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Don Ridley

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  1. Like
    Don Ridley got a reaction from jrm223 in ForScan   
    Forscan has only one version. It differs from other "apps" because it guarantees nothing and the user is 100% responsible for learning how to use it. It's a step above hacking. But, it can save the user hundreds of dollars and more importantly, it allows options and features a dealer won't implement.
  2. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from jrm223 in ForScan   
    You must have a PC (not Mac) to make any configuration changes using Forscan. The phone app can read data and reset CEL and DTCs only. 
     
    https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6142
     
  3. Like
    Don Ridley got a reaction from jrm223 in 2014+ standard side mirrors   
    This post shows how to remove the door panels
     
  4. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from windguy in Upgrade instrument cluster 2016   
    Removing the cover can be tough. Carefully pry with a tool that won't bend or mark the plastic. A firm tug will unclip it.
     
    The IPC connector self extracts by rotating the bracket on the plug.


  5. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from Al W. in Interior panels for 2018 TC LWB   
    Check a local salvage yard. 
  6. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from Greastart in Recovery/tow hook   
    Thanks for the replies. I will contact the dealer. I will never need the tow hook, but now I really want one.
  7. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from flyeredup1973 in Add circuits directly to Aux Junction Box using OEM terminals   
    The Auxiliary Junction Box (AJB) is located in the access panel in the right rear of the van. The AJB has a lot of spare fuse slots for switched and constant power. The AJB is made by Lear in the UK or EU and finding a US source for the terminals has been a challenge. After much trial and error and with the help of DonShockley, here is a local source for the terminals needed to properly add circuits to the AJB:
     http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/1-968857-3-CUT-STRIP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKpfjTZYxfnESgPEJGoSWVDw%3D
    http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/1-968859-3/?qs=%2Fha2pyFaduhqy3aI3kZvUXP11VT0ejBFP6KL61KptWcoM%2bOzVMsngg%3D%3D
     
    The 968857-3 terminals are for #14-10AWG wire. The 968859-3 is for #10AWG and larger. You will need a crimping tool but they can be found for around $15. The only problem with this solution is you need to buy 100pcs for most terminal sizes. I have all the terminals I will need but maybe others can share the costs. Adding circuits properly and safely is well worth the cost and effort. No unsightly splices or piggy-back solutions!
    The AJB is fed by a 70 amp fuse so you can safely add a 20 or 30 amp circuit and numerous smaller ones for Led lights or other low power accessories. The AJB has two types of spare fuse slots: one has single-sided contact with the power buss bar and other has double-sided contact. Use the double sided ones for high amperage circuits. You can see the copper contacts from the front of the AJB.
    AMP_Lear terminal spec.pdf
  8. Cool
    Don Ridley reacted to Slamsit in 2010 XLT Slammed   
    Another shot:

  9. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from windguy in ForScan   
    Here was the response from Forscan:
    Hello,
    FORScan recognizes vehicle by PCM strategy number. If you want FORScan work correctly with your new BCM, you need to remove vehicle profile after the replacement. More info:
    https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=9196
    As for new options availability, please provide more details.
     
    If" PCM" is not a typo, maybe this is the problem. The PCM strategy may not be as up to date as the BCM. You don't need to update the vehicle profile if you connected to Forscan for the first time after the BCM update. Bottom line is we can't get dark mode to work on some vehicles. You guys can try contacting Forscan if you want to troubleshoot this. They would need specifics on your configuration, logs etc..
    contact@forscan.org
     
     
  10. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from windguy in ForScan   
    One explanation why Forscan isn't working may be that Forscan determines which options and functions are available based on the VIN or model year. Updating a module won't turn on the new functions in Forscan. I have sent Forscan an email. Let's see if they respond.
     
    My TC has the BCM calibration that doesn't support dark mode so I can't test anything.
     
     
     
     
  11. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from zalienz in No AC after Carwash   
    From the service manual on a 2016:

  12. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from windguy in ForScan   
    The WRITE button is used to make changes to hex data in that register. I have not used the RESTORE function.
     
    I don't know why the as built data does not exactly match the Forscan data.
     
    You can change individual hex bits in the IPC, ACM but not the BCM. All BCM changes will be done using the menu selections. There are configurations in the central configuration that we can't see and can only be changed by the functions built into the menus.
     
    Save a copy of every module. A mistake in one may propogate into others.
     
    There are many tutorials. This one is for the F-150 and explains how to change individual hex bits.
     
    FORScan Tutorial.pdf
  13. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from windguy in ForScan   
    Your experience is normal.
    1. Your battery is near the end of its lifetime. My 2016 shows 30% life left in the battery monitoring system (a feature on the 1.6l Ecoboost).
    2. The DRLs and "run" position when using Forscan puts a big load on the battery.
    3. Now I ALWAYS use a battery charger when making changes using Forscan. When the vehicle was new I got away without using one.
    4. Reading data and DTCs don't require any battery backup/protection.
  14. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from windguy in Footwell Lighting?   
    I added multi-color LED footwell lights to my 2016 TC. Amazon has dozens of these lights for $30-40. I chose a set that has a simple controller and (4) 9” tubes. I only used 2 tubes and modified the cigarette lighter power cord to connect to the interior light circuit.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I04Z7Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
     
    I mounted one tube on the bottom of the glove box. Remove the glove box by carefully removing the pins on the bottom (you can see in my photos I was not so careful). I trimmed some of the plastic on the glove box to mount the tube flush. I verified the tube was not visible from the driver or passenger seat.
     
    I mounted the other tube under the steering wheel. This one simply zip-ties to the metal frame.
     
    Wiring:
    Cut off and insulate the wires for the unused light tubes. I added extension wire for the driver’s side LEDs (there are 4 wires). This made fishing the wire across the bottom of the dashboard easier. I installed the controller in the glove box. The controller is in the glove box and wire feeds over the back of the box.
    Power will come from the interior light circuit on the Body Control Module behind the glove box. Access is easy with the glove box removed. Connector C2280F (marked on the BCM) has 20 wires. Pin 12 is a brown and green striped wire. This is the power for the interior lights. Find the BRN/GRN wirefootwell.docxfootwell.docx coming off the connector.  Use a POSI-TAP connector to splice into the BRN/GRN wire. The TC wiring is 18 or 22 awg. The red and grey 20-22 awg connectors work well unless your extension wires are larger.
    https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Dynamics-Posi-Tap-Wire-Connector/dp/B009TG686Q/ref=sr_1_21?keywords=positap&qid=1560916105&s=automotive&sr=1-21
     
    Check if you have connected to the the right wire by measuring the voltage on the POSI-TAP with the interior lights on, then off.
    The GND connection can be any metal on the dashboard frame. I drilled a new hole and used a sheet metal screw.
    The controller has a lot of modes but I selected the dark blue color and never change it. The LEDs change color by applying voltage to different wires. If you ONLY want one color (e.g. green) you can omit the controller and connect power to the wire that gives you the desired color. Some colors require multiple wires to be powered (white=all wires powered). Don’t worry, the LEDs won’t be damaged if you connect power backwards.
    This is a simple upgrade and using the POSI-TAP connectors saves a lot of hassle. A nice feature of the connector is it won’t cut the wire being tapped.  If you tap the wrong wire, just wrap electrical tape around the tiny hole it made. The LEDs will flicker at the end of the dimming function on the interior lights.
     


    footwell.docx



  15. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from windguy in Footwell Lighting?   
    I added multi-color LED footwell lights to my 2016 TC. Amazon has dozens of these lights for $30-40. I chose a set that has a simple controller and (4) 9” tubes. I only used 2 tubes and modified the cigarette lighter power cord to connect to the interior light circuit.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I04Z7Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
     
    I mounted one tube on the bottom of the glove box. Remove the glove box by carefully removing the pins on the bottom (you can see in my photos I was not so careful). I trimmed some of the plastic on the glove box to mount the tube flush. I verified the tube was not visible from the driver or passenger seat.
     
    I mounted the other tube under the steering wheel. This one simply zip-ties to the metal frame.
     
    Wiring:
    Cut off and insulate the wires for the unused light tubes. I added extension wire for the driver’s side LEDs (there are 4 wires). This made fishing the wire across the bottom of the dashboard easier. I installed the controller in the glove box. The controller is in the glove box and wire feeds over the back of the box.
    Power will come from the interior light circuit on the Body Control Module behind the glove box. Access is easy with the glove box removed. Connector C2280F (marked on the BCM) has 20 wires. Pin 12 is a brown and green striped wire. This is the power for the interior lights. Find the BRN/GRN wirefootwell.docxfootwell.docx coming off the connector.  Use a POSI-TAP connector to splice into the BRN/GRN wire. The TC wiring is 18 or 22 awg. The red and grey 20-22 awg connectors work well unless your extension wires are larger.
    https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Dynamics-Posi-Tap-Wire-Connector/dp/B009TG686Q/ref=sr_1_21?keywords=positap&qid=1560916105&s=automotive&sr=1-21
     
    Check if you have connected to the the right wire by measuring the voltage on the POSI-TAP with the interior lights on, then off.
    The GND connection can be any metal on the dashboard frame. I drilled a new hole and used a sheet metal screw.
    The controller has a lot of modes but I selected the dark blue color and never change it. The LEDs change color by applying voltage to different wires. If you ONLY want one color (e.g. green) you can omit the controller and connect power to the wire that gives you the desired color. Some colors require multiple wires to be powered (white=all wires powered). Don’t worry, the LEDs won’t be damaged if you connect power backwards.
    This is a simple upgrade and using the POSI-TAP connectors saves a lot of hassle. A nice feature of the connector is it won’t cut the wire being tapped.  If you tap the wrong wire, just wrap electrical tape around the tiny hole it made. The LEDs will flicker at the end of the dimming function on the interior lights.
     


    footwell.docx



  16. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from windguy in Footwell Lighting?   
    BCM connector layout and pin-out

  17. Like
    Don Ridley got a reaction from mrtn in Euro Rear Fog Light modification   
    I saw a guy on the Focus RS forum was trying to add a rear fog light his RS. The Euro RS comes with a rear fog light you turn on from the light switch module.  Based on his findings, the US vehicles will respond to the light switch signal by illuminating the icon on the cluster but the BCM does not output the signal to turn on the rear fog light. The BCM firmware can only be updated by a dealer and no dealer will install the Euro BCM firmware. The Focus RS guy gave up an added a separate switch. I looked for another solution.
    I bought a light switch from eBay UK. I confirmed the rear fog light illuminates on the cluster and the BCM does not output a signal. I tried in vain to find a signal from the light switch module I could use to turn on the fog light. The switch is only sending out LIN Bus packets, there is no physical switching of signals/power.
    Next, I focused on the power that was controlling the LED on the cluster and found the circuitry for the rear fog LED on the cluster circuit board (I used my spare cluster from a recent cluster upgrade). The LED does not turn on/off with a simple on/off voltage and the power is pulse width modulated (PWM). After a lot of testing and some circuit design, I found a circuit that will turn on a rear fog light by pressing the button on the light switch.
    I built a circuit that reads the voltage on the cluster LED and turns it into a signal I can use to drive a relay. I know this is probably too complicated for most, but it is a functional solution. See the attached sketch of the circuit diagram. Half of the circuit is home-made and the other half is a relay driver that I bought on Amazon. I soldered a wire on the cluster circuit board for the LED signal and connected it to the circuit (I briefly panicked when the new, upgraded cluster PCB was completely different from the old, but eventually found the same circuit components). I used power from the front fog lights to operate the circuit and the rear fog lamp so nothing is powered if the front fog lights are not on. The circuit is under the dash cover behind the IPC.
    Next, I had to modify the socket for the rear marker light. I bought a used wiring harness with all of the rear bulbs and sockets. I carved out the marker light socket to match the keys on the larger socket. It fits perfectly and the 2-element socket locks in place like OEM. The “bright” element is the fog light. The “dim” element is the marker light. I am still experimenting with different bulbs. The lens is not designed for projecting light rearward. A 7443 LED seems to work the best for providing a bright red fog light.
    Maybe someone (Chong?) will design a circuit using an Arduino that will read the LIN Bus and close a relay when the fog lamp switch is pressed. This is beyond my skill set.
     
     
     






  18. Like
    Don Ridley got a reaction from mrtn in Euro Rear Fog Light modification   
    I saw a guy on the Focus RS forum was trying to add a rear fog light his RS. The Euro RS comes with a rear fog light you turn on from the light switch module.  Based on his findings, the US vehicles will respond to the light switch signal by illuminating the icon on the cluster but the BCM does not output the signal to turn on the rear fog light. The BCM firmware can only be updated by a dealer and no dealer will install the Euro BCM firmware. The Focus RS guy gave up an added a separate switch. I looked for another solution.
    I bought a light switch from eBay UK. I confirmed the rear fog light illuminates on the cluster and the BCM does not output a signal. I tried in vain to find a signal from the light switch module I could use to turn on the fog light. The switch is only sending out LIN Bus packets, there is no physical switching of signals/power.
    Next, I focused on the power that was controlling the LED on the cluster and found the circuitry for the rear fog LED on the cluster circuit board (I used my spare cluster from a recent cluster upgrade). The LED does not turn on/off with a simple on/off voltage and the power is pulse width modulated (PWM). After a lot of testing and some circuit design, I found a circuit that will turn on a rear fog light by pressing the button on the light switch.
    I built a circuit that reads the voltage on the cluster LED and turns it into a signal I can use to drive a relay. I know this is probably too complicated for most, but it is a functional solution. See the attached sketch of the circuit diagram. Half of the circuit is home-made and the other half is a relay driver that I bought on Amazon. I soldered a wire on the cluster circuit board for the LED signal and connected it to the circuit (I briefly panicked when the new, upgraded cluster PCB was completely different from the old, but eventually found the same circuit components). I used power from the front fog lights to operate the circuit and the rear fog lamp so nothing is powered if the front fog lights are not on. The circuit is under the dash cover behind the IPC.
    Next, I had to modify the socket for the rear marker light. I bought a used wiring harness with all of the rear bulbs and sockets. I carved out the marker light socket to match the keys on the larger socket. It fits perfectly and the 2-element socket locks in place like OEM. The “bright” element is the fog light. The “dim” element is the marker light. I am still experimenting with different bulbs. The lens is not designed for projecting light rearward. A 7443 LED seems to work the best for providing a bright red fog light.
    Maybe someone (Chong?) will design a circuit using an Arduino that will read the LIN Bus and close a relay when the fog lamp switch is pressed. This is beyond my skill set.
     
     
     






  19. Like
    Don Ridley got a reaction from Chris Rogers in Upgrade instrument cluster 2016   
    I am trying to upgrade the instrument cluster on my 2016 TC XLT. Most 2014-2017 TCs have a monochrome center display between the speedo and tach. Titanium trim vehicles usually have a larger, color LCD display. I thought I could use color LCD  Focus cluster and had limited success. The cluster worked, but it did not fit exactly. The bezels around the speedo and tach on the TC are very deep and this makes the Focus and Escape cluster incompatible. Too bad because these clusters are readily available at salvage yards for about $50.
     
    Attached are photos of my Focus experiment and an actual 2016 Titanium trim TC cluster (from a vehicle on Autotrader).
     
    So, I need to find a used cluster from a 2016 TC Titanium. I will work the internet and salvage company sites. If anyone has a lead on this very rare part, please let me know. Buying it from a dealer is not an option because it costs around $450 with a $300 core charge (another case where Ford does not want you to upgrade your vehicle).
     
    I think the part number I am looking for is FT1Z-10849-F.
     
    Plus, I am not 100% sure I can get the configuration file (IPC As Built) to work properly so I don't want to spend a fortune on something that won't work.
     
     


  20. Like
    Don Ridley got a reaction from windguy in Footwell Lighting?   
    Yes. I installed led strip lights from Amazon. They have dozens of choices for about $20. I connected to the power for the cabin lights located on the BCM behind the glove box. Overall, an easy project.
     
    Something like this
    Car LED Strip Lights, 4pcs 48 USB LED Interior Lights, MultiColor Music Car Strip Light Under Dash Lighting Kit with Sound Active Function and Remote Controller, DC 5V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QWZVQC1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_S-99Cb0YQJA1S
     
    I cut off the unused strips and cut and spliced the wires to length 
  21. Thanks
    Don Ridley got a reaction from windguy in Liftgate release switch upgrade   
    As part of another (unsuccessful) project, I found the trunk release switch from a Focus will also release the liftgate on a TC. I bought a switch from a local salvage yard for $30. It is easy to install by removing the side panel and popping out the switch panel with plastic panel removal tools. The switch sends a signal over the LIN (low speed network) to control the lights, trunk release etc.. Apparently the trunk release LIN message also releases the liftgate (actually unlatches to door, not just unlock like the button on the key fob). The switch will not activate if the vehicle is in gear.
     
    Not sure if this is useful, but I had the switch so I installed it. I think a 2012+ Focus switch will work.
     
     


  22. Haha
    Don Ridley got a reaction from davidparker in MS-RT TRANSIT CONNECT   
    Racing stripes being acceptable is a matter of opinion.... I am sure we all agree this driver has issues.

  23. Haha
    Don Ridley got a reaction from davidparker in MS-RT TRANSIT CONNECT   
    Racing stripes being acceptable is a matter of opinion.... I am sure we all agree this driver has issues.

  24. Haha
    Don Ridley got a reaction from davidparker in MS-RT TRANSIT CONNECT   
    Racing stripes being acceptable is a matter of opinion.... I am sure we all agree this driver has issues.

  25. Like
    Don Ridley got a reaction from herb in How the heck do you jack one of these things up?   
    There is a arrow in the plastic moulding along the bottom on my TC the shows the jack points.
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