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Retirement Road Trip Connect


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On 9/28/2016 at 1:33 PM, robertlane said:

This new section is for Transit Connect member custom builds.

Feel free to open a topic and show off what you've done to your Transit Connect! :)

I set out to make a road trip van for me and the dog out of my 2013 FTC, XLT.  I plan to take two long road trips (yet to be seen), after which I will restore the van back to its original.  I wanted curtains, air conditioner, storage, a decent mattress, refrig, ice maker (it makes a batch of ice in 8mn), solar panel (canoe fits next to it) / deep cycle battery, 30amp plug-in, 120V and 12V plugs, outdoor cooking supplies and pull out awning.  The curtains went better than I expected, I sewed them.  I could not have sewn without Youtube.  The flexible rods are bolted to the existing holes.  The only drilled holes are around the Lexan window (holes will be behind original window), it is curved & I could not curve it, so screwed it.  A car friend insisted that I get the wheel flares painted to match the car, so I did. Very fun project whether or not I make to Belize.

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5 hours ago, G B L said:

That a lovely Job and a Lovely Dog.  Where will the trips take you?

Thanks, Plans are to first drive, "The Great River Road" along the Mississippi R. from its MN headwaters.  Historically, I am not real keen on long drives, but have never done it on absolutely no schedule, so will do this once retired in 2 yrs, maybe less.  Then if that goes OK, the next year I will try for Belize, about 3,000 miles.  What I do like is working on the Connect, long drives we'll have to see about.

I see your Scout, excellent.  I had a '77 Scout II, loved it.  Except for the rust it was in great shape :). I sold it a few years ago. I like Uinta's Detour beer (expensive), has a Scout I on the label. I bought it just for the label the first time.

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It was said, "IH would dip the Scouts in salt water before painting them."  There were very common, predictable locations that they would rust and boy would they.  Mine was from Alaska (1977) then CA then out to MD where in 1987 I awoke to the rust.  I was not prepared.

Anyone seeing problem rust areas on the Connects ?  Mine is currently mostly garaged waiting for me to retire.  A base model, 4dr manual, 1996 Jeep Cherokee is my daily driver, it has very little rust/almost none, pretty amazing.

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I kept my first Connect for 10 years. Living in the rust belt I think I saw the worst it could get. Rocker panels are the most sensitive area prone to rust due to rock chips. Mud flaps like yours would help a lot, mine wasn't equipped. Also had the bonnet's front edge (inside) quite rusty before replacing it due to a traffic accident. The underbody (apart from the abovementioned areas) was good at 10 years/300,000 km, just some surface rust. Replaced the exhaust once but that's probably normal.

So, I suggest you have the obvious parts protected and you'll be fine. It's a beautiful and functional car, enjoyed the hell out of mine.

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If you put a really good set of Flaps behind the Front wheels and stay in Maryland in the winter you should get great service out of yours.

As for the Scout this is the second time that I am going around mine.  Between my brother in law and Me it has been in the family for 30 years.  Too much history to let go !

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  • 2 weeks later...

One more addition this last weekend.  I put in a back up camera, One that has the video display on a center rear view mirror.  For now I am keeping the stock radio and a separate GPS unit.  The camera comes in a rear license plate lamp housings, has a lamp also.  Works well, I think.  The lens actually sees the bumper at its ends and directly below sees the ground no more than 1 foot off the bumper. 

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I hope the rear view mirror display works better for you than it did for me  -  Glare caused by light coming in the windows washes out the display and made it almost useless in the daytime.  Works great at night though

Don

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  • 6 months later...

A few more electrical modifications to my 2013 FTC.  I added a 2nd 12V deep cycle solar battery.  They weigh 72lbs each, so now more ice making capacity :).  I also added a small battery charger that charges from the rear power point to the solar batteries (12V dc to 12V dc), for when the sun isn't shining while driving and there is ice to be made later. Therefore I wanted the power point(s) to be ignition switched.  I found one unused switched circuit (F144 for taxi block) that now powers the back power point.  I put in a toggle switch to charge the batteries with either the solar panel or the power point. 

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I also picked up a small 120V ac to 12V dc charger (for when parked/plugged in), neither take up much room or supply much current, couple of amps as I recall, but thinking enough for my purposes.

I ran across ready-made jumpers, so no cutting of wires or making my own. http://www.kawal.net/poweroutlet.htm

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For the front power point (so far just my GPS/phone) I tapped into the fog lamp circuit (F147), also switched, but they do go off with the high beams.  I did not find a 2nd unused switched circuit.  Any suggestions for a different switched circuit to use for the front power port, please let me know.

Next mod, a paper towel holder...

 

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  • 2 months later...

What I did for paper towels. I could not fit Jack's idea and my 2013's shelf has round holes, not slots like mrtn's 2015.  My shelf's round holes should be good for tissues etc.

I went with two paper towel holders, one on the ceiling at the rear door, mounted to wood, fasted to existing holes.  The other at the passenger side slider, also an existing plastic floor trim hole attaches a 90 degree bracket to which I screwed a dowel.  While at it, I put in a fire extinguisher, there will be cooking and just in case my wiring has any issues :).

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discovered this in my 2006 TC with round perforation, so yes. The best possible tissue for it is the hand dryer paper you pull from the center. Cut the roll in half so it fits on the shelf upright and you’re good to go.

 

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  • 1 year later...

What you want is a kit.  There are different companies selling RV/Van solar panel kits.  You get panels, they plug into a controller, which routes the power to your battery.  Even Harbor Freight has solar panels and parts.  Look around, and find one which best suits your needs.  You will need to be handy enough to drill holes, and mount the equipment.  Other than that, it's all "plug & play".  Your big decision will be if you want to permanently mount these panels and drive around with them on your roof 100% of the time, or fabricate a system to set them up when you're at camp.

 

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  • 1 month later...

Finally I retired and took my 2013 with 24,000 miles on it, on a road trip. MD, up through MI, West across its UP, WI and down MN to the Mississippi Headwaters, then followed its marked Great River Rd. I turned east at Memphis, through AL (Muscle Shoals, fantastic), across Rabun Cty, GA to Asheville and Greensboro. One more VA stop on my way home. Over 4,000 miles, not much interstate.

 

My question. I think my trip odometer resets to 0 at 2000 miles. Might this be a "feature" or a bug ? Thanks.

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Vonn, just now see I your Aug post. I mounted my panel to a roof rack and ran the wires in through the lexan window I built. I did add a blue tooth auto load shut off. I have not had it kick in yet. I have two deep cycle batteries. I plug in at night at campgrounds. Hoteling it, the batteries run the small frig overnight.  I also have a DC to DC "trickle charger" for cloudy days. I will get a bigger amp one for my next trip. The sun never shines in MI. Any questions feel free. No expert, I did it once 2.5 years ago.

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