Jump to content

Don Ridley

T.C. Member
  • Content Count

    554
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    42

Reputation Activity

  1. Like
    Don Ridley reacted to Zarticus in Upgrade instrument cluster 2016   
    I have a 2016 Titanium & it has the small screen so not all Titaniums have this upgrade. Looks like I'll be doing this conversion too/
  2. Like
    Don Ridley reacted to gwbasley in No AC after Carwash   
    OK, so I am posting this a year later for anyone having  an intermittent A/C problem.
     
    I drive a 2016 TC XLT and within the past 6 months, (I live in Florida so I use A/C in December), began having a problem where my A/C would suddenly just start to blow warm....a few miles further and it would work normally again.  This was totally unpredictable and no amount of fiddling with the controls would would have any effect.
     
    After a major internet search, which included this thread, I decided to change out the ambient air temp sensor since It was only $16.00 at NAPA.  On my vehicle it was located exactly as shown in Zalienz's post above.  The view shown there is from the inside out after the plastic shield has been removed...this puts it on the driver's side in the lower corner of the cowl.  I also took this opportunity to replace the push rivets on the underpan which were damaged or missing from oil changes.
     
    The fix worked perfectly.
  3. Like
    Don Ridley got a reaction from mrtn in Power Liftgate kit available   
    The installation was not easy and I need to work on some bugs with the manufacturer. Once everything is resolved I will post more details.
    liftgate 2-2.mp4
  4. Like
    Don Ridley reacted to B0NE in KevinRollin’s road trip adventure van - Silver 2018 Cargo   
    I agree with jrm223 about the Reflectix, I've seen many people using it wrong. It works great in an attic where you would lay the sheets over the existing insulation and it reflects heat away from the living space. The foam boards were an option for me but I wanted to avoid the possible noise it would create vibrating against the steel exterior. Plus it's very difficult to get the foam board into the many voids of the body. Spray foam was also an option but I didn't want to risk spraying too much in and bulging out the exterior, I did this on my boat, under the 1/8 aluminum bench seats and it bulged it out. Maybe the window and door foam would be okay. The other option was fiberglass insulation which I wasn't crazy about because I HATE working with that stuff and it puts out fibers into the air. Even though I had plans to completely cover it with panels, I was still concerned about the fibers finding their way out around the edges. Then I discovered 3M makes rolls of Thinsulate. The same stuff that's used in clothing but in 5 foot by however long rolls you want. This stuff was designed for exactly what we wanted to accomplish, excellent r-value, noise reduction, moisture resistance, and no dust fibers. I believe they use this stuff on boats as well. It is a bit pricey but worth it IMO. You can push it into all the voids and for the long runs on the roof and sides, you can use the 3M spray adhesive to help keep it from sagging. It comes in different thicknesses, I used the thickest version, the 600 https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Thinsulate-Acoustic-Insulation-SM600L/?N=5002385+3292659035&rt=rud
     
    On a side note, I also used sound deadening black butyl on the exterior sheet metal. This stuff reduces vibration, not necessarily road noise. The insulation will lessen the road noise, it's two different types of sound deadening and used in conjunction it's brilliant. When you apply the butyl, you only need to cover 25% of the area you are trying to sound deaden. Past the 25-35% coverage results in reduced returns, more weight, more work, and more cost. If you decide to go the 100% coverage route, it will definitely reduce more sound but not by much. My main concern was weight. My initial plan was to put 72 sq ft of that stuff on, so I ordered 2 boxes. When I felt the weight of just 1 box, I realized how much weight I was adding, so I cut it back especially after learning about reduced returns. Most of my research on sound deadening was done on car audio sites. If you start tearing your van apart, you will see the factory butyl sheets. I always wondered why they didn't cover the whole thing, now I know. You are just trying to add mass to the metal panel. More mass requires more energy to vibrate it.
  5. Like
    Don Ridley reacted to G B L in 5W-30 Synthetic Oil Use   
    Hey we are all locked down what else do we have to do?
  6. Like
    Don Ridley reacted to kdkool in Upgrade instrument cluster 2016   
    This thread inspired me to do the swap too. 
     
    Here's my swap.
     
    Original:
     

     
     
    Dumped the 24C32F EEPROM from my original cluster and transferred mileage details (0xF54 to 0xF67) to the new one.
     

     
    Original monochrome cluster's EEPROM is right on the back. Easy access.
     

     
    Color LCD display's EEPROM was on the other side so complete disassembly of cluster including gauges required for access.

     
    Done!
     

     
     
    Pretty fun and straight forward mod!
  7. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from jrm223 in Ability to lock keys in car   
    There may be a problem with the door module. Connect a scan tool to see if there are any error codes. Maybe it's just the door switch. Do the lights go on and off? Do you get a door open message when the engine is running?
  8. Haha
    Don Ridley got a reaction from jrm223 in Intentionally leaving FOB inside my 16 TC XLT and using my other FOB to gain entry?   
    The FOB has a transmitter that allows the vehicle start. Leaving a fob inside will allow the van to be started by punching the ignition or other criminal means. I want to hide a key under the body but need to find a way to block the disable/enable signal.
  9. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from jrm223 in Any SunPass Users in Florida?   
    The heated windshield has a grid of very small wires across the entire windshield. You can see it if you look closely. It was an option on my XLT. At first the grid bugged me but I got used to it. It clears the windshield in less than 2 minutes. The heater does not stay on very long so the windshield does not get hot. It will not affect suction cups or stickers.
  10. Like
    Don Ridley got a reaction from wrshultz in Euro Rear Fog Light modification   
    I saw a guy on the Focus RS forum was trying to add a rear fog light his RS. The Euro RS comes with a rear fog light you turn on from the light switch module.  Based on his findings, the US vehicles will respond to the light switch signal by illuminating the icon on the cluster but the BCM does not output the signal to turn on the rear fog light. The BCM firmware can only be updated by a dealer and no dealer will install the Euro BCM firmware. The Focus RS guy gave up an added a separate switch. I looked for another solution.
    I bought a light switch from eBay UK. I confirmed the rear fog light illuminates on the cluster and the BCM does not output a signal. I tried in vain to find a signal from the light switch module I could use to turn on the fog light. The switch is only sending out LIN Bus packets, there is no physical switching of signals/power.
    Next, I focused on the power that was controlling the LED on the cluster and found the circuitry for the rear fog LED on the cluster circuit board (I used my spare cluster from a recent cluster upgrade). The LED does not turn on/off with a simple on/off voltage and the power is pulse width modulated (PWM). After a lot of testing and some circuit design, I found a circuit that will turn on a rear fog light by pressing the button on the light switch.
    I built a circuit that reads the voltage on the cluster LED and turns it into a signal I can use to drive a relay. I know this is probably too complicated for most, but it is a functional solution. See the attached sketch of the circuit diagram. Half of the circuit is home-made and the other half is a relay driver that I bought on Amazon. I soldered a wire on the cluster circuit board for the LED signal and connected it to the circuit (I briefly panicked when the new, upgraded cluster PCB was completely different from the old, but eventually found the same circuit components). I used power from the front fog lights to operate the circuit and the rear fog lamp so nothing is powered if the front fog lights are not on. The circuit is under the dash cover behind the IPC.
    Next, I had to modify the socket for the rear marker light. I bought a used wiring harness with all of the rear bulbs and sockets. I carved out the marker light socket to match the keys on the larger socket. It fits perfectly and the 2-element socket locks in place like OEM. The “bright” element is the fog light. The “dim” element is the marker light. I am still experimenting with different bulbs. The lens is not designed for projecting light rearward. A 7443 LED seems to work the best for providing a bright red fog light.
    Maybe someone (Chong?) will design a circuit using an Arduino that will read the LIN Bus and close a relay when the fog lamp switch is pressed. This is beyond my skill set.
     
     
     






  11. Like
    Don Ridley got a reaction from wrshultz in Liftgate release switch upgrade   
    The original switch had one large button for front fog lights.
     
    This is my latest project, rear fog light. Details to follow soon.
     

  12. Like
    Don Ridley got a reaction from mrtn in Power Liftgate kit available   
    The installation was not easy and I need to work on some bugs with the manufacturer. Once everything is resolved I will post more details.
    liftgate 2-2.mp4
  13. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from jrm223 in CD player removal   
    The radio and CD player are one unit. 
    Looks similar to this.

  14. Like
    Don Ridley got a reaction from jrm223 in Nightmare ECU Problem   
    There are several main computer modules. The Body Control Module BCM and Power Control Module are the main ones. You must load any module with firmware and a configuration file specific to your VIN. Your only hope to avoid the dealer is to find a used module from a vehicle that is virtually identical. But there is a possibility this may not work either.
  15. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from jrm223 in Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) battery   
    The BMS did not work for an AGM battery. It holds the state of charge (SOC) at 80% and only applies 12.2-12.7V to maintain the state. This is too low for an AGM that needs to be around 12.8-12.9V.
     
    I disabled BMS using Forscan and selected a different battery type: T7 IF 75ah 650CCA. Now the charging system increased the SOC from 80% to over 90%. At 90% the charge voltage dropped to 14.7V. This is the recommended float voltage by Odyssey for the AGM. Now the battery is holding 12.8-12.9V . It looks like I found the proper setting.
  16. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from windguy in Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) battery   
    The battery in my 2016 1.6L Ecoboost TC was getting weak. Thanks to the information in this post I bought an Odyssey 48-720 AGM replacement battery. This larger battery fit easily once I removed the plastic spacer in the battery box (see photo). I had to bend the clamp to make up for the added height. The battery box cover fit without any modification.
     
    The 1.6L has the battery monitoring system (BMS). This system is not on the 2.5L TC. The BMS regulates charging to optimize fuel efficiency. For example, it increases the charge voltage when you coast downhill. The BMS must be reset when a new battery is installed. I do not know if the BMS will be affected by an AGM versus a flooded acid battery. My concern is the AGM has a higher full charge voltage (around 12.9V) compared to 12.4V for a flooded battery.
     
    I used Forscan to reset the BMS and all battery data was reset (age, state of charge etc.). The Odyssey has more capacity and CCA than the stock battery: 720CCA, 69AH. Forscan allows selection of different battery types (see photo). The stock selection was #11. I initially tried #0A but it did not seem to charge the battery over 12.3-12.5V. Plus I was not sure what the "IF" in the description meant. I hoped it identified an AGM battery but I don't think is does. I recently changed the setting to #03 (80AH, 700CCA). I don't have enough data to make any conclusions yet but it appears to charge the battery to a higher voltage...approx. 12.6V.
     
    Has anyone with a 2.5L and AGM battery monitored the voltage? I use a USB charger with voltage display plugged into the cigarette lighter.


     

  17. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from jrm223 in Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) battery   
    The BMS did not work for an AGM battery. It holds the state of charge (SOC) at 80% and only applies 12.2-12.7V to maintain the state. This is too low for an AGM that needs to be around 12.8-12.9V.
     
    I disabled BMS using Forscan and selected a different battery type: T7 IF 75ah 650CCA. Now the charging system increased the SOC from 80% to over 90%. At 90% the charge voltage dropped to 14.7V. This is the recommended float voltage by Odyssey for the AGM. Now the battery is holding 12.8-12.9V . It looks like I found the proper setting.
  18. Like
    Don Ridley got a reaction from jrm223 in 2019 TC Alarm System control   
    If you are going to write new configurations to any of the modules you must use a reliable device. The Forscan community universally agrees the recommend device is necessary. The risk of bricking your ECU is too great. The process is risky enough without sketchy hardware.
  19. Like
    Don Ridley reacted to i86hotdogs in elusive "upper rear tail light" where to get?   
    Reviving a dead thread here.
     
    I did some shopping at car-part dot com. Where you can search the world (literally) for a certain part down to the make and model. I found several TC Titanium's unfortunately in a totaled state. But there were a handful with the upper reflector still intact. I reached out to one of the junkyards for a set. $70 and two business days later, BOOM I'm part of the elusive club!


  20. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from davidparker in Curt Hitch Class 2 or 3?   
    2" is more versatile. A simple insert converts to 1.25". 
  21. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from davidparker in Curt Hitch Class 2 or 3?   
    2" is more versatile. A simple insert converts to 1.25". 
  22. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from jrm223 in Can I add OEM Cruise control to vehicle that came without it   
    ITSGuy,
     
    Your Transit 250 is significantly different from the Transit Connect on this forum. The programming in Ford vehicles varies greatly and even vehicles built on the same platform (Focus, TC, Fiesta) don't have programming that is interchangeable. Forscan can't program every option for every Ford vehicle. The Forscan developers have spent more time on the popular vehicles and much less time on vehicles like the TC and Transit. As a user, we can only see the options and functions that apply to the vehicle we can connect to. So none of us here know what Forscan can do on a full size Transit unless we own one.
     
    But, having said all that, here is what you can try/research:
     
    1. Verify the system is reading the cruise control button activity. Find the PIDs in the BCM, PCM or other module related to the cruise control button and verify they change state when pressed. Of course, if the cruise control lights on the IPC illuminate then you know the comm BUS is transmitting the commands from the buttons.
    2. Maybe the IPC needs to be configured/programmed. There may be a pre-programmed function or you may have to change values in each register (as built data). Check the Transit forum to see if anyone has done this. Study the IPC as built files from several Transits with cruise control (find a van on Autotrader and use the VIN to get the file from the Motorrcraft website). Ideally, find your exact van (year + options) with cruise control and compare the IPC as built data. Change the registers that are different and see if it works. This is tedious. Back-up EVERY module before you make any changes.
    3. The Forscan forum may have some info but it covers every Ford vehicle worldwide so finding a post that covers your exact vehicle is unlikely.
     
    There is a solution, but it may take some work to find it.
     
  23. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from jrm223 in Can I add OEM Cruise control to vehicle that came without it   
    Good work eggman14. You get bonus points for backing up ALL of your modules. And now you are one more example of why you should buy the recommended (and more expensive) ELM-327 adapter. Now you can leave the MX+ plugged in and use it to read data with your smartphone anytime.
  24. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from dirt huffer in tinting front windshield   
    The 3M Crystalline product significantly reduces IR heat without needing tint. It works very well but is expensive. 
  25. Like
    Don Ridley got a reaction from eggman14 in Can I add OEM Cruise control to vehicle that came without it   
    This may help:
    https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2894&p=12205&hilit=abs+error+u2300#p12205
     
    One thing to try is remove the vehicle profile from Forscan when it boots. This will cause the program to read all the modules and configurations from scratch. Maybe this will help when re-loading the original configuration etc.
×