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collinjx

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Posts posted by collinjx

  1. I replaced my original radio in my 2018 LWB, XL with a Pioneer 7" touch screen after market radio. I modified the dash kit to get the screen more vertical. Helps to reduce the glare on the screen. Is there a  kit that mounts the screen more vertical then my modified attempt. I looking for one with a vertical tilt similar to a kit for the Transit.

    ford transit dash kit.jpg

    my dash kit.jpg

  2. That's a good point. I'll use cloth tape loosely wound around the foam. The reason for using foam is to stop the hard plastic wire insulation from the vibrating against the overhead shelf. Thanks for the advise.  

  3. I was hoping the few that have converted the gen2 TC cargo van for camping would recognized the rear wiper washer fluid supply tube. Hope this makes it a little clearer.  On the passenger side, in the cargo area upper rear corner on a gen2 cargo van, the washer fluid supply tube for the rear wipers is exposed. The washer fluid tube has the foam wrap in question. There are a few more places in the van where the wrap is used on wires. I'm guessing the wrap is use for abrasion and vibration protection. I'm looking for the foam to stop a noise from wiring I've ran through the roof above the windshield for extra outlets in the overhead storage and a battery voltage readout. The wires are now overheadstorageoutlets.thumb.jpg.1e14b45d5b79b8187c87abe2e9bd9ba7.jpg33732962_voliagereadout.thumb.jpg.a037dae55e79cdf230997f65df863d6e.jpgwrapped in 1/4" split loom which is vibrating against the metal causing a noise at higher speeds. I asking what the foam is called or where to purchase it. Thanks.

  4. Every 30,000 miles I drain and refill my transmission. The transmission and replacement oil is at ambient temperature. I refill the transmission with the same volume I drain. 

    When a dealer does a drain/refill three times for a transmission flush, between the each drain/refill the vehicle is driven to bring the fluid up to operating temp and mix the new fluid with the old. I'm guessing the service tech checks the transmission fluid lever after each drain/fill when the fluid is up to temperature. My question is if the fluid has to be up to temp to check the level, is this because the fluid expands at higher temps and contracts at ambient temps. If the fluid volume changes with temp, is the transmission fluid level low before it's up to operating temp? 

  5. I'm selling the bed I made for my 2018 LWB cargo TC. It's two sections, one 29", one 22" and is 12" off the floor. A two gallon bucket with a toilet lid can fit under the bed. A 16qt 12v compressor fridge fits under the 29" section. The sections can be bolted together or used separately. The length is 62" and extends to 72". The length can be changed by replacing the plywood at the foot of the bed with a different length. Each section has 4" high density foam that fit into sleeping bags. The bags aren't in the pics, they're being washed. The bed is secured to the floor with bolts and turn buckles. I'm planning on selling my TC soon, looking for something larger. I'm located 14 miles south of Cincinnati, Ohio. Email me at j8487c@gmail.com for more pics and info. Thanks.

    IMG_20210525_143148092.jpg

    IMG_20210525_143248588.jpg

  6. On 11/21/2016 at 11:49 PM, Fifty150 said:

    Has anyone here tried to install a modified H9 high beam into their H11 low beam housing?

    I've made a few cross country trips since replacing my H11 low beams with the modified H9 bulbs. YouTube has videos for the modification of the H9 bulb. For me the brightness and extra distance the H9 cast is much improve over the original H11 bulb. Makes it easier driving the expressways late at night. During the H9 bulb swap,  I realign my headlights slightly higher. But not so high to affect on-coming drivers.

  7. I found these interior lights on EBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/303539642506. I wired red to a always live terminal, black to ground, and yellow to the ground on the cargo area dome light. Open a door, now all lights turn on, shut the door all lights turn off. You would think all was good. Wrong.

     

    After closing the door, the newly added interior leds will come back on after 20 mins. The forward dome light stays off. I've contacted the supplier and I'm hoping they have a solution for the problem. 

     

     

  8. I found a third roll seat out of a older Chevy Suburban with the seat belts integrated into the seat. Angles were made to mount the front and back of the seat.  I used the cargo hooks mounting holes to attach the back of the seat to the floor. The feet at the front of the seat align with threaded holes in the cargo floor. The false floor was removed. A cover was fab with a couple of access doors. The front mounting angles are easy to fab. The back mounting a little more complicated.

     

     

    IMG_20200318_103032918.jpg

  9. I can't give you a fix but I can relay a similar problem I had with my 2014 C-Max. The C-max had a clunking noise coming from the RH front when going over a bump. The car was still under warranty so it went back to the dealer. After more then a week trying to find the cause of the noise the dealer replaced the RH control arm . Clunking noise was gone. Just so happens when replacing the control arm the recall for the door lock latches was also done.  Year and a half later the clunking started on the LH side. Not as loud as the RH before it was repaired but sounded the same. The car is now out of warranty. Should I have it fix or live with it. My fix was to turn up the radio. My LH front exterior door handle wouldn't unlatch to open the door on occasion. This started to happen around six months after the control arm was replaced. Last fall I had enough of the door handle not unlatching. With YouTube's help I disassemble the handle and found the mechanic didn't install the handle completely. He didn't replace one fastener. After replacing the fastener and the handle worked every time. Now the neat part. With the handle be a little loose (you couldn't tell by pulling it) it was causing a vibration in the door that that sounded the same as the clunking control arm. Long story short, the noise may not be coming from where you think. Hope you find the cause.

  10. My TC must be a bear bones model. I couldn't find a wire behind the door panel that would change voltage when the door opens. So I went a different direction. I soldered a 18 gauge wire to the dome light negative plate and tap a 6-32 threaded hole in the positive plate on the back of the dome light. I ran wiring back to the LED light bar that I installed in the cargo area. Now the dome and cargo lights work off the dome light off/auto/on switch. A switch on the door panel would had been easier to turn on the interior light. But modifying the dome light looked to be my only option.

    dome light 

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