 13 Qts. With most of number 13 left

There is no filter to change on this operation and the type of fluid is Mercon LV.

Have fun!

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