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Open 2014 Liftgate from Inside?

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Oh, I see the wiring diagram is in this thread. 

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On 2/2/2018 at 9:36 PM, Don Ridley said:

The latch and lock are both controlled by the body control module BCM. There is a motor in the latch that may be bad. The "lock" appears to be logic in the BCM that knows when to send voltage to the motor. You can check for voltage but you need the wiring diagram, pin outs and some electrical knowledge. Otherwise, try replacing the latch motor. If power is not getting to the motor, the switch on the lift gate may be bad (pushing the latch pulls the voltage to GND and the BCM responds). Hopefully the BCM is OK.

 

Let me know if you want the wiring diagram.

Thanks for the response Don Ridley.

 

So we couldn't figure it out, it was taken to local Ford dealer and they replaced the latch(and wiring harness) this past Friday. But the problem made an appearance again today. Hahaha oh well. Will bring up a possible bad BCM when we take it Back to dealer before a possible trade-in. 

Again thanks for your insight on this, very much appreciated. 

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On 1/30/2018 at 10:05 AM, 4DoorDriven said:

I can lock/unlock all the doors with the key fob but the rear liftgate remains locked. 

So I have the same problem with my transit. And now the problem is getting worse. The rear lift gate is opening up all on its own. When it happens, it does it right when the automatic door locks happen when you start driving the vehicle. My wife was driving it the other day and the rear door opened completely, very scary for her. I have talked with ford and the only other thing to try is replacing the BCU, but it is not guaranty that it will fix the problem, and it is very expensive. I have already tried replacing the door locking mechanism. 

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I don't know how the previously listed problem was resolved. But here are my thoughts:

 

The BCM will open the rear door latch when it sees a +12V signal go to 0V on one of the inputs. By pressing the door latch button you pull the 12V signal to GND. Since the problem appears to happen when all the doors lock, there is a possibility a brief current surge is pulling down the 12V  "open latch" signal due to an electrical problem in one of the other locks or maybe inside the BCM.  If this is the problem it can be measured on the proper pin going into the BCM. I would hope the dealer would attempt to capture this possible voltage drop if it exists (a good digital voltmeter can do this). But this will only confirm the BCM is responding to the input. The fix may still reside inside the BCM.  I would be more comfortable replacing the BCM if it could be shown the 12V signal never went to zero but the door was opened anyway.

 

Also, check the battery voltage, It should be 14V or higher for normal operation.

 

Good luck.

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