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For other people who are interested in this, it appears this will not work on a 2014 Wagon XLT LWB. Everything was exactly as AVguy2 showed except my van's wiring harness has the wrong connector on it. About 6" further forward on the wiring harness than AVguy2 shows, I had 2 connectors tape-wrapped to the harness. When I got them free, I had one large power connector that fits the module correctly and one small green data connector that doesn't fit. Where AVguy2 shows that smaller black connector with 4 wires going into it, I have a green connector with 10 possible pins but only 4 of them are wired.

 

So it looks like I'm screwed. If anyone wants to try to replicate what AVguy2 did, send me a message and I'll sell the electrical bits to you since I can't use them.

 

 

IMG_0788.jpeg

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On 11/24/2017 at 11:38 AM, AVguy2 said:

Did forget to note that all of my work is related to a US spec TC with a 4 pin trailer connector. Euro spec models use a 13 pin trailer connector and everything could be different including the module itself.

Hi AVguy2,

 

I just bought a camper trailer to tow behind my Transit Connect 2016 wagon.  I don't have to factory towing package so I am going to follow your instructions to install the factory trailer module and wiring.  I feel like the sway control is a nice feature and I would like to be able to disable the backup camera, while towing and when my bike rack is installed.

 

The only rub is that my camper uses the 7 pin trailer connector.  It does not have trailer brakes, but it does have running lights and uses the 12+ source to charge the trailer battery and run interior lights.

 

I was thinking it might be easier to install the Euro spec 13 pin trailer wiring and module as this would be easier to adapt to the 7 pin trailer connecter.  I was wondering if you knew the ford part numbers for the 13 pin wiring and module?  Do you think this is a good idea?

 

Thanks!

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I got a Curt hitch and 4-pin wiring done to my 2016 by an independent shop 2 yrs ago.  I tow a 1500lbs (+/-) tent-trailer in summer with no problems, usually with the A/C on & usually with a load of 'stuff' in the van too.  Originally wanted to install the accesory trans cooler I had but couldn't find any room or easy way to do it. No problem as never had any overheating.  I do use a 4pin (van) to 6pin (trailer) adaptor. There are 4-pin to 7-pin adaptors available.

Edited by Gideon
more info

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If you are thinking about the EU Module make sure the trailer connecter is set up for the 12 feed, if not then all the extra money and process will not help the battery.   A 50- 100 watt solar panel on the top of the pop up will do more for the battery. 

As for the trailer sway I have used these on multiple trailers over 30 years .  Rather than trying to out smart the sway they reduce or eliminate the sway.  Simple and bullet proof.

 

Sway Control .jpg

Edited by G B L

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20 hours ago, Gideon said:

I got a Curt hitch and 4-pin wiring done to my 2016 by an independent shop 2 yrs ago.  I tow a 1500lbs (+/-) tent-trailer in summer with no problems, usually with the A/C on & usually with a load of 'stuff' in the van too.  Originally wanted to install the accesory trans cooler I had but couldn't find any room or easy way to do it. No problem as never had any overheating.  I do use a 4pin (van) to 6pin (trailer) adaptor. There are 4-pin to 7-pin adaptors available.

Awesome glad to hear that you don't have issues towing your camper.  I have considered getting the Curt trailer wiring harness and a 7 pin adapter.  Just seems like the OEM solution would be a little nicer.

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9 hours ago, G B L said:

If you are thinking about the EU Module make sure the trailer connecter is set up for the 12 feed, if not then all the extra money and process will not help the battery.   A 50- 100 watt solar panel on the top of the pop up will do more for the battery. 

As for the trailer sway I have used these on multiple trailers over 30 years .  Rather than trying to out smart the sway they reduce or eliminate the sway.  Simple and bullet proof.

 

Sway Control .jpg

 

This is what my wiring diagram lists for the 13 pin EU wiring, seems like it should have everything I need.  I also included the info about my trailers wiring.  I'm not sure how much current the trailer will actually draw through the #4 pin, but if it is up to 15 amps it seem like it could be an effective way to keep the trailer battery topped up while the vehicle is running.

PXL_20210118_001541271.jpg

Trailer Wiring.png

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My brother had a sway control like G B L's  on his old [heavy] tent-trailer. Worked great.  His present trailer is 6000 lbs 28ft and uses a load-equalising hitch.

As for me, I've never felt the need for brakes nor sway-control on my 1500lbs pop-up. But if I ever get my dream 1800 lb trailer, definitely brakes and the Curt sway control. Perhaps I'm just old-fashioned but would trust that control much more than electronics.

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48 minutes ago, Gideon said:

Perhaps I'm just old-fashioned but would trust that control much more than electronics. 

The electronic sway is trying to predict the trailer sway. The mechanical sway actually reduces the sway.  On a small well balanced trailer there is usually no issue. Once you have had a trailer start to dance no matter what the size the $52.50 for the sway control is cheap.

 

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What kind of trailer wire comes with the 13 pin  module If it has enough leads then fine.  If it is a 4 flat plug ,then  a converter plug won't help it would need a 7 contact  socket and harness.  

Without the 13 pin a regular trailer  adaptor can be hooked up to the 7 contact socket withe the addition for the pin 4  12 volt feed added from the fuse box. 

If you want brakes a brake controller will be needed.

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I found some information that may help others trying to create and OEM style 7 or 13 pin trailer hookup.  I purchased the trailer module and wiring harnesses that AVguy2 shared part numbers for earlier.  I inspected the connector that you plug into the module for harnesses that goes to the trailer.  Looks like it is Ford Part number WPT-396.

 

I plan to order this connector separately as I can find it supplied with all 12 wires, heatshrink tubing, and connectors.  I then plan to use a 7 pin trailer extension wire and cut off the plug side and connect the connector WPT-396.

PXL_20210211_011116656.jpg

PXL_20210211_011127795.jpg

713A4bEzueL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

6127bc7155a92ef0fd08d96e7acc17d1.jpg

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That is very good.

The wiring diagram posted earlier for the does not show any wiring for electric brakes so if you want brakes on the trailer you will still need a controller and the brake wiring. 

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