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Help replacing piston rings

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yea thats true! the tranny is new so im good there.

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Looks good, Take your time and it will turn out great, Mark every thing you Torque up with a chalk or paint stick so when you get a Phone call

in the middle you don' loose your place.

Change the water pump also.

You are in the Tunnel soon you will see the light.

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this is like a good mystery novel.

thanks for the great story guys. I hope it has a good ending.

:lurk:

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thanks guys. I will keep you up to date as I get parts in and make progress. Will be at least another week before the head arrives.

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I have a question about the piston rings I received. they came with no instructions and the shop manual isnt 100% clear. Im confused which ring is the top and middle. I know the oil rings are on the bottom. One ring is black in color and has a beveled edge, the other is lighter in color almost silver, and has no bevel at all. From what I have read, if there is no dot then it can go bevel up or down, the shop manual states they can both face down as well. I just want to make sure I have them in the right spot. Right now I have the beveled ring on the top slot and then non below followed by the oil rings. Like an idot I took off all the old rings and didnt pay attention as they looked identical with all the carbon buildup on them.

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If you look on the ring is there one or two dots on the top of the ring? I suspect the Silver one will have 1 dot on it and the Black one will

have 2 dots. If that is the case 1 dot is the top ring. The oil ring rails are Staggered at least 20 mm or more apart with the ring gaps 120 Degrees apart.

Take your time.

plastigage the rod bearing so there are no surprises.

Take your time!

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there were no marking or dots, just the beveled edge and non. The bags that they came in said 1st and second. From what I read the beveled edge ring goes on the top and the silver and non beveled edge second. I guess i'll call the manufactured to be 100%. I already put them in so that would suck! One other thing is the manual says to replace the oil cooler or severe engine damage may occur?? how is that? I can find one anywhere to buy.Do you think I should get one from the stealership or will it be ok? I took it apart and cleaned it.

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There's the answer the bag that said first is the top and the Second is ring number 2. You should be able to flush out the oil cooler with a good cleaner. When you drained the old oil what did it look like? what was the condition of the old Rod bearings any evidence of grit or scoring? If not then you should be able to clean and re use it .

The engine came out for a compression problem and not an oiling problem.

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yea I was afraid of that. I had the rings on that way first but after reading I switched them. Oh well, at least I can fix it now easily. I cleaned out that cooler so it should be fine. The bearings and old oil were fine. Internally the engine looked great, especially for 185K miles. The replacement head will be there wednesday, once I get it I can start assembling everything. Im a bit worried about the timing since im putting on a different head and cams, but im sure I can figure it out. I'll keep you updated.

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Cool The timing will be the same for either head, line up the marks and go slow and let the tension-er take up the slack and go through

2 full revolutions and make sure the marks line up again and you will be fine.

Waiting for the next round.

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will do. thanks for the help GBL!

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Any more progress?

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well I just finished putting all the connectors on and filling all the fluids. I turned the key and cranked it over for a few seconds with no spark to get some oil primed and then tried with everything hooked up and it wont start. I hope its just something I overlooked. I know I have fuel, gonna check for spark tomorrow. I'll let it sit over night with the battery disconnected and try again in the morning. I'll get my obdII scanner and see what comes up. Pretty bummed, I thought it was gonna fire right up!

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Air, fuel, spark. If you have all three, it will start. You have got this far and I am sure you will figure it out. We are all waiting for the good news!!

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Thanks! It sounds like no spark, I think if the timing was off it would misfire. I'll keep you posted.

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hey a lot has happened . Does the Fuel pump Cycle for a couple of seconds when the key is turned on ? If it sounds normal when it cranks then it is most likely a Connector that is off or not connected

Sleep on it and Keep us posted.

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yea fuel pump is good, I didnt have the line all the way on and it blew off and shot fuel everywhere haha. The only connector I cant get on is the power steering pump one. All the others are on from what I can tell. I def have no spark, I took a coil pack out and put a plug in it and there is nothing going on. What could cause no spark?

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Does your Scanner give live data Have you cranked the engine with the Scanner hooked up ? It should show you if any sensors are unplugged.

If there is a spark problem it should set a trouble code.

could you have hit a sensor putting the engine in or taking it out. Check all the engine Grounds .

The crank sensor tells the Computer when to fire the plugs and injectors the rest of the sensors tell it how and what the engine needs.

If the Scanner has live data you should be able to see the sensor values with the key on engine off.

I will check back tomorrow.

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no my scanner just shows codes stored in the ecu. Im gonna try and see what comes up if anything to set me in the right direction. I checked all my connectors, got everything hooked up. No damage to any of them. Really frustrated right now, i'll let you know what codes it throws.

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so I scanned and nothing stored in the ecu. Im out of ideas. I may have to have it towed to a shop with a scanner and see whats up. this sucks!

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Did you check all the fuses, I have enclosed a copy of the owners Manual. it has a diagram of all the fuses that are relavant.

When you turn the key on does the fuel pump cycle to prime the injectors, do the guages come on.

A live data scanner will let you know if the computer is hot.

When the engine cranks does it sound normal, Like when you did the Compression test

Keep up the good work and keep me posted

2011 Transit connect man.pdf

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I have not checked all the fuses, I pulled a few but I will def. go over all them. Thanks for the manual. When the key is turned everything acts normal, fuel pump and all gauges. It turns over fine, I can just tell it doesnt have spark, like its not even trying to fire. Will a local shop have that scanner or would it be best to just take it to the stealership? thanks again!

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Checked all fuses, they are all good ;)

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I know it is hard to be everywhere. If you can get some one to Crank the engine you could see if the injectors are cycling

Did you pull a plug to see if the injectors are working? Where is the crank sensor on the engine, does it have a cam sensor? With coil on plug and multiport Injection the no spark sounds like no timing signal.

Does the Manual you have include a wiring harness for the engine computer circuit.

A good live data scanner will tell you alot

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