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OLDSCHOOLFOOL

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Posts posted by OLDSCHOOLFOOL

  1. Changed the sensor and everything appears to be back to normal. Pretty much the easiest fix ever except that the sensor let go suddenly and I punched myself in the eye. The ABS light did not go off immediately as I would have expected but after about a few hundred feet all the lights went off. I guess it needed a signal to reset.

    Thanks @donridley for all your input.

  2. 5 hours ago, Don Ridley said:

    AutoZone can't read DTC (diagnostic trouble codes). You need a professional scan tool (Snap On, Autel etc) or Forscan. Replacing the sensors is simple and the manual has the two steps (partially) shown in the attached image of the previous post.

    AutoZone reading comes up with Front Left Wheel Speed Sensor faults.

    C0031-29

    C0031-07

    C0051-62

    C0031-11

     

    Proof will be in the pudding.

  3. Thanks Don, that is what I will attempt tomorrow but I'm not sure the AutoZone will be able to read ABS codes. We'll see.

    Do you know of any threads or "builds" that get into the replacement in any kind of detail? My old man search skills are less than stellar. not really finding much.

     

    A trip to the dealership will involve dragging, kicking, screaming, cursing and perhaps violence......?

  4. I appear to be having the same issue. It "seems" that I was able to get rid of the hill start assist unavailable message and the traction control light went off. It may not be permanent. The ABS light is on all the time now and disconnecting the battery should not make that go away. Suspect is the wheel sensor but nobody talks about how easily that may be changed. In the driveway.

    I don't know how old this thread is.

  5. Steel wheels ended up looking like this. Was planning silver because I just did a set of white wheels on my Jeep.

    Regardless of color I just don't like the look much so I'm going to simply put the stock hubcaps back on and try to wear the tread down on these tires. Not worth the effort (to me) to bother painting them.

    These are not the 235/60R16 tires that I mentioned in the previous post. They are 245/50R16s and while I like the graphics on the sidewalls they are too wide for the front and not wide enough for the rear. Not my favorite.

    steel wheels.jpg

  6. I just recently discovered that I can fit 235/60R16s under the front end. With a calculated diameter of 27.1" I believe that is the tallest tire yet, not to mention the added width. No rubbing anywhere but the wheels have an offset of +38. Not sure yet if they'll rub on full lock with the stock wheel offset of +50 but the next Wheel Whore project will find out.

     

    Note that this throws the speedometer off by a good bit. Not a big concern to me, but still.

  7. Been kinda wondering what the stock steelies would look like painted white. I hate the black and the stock hubcaps are only marginally better.

    Definitely can appreciate your ingenuity with the center caps and they look good. Not quite me though cause I like to expose my nuts.

    Since I now have some winter tires that I'm thinking of putting on the steelies, white just might be a good direction to go in. 

  8. On 2/22/2022 at 8:45 PM, geomac217 said:

    I was told these wheels are not to be used on the TC What has been your experience using them? are you using 215/55/16 tires and what about the TPS sensors, etc thanks

    I have to say I'm curious as to the reason why NOT? The wheel specs are identical but just a guess maybe the weight rating? I never had a bit of problem whatsoever.

  9. On 12/30/2021 at 5:00 PM, Jenni Driver said:

    Hi, i see you are looking to do some insulating on the rear door too. I had a brain idea thinking maybe i could hinge a shelf there, for cooking. what do you think? i have a 2013 xlt

     

    I think it is a great idea. Not sure what the contour of the 2013 rear doors are. Mine are a kind of weird, rounded shape with projections that doesn't exactly help hinging a shelf there but with a little creativity just about anything is possible.

  10. Been meaning to post this for a while. I used the rockwool in the doors and also added some in the quarter panels and pillars where I could. On the passenger side there wasn't access (without cutting metal) so I added a layer of foam board over the wheel well under the black plastic cover. Even though I STILL have not completely finished ALL of the rest of the insulation, I was able to "survive" a 13F night. Below 20F it is still a little chilly especially around the sliding doors and floor. Still very doable. With a small heat source it was quite comfy down to about 25F outside.

    HUGE difference in the road noise coming from the cargo area also.

  11. 6 hours ago, jrm223 said:

    The plastic came off relatively easily for me, I just took my time and separated the adhesive a little at a time. Cutting the glue would work, too. I never did put the plastic back on and also replaced the panels with .024 black aluminum diamondplate (black van, not white). 

    I intend to reuse the panels, both for cost savings and I'm trying to keep heat in. One of the goals is to cover as much of the metal back there but not go too much overboard. I want it to look neat but utilitarian, not really that fancy if you will.

  12. 17 hours ago, jrm223 said:

    I insulated my solid (windowless) rear barn doors with Roxul rockwool on the bottom half of the doors, and the little wiring cavity that's about halfway up the wall behind the plastic panels, too.

    Not familiar with rockwool so I did a little reading and this looks like a very good solution. A bit more cost but it's not like I'm doing a huge area. Appreciate the suggestion.?

     

    Next up is how to remove (intact) the plastic film behind the panels. My thought is to try and take a single edge razor blade and slowly separate the film from the metal door. I keep reading about it being somewhat hard to get off without tearing it all to pieces. Not even sure if it's worth my effort but I assume it is there for vapor barrier.

  13. After 4 years I'm finally starting to do something with the inside of 2016 cargo van. This thing is not really friendly to being insulated. Would like some opinions on insulating the rear and sliding doors. My first inclination is to shove some fiberglass insulation into the cavities behind the factory door panels panels but I got an uneasy feeling about collecting moisture back there. Any ideas?

  14. On 3/27/2020 at 7:12 PM, Fifty150 said:

    People hoard out of instinct. I don't blame them.

     

    TP is the least of anyone's concern.

    I was just joking around a little but in reality there's nothing to joke about. It is disturbing to me people who aren't taking this thing seriously. NC goes on lockdown tomorrow and I'm glad for it.

     

    And that tomato beef looks mighty damned good.

  15. I've been pretty much holed up since the first of March with only a couple trips to the grocery store. Lucky enough to live in a county where they have shut down access to all but residents. We are not on official lockdown. Can't figure out why people are complaining about this "social distancing" thing. Hell, I've been practicing social distancing most of my adult life, with people in general not being my favorite species of animal.

     

    I do miss the toilet paper though.....?

  16. 1 hour ago, Camperconnect said:

    Any of the factory size tires on the focus and fusion 18" wheels. 

     

    A 2017 Focus calls for 235/40/18 whereas 2010 TC says 205/65/15. The difference in those two sizes is the 18" tire is .1" shorter (dia.) but 20mm (3/4") wider. Shouldn't cause any rubbing issue at least not with that exact size. I just picked 2017 Focus out of the air because you weren't specific.

  17. 8 hours ago, KevinRollin said:

     

    Which bolt?  The seat bolts?   About an inch.  A little over an inch.  Threaded portion IIRC was slightly less than an inch.  

     

    I could measure tomorrow maybe. Do you have something in mind for the stock bolts?  

     

     

    No, just may not want to go up two inches. Maybe one inch. The length of the stock bolt is the starting point for determining the length of the replacement bolts. I cannot locate my Torx bit at the moment, otherwise I'd go ahead and pull one out to measure. Perhaps I should be a little more organized but the Torx bits are something I rarely, rarely use. At least not that large.

     

    All that (unnecessary) crap around the instrument cluster can make it hard to see the speedo and such at different angles.

  18. On 2/13/2020 at 10:30 AM, jrm223 said:

    He's probably referring to the tripmeter, at the bottom of the dash display. Hold the button in for 4-5 seconds to reset it. Fun fact, when a TC G2 says "0 miles to empty", it does still have a fair reserve (not that I recommend using it!) - enough to go about 35-40 miles at 70-75 MPH, lol. Hey, it was 2am and I'm in rural Texas - so that drive only went through like 2 little podunk towns, lol. Ran out just 2 blocks from home and had to walk for my gas can, then filled up first thing in the morning. 

    Perhaps you should have gone 80-85 mph so the momentum would have gotten you the last 2 blocks. ?

  19. On 2/13/2020 at 3:36 PM, Camperconnect said:

    Does anyone know if the new generation American Ford Fusion and Focus wheels fit 2010-2013 American TC? I see bolt specs are the same but Im concerned about rubbing, with the wider and taller  tire width, than stock wheels.

    Your choice of tire size is going to determine if you have a rubbing issue (not the wheels). What size tires were you considering?  You haven't mentioned that.

  20. 10 hours ago, sKiZo said:

    Huh. Been reading up - does the "tank trip" reading reset automatically when you fill the tank?

     

    (never mind - a bit more reading, and it looks like you have to hit the little red button before filling up.)

    I'm trying to figure out what this "tank trip" reading is. "Miles to empty" is one of the few things I use on the info display and even that rarely when I'm trying to stretch to where I know the gas is cheapest. It does automatically adjust when you put gas in, no reset required. Maybe the two are the same thing?

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