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2015 TC transmission fluid change

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If the transmission is not up to temp you still need it to be running.  You can take a small tie wrap and make a 90degree bend 3/4 of an inch from the end with the level plug  out you can put the tie wrap in the hole and if the oil is on the end of the tie wrap then the level is ok.

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4 hours ago, Fifty150 said:

 

There's a filter.

 

You will not be changing it. It's inside the transmission case. The transmission has to be removed, and split open in half, in order to change it. 

 

No worries.  The filter is just a screen.  You will be fine as long as you are changing the fluid.

 

 

That's insane what Nazi designed that one where you have to remove the trans and split the case to get to a filter?🤒 Then to add insult to injury the manual says replace fluid at 150k miles.. All this gives new meaning to the words maintenance free when in reality most transmissions which are very expensive to begin with need the most preventative maintenance,,ha...

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Remember the basic warranty is 3 years 36000 miles and the power train warranty is 5 years or 60000 so if they could get away with it the Tc would have explosive bolts that were set to go  off some time after that when the car was unoccupied !!

With all the transmission filters that i have changed  if the filter was full of debris then the transmission was already cooked.

If the fluid was changed at the right time and never run low and there was not too much abuse an oil drain and flush would be enough to insure good service.

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On 12/28/2019 at 3:40 PM, '14 Connect said:

Then to add insult to injury the manual says replace fluid at 150k miles..

That's because Ford advertises it as 'Lifetime Fluid' which lasts the lifetime of the transmission . . . . . unfortunately, sometimes the transmission lifetime is only 75,000 miles

 

Don

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4 hours ago, Beta Don said:

That's because Ford advertises it as 'Lifetime Fluid' which lasts the lifetime of the transmission . . . . . unfortunately, sometimes the transmission lifetime is only 75,000 miles

 

Don

Exactly!!...On a different note, I just bought this '14 so am just getting used to it but I noticed when ice cold then driving for maybe 60 seconds the coolant needle goes from cold to halfway up where it should be when operating in normal temperature range hot in like 60 seconds have you noticed that on yours??.. Most other cars takes like 5-10 minutes when driving to get halfway, its crazy...

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5 hours ago, '14 Connect said:

Exactly!!...On a different note, I just bought this '14 so am just getting used to it but I noticed when ice cold then driving for maybe 60 seconds the coolant needle goes from cold to halfway up where it should be when operating in normal temperature range hot in like 60 seconds have you noticed that on yours??.. Most other cars takes like 5-10 minutes when driving to get halfway, its crazy...

I've noticed that too. My guess is a more efficient cooling system with a smaller capacity. Which is great when it's cold out. let it idle for 5 minutes and I have warm air. My dodge diesel takes 20 miles before I get heat!

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An idling diesel engine does not make much heat. Large trucks have shudders on the Radiator to to keep the temp up in the cold weather. Idling Gasoline engines are much better heaters in the cold weather.

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Diesel has more BTUs than gasoline. The reason for the shudders and longer warm up time is the cooling system capacity. The transit 2.5 engine takes approximately 6 quarts of coolant. A cummins 6.7 takes 8 gallons! A Cummins ISX15 (that is 15 liters) that comes in many series 8 trucks takes 15 gallons of coolant. It's impressive that the design of the ford engine and cooling system can keep the engine cool enough with only a gallon and a half of coolant.

James

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8 hours ago, G B L said:

An idling diesel engine does not make much heat. Large trucks have shudders on the Radiator to to keep the temp up in the cold weather. Idling Gasoline engines are much better heaters in the cold weather.

You are correct, GBL. 

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Yes diesel fuel has more btu's per gal.

It also wastes less energy as waste heat ,which is why a diesel gets 30 percent higher mileage.  In the cold climates the  medium duty trucks and busses with out shudders use covers to keep the operating temp within range .

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Just thought I'd add this as I'm replacing the transmission fluid on my newly acquired 2015 Transit Connect with the Ecoboost 1.6L engine and I noticed that it's different than most everything I've seen discussed on this forum.  The transmission in my van has the indicator plug on the right side of the axle and uses a 10mm hex plug instead of a bolt.  Here's a couple of pictures of what it looks like.  So if you have the Ecoboost engine, this might be what your indicator plug looks like.

IMG_1216.jpg

IMG_1211.jpg

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Ricobike, I have the same 2015 fluid level plug. did you follow the same procedure , running at operating temp, in nuetral?

Company van, try to do all my own service but employees have been hard on it.Is there a reset procedure after the fluid change? 

Having a hell of a time with this transmision. Hate to think of the van as a throw away!

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11 hours ago, jpbonesaw said:

Is there a reset procedure after the fluid change? 

Having a hell of a time with this transmision. Hate to think of the van as a throw away!

  Hopefully, there's no internal damage, and some fresh fluid will help.  No amount of new fluid will help if the transmission is damaged.

 

 

 

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The transmission adaptive learning table can be reset with Forscan or IDS. This clears the learned shift points based on the previous driving style. But I don't know if it solves any problems. I also don't know if there are any side effects.

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Thanks for posting , everything that video spoke of! Transmission started acting up in the snow and slush but the hard down shifts made me cringe.

 

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On 12/26/2020 at 3:56 PM, jpbonesaw said:

Ricobike, I have the same 2015 fluid level plug. did you follow the same procedure , running at operating temp, in nuetral?

Company van, try to do all my own service but employees have been hard on it.Is there a reset procedure after the fluid change? 

Having a hell of a time with this transmision. Hate to think of the van as a throw away!

 

I did follow the same procedure but because I didn't have a tool to tell me what the temp was in the transmission, I did the leveling after I had taken it out for a normal drive for around a half hour.  Once I got back, I ran it through the gears then put it in park, leaving it running while doing the leveling procedure.  Not sure if that is totally correct, there seemed to be some conflicting information about what shift position to be in while leveling, park or neutral, but that's what I did.  My transmission didn't have any problems before I changed the fluid (at 120k miles), but since I didn't know the service performed on the transmission, I decided to change it to be safe. 

 

I performed the 3x flush and fill on 3 separate days a week apart to make sure the new fluid mixed with the old fluid before flushing it again.  I replaced the fluid with what was taken out each time, then did the leveling on a separate day.  Probably not necessary but I figured that was probably a good way to do it.  My transmission does have a small leak between the transmission and the engine, but it's not enough to be too concerned about.  When I leveled it, it was down about 4 ounces.  I am catching the leak in a drain pan and I will replace what comes out every six months or so.  I figure it's leaking less than an ounce every couple of months.

 

Hope this and what was posted above helps you with your issues.

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10 minutes ago, ricobike said:

I figured that was probably a good way to do it.

 

 

Good enough. Not everyone wants to do it over 4 days. And to jack up the car 4 times.  Overall, well done. 

 

And those additives that are suppose to fix leaks usually don't work.

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So I went through the fluid change and a few days later I checked the level and added just a bit more. The vehicle was shifting perfect! I took it to a shop anyway and plugged it in with the newest and best snap-on diagnostic equipment. There was 10 different codes from abs to wheel sensors issues, limp mode and service trans now! on and on. All these issues started when the trans started acting up. The only thing he did not do was clear the adaptive tables for the transmission, he could not understand what needed to be done. I left went through all the warm up procedures braking , shifting. then it all started again. This seems to be electrical, transmission acts up then the select a shift goes haywire. When I watched the video, the quick tip #66 was he using the free ford software on his laptop.

 

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What were the DTCs? Here is one problem that was caused by damaged reluctor rings on the abs wheel sensors

 

Determining the cause from the DTCs can be difficult and this is where an experienced mechanic has an advantage over us internet hounds. 

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1 hour ago, Don Ridley said:

What were the DTCs? Here is one problem that was caused by damaged reluctor rings on the abs wheel sensors

 

Determining the cause from the DTCs can be difficult and this is where an experienced mechanic has an advantage over us internet hounds. 

 

The important word being EXPERIENCED!  Next question, does your Ford dealer have any of these?  

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