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Fifty150

T.C. Member
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  1. Haha
    Fifty150 got a reaction from KevinRollin in Hatches or access panels in rear interior side panels?   
    More fun for Customs and Border Protection agents.  
  2. Thanks
    Fifty150 got a reaction from KevinRollin in 2016 Driver's Foot Rest   
    Your plan A should be to buy the correct floor mats.
  3. Like
    Fifty150 got a reaction from jrm223 in Disable auto door locking?   
    I love being able to do that. My favorite feature.
  4. Like
    Fifty150 got a reaction from OLDSCHOOLFOOL in CD player removal   
    I think you're referring to the dash kit for installing an aftermarket radio.  Sure, I guess you could put in a box instead of a radio.  But as yet, nobody manufactures or sells a radio delete kit.
  5. Like
    Fifty150 got a reaction from OLDSCHOOLFOOL in CD player removal   
    I guess you will have to fabricate that yourself.  I haven't seen a radio delete kit with a dashboard cubby hole.
  6. Like
    Fifty150 got a reaction from jrm223 in Disable Perimeter Lighting   
    Notice how many are in commercial use, and there's nobody on this forum who owns 10 or more vans.  
  7. Thanks
    Fifty150 got a reaction from jrm223 in Disable Perimeter Lighting   
    Install LED lamps which have a lower amp draw.  Lights will still be on.  But the amount of electricity used will less than half.  Most of the 3 watt and 5 watt lamps can be replaced with LED which only require about 1 watt or less
  8. Like
    Fifty150 got a reaction from jrm223 in turn off or shorten duration lights are on   
    High beams and signal lamps do not turn on either.
  9. Like
    Fifty150 got a reaction from jrm223 in Disable Perimeter Lighting   
    Nope. It can be done. There's 1 way to do it.  You have to get a software update.  Then the computer can be reprogrammed.  While you are already at the dealership, let them do it. Unless you enjoy doing it yourself.
     
     
     
     
    Unfortunately, that's step 1.
     
     
     
    I gained 3 horsepower, and now get 36 MPG
     
     
  10. Haha
    Fifty150 got a reaction from jrm223 in 2019 TC Wagon Backup assist Fault   
    Will your dealer give you a new van for the mud on your mirror?
     
     
     
     
     
  11. Thanks
    Fifty150 got a reaction from OLDSCHOOLFOOL in center caps for a 2012   
    Really cool how you are doing so much to get the look you want.  
  12. Like
    Fifty150 got a reaction from OLDSCHOOLFOOL in Cool orange repeaters.   
    You could just add a brighter LED bulb.
  13. Like
    Fifty150 got a reaction from JamesRich in Rough Ride   
    Exactly. Compared to the Econoline and Express vans, Transit Connect is a dream.  But it's still a commercial vehicle.  Not a luxury car.  
  14. Like
    Fifty150 got a reaction from OLDSCHOOLFOOL in How Do You Check Engine Hours?   
    Forget about it.  Just like buying any other used car: perform all maintenance, as if it weren't done.  It's yours now.  Start off with new oil, transmission fluid, coolant, spark plugs, air filter........
  15. Thanks
    Fifty150 got a reaction from jrm223 in LIFT!!   
    There must be a little wiggle room.  I doubt if any tire will burst when you exceed the recommended load rating.  I am fairly certain that load rating is recommended, with the thought in mind that some people will exceed it.
  16. Thanks
    Fifty150 got a reaction from mrtn in Please help! Transmission clunking hard when putting into gear   
    You can order a rebuild kit, and do it yourself.  There are YouTube videos. You can buy a manual. My skillset is limited. I can't do it myself.  But maybe you have the skills.
     
     


  17. Like
    Fifty150 got a reaction from Willygee in 2015 TC transmission fluid change   
    The fill check plug on the side is used when ATF is at 85 - 93 C.
     
    You will need some sort of scan tool or app to read the ATF temperature via the OBDII port.  A popular setup is HS/MS Can OBDII dongle, via USB, to a laptop with FORScan.  You can forget about trying to use a point & shoot thermometer, as you will get a lot of different readings, and none will be accurate to what the car's computer sees from the sensor in the transmission valve body.  


     
     
    At the correct operating temperature, your ATF has closed the cooler bypass valve, is flowing in a complete loop through the cooling system, and has expanded.  This is the correct fill level for the fill check plug.  From what you have described, your ATF was not at the correct temperature when you opened the fill check plug.  This will result in an overfill condition.  
     
    Not entirely catastrophic.  Excess hot & expanded ATF will probably purge from the vent cap.  But the best idea is to now adjust the fluid level to where it is correct.  
     
    Between you, me, the tree, and nobody else - I think that transmission engineers design automatic transmissions with a certain level of "oops factor".  They know that some people will make a little mistake with underfill & overfill, or what if there is a fluid leak causing some fluid to be lost?  Everyone will tell you that you should have the correct fluid level, and I agree with that.  But you're probably safe by a quart within the correct fill level.  Meaning 1/2 quart low or high would still be safe.  Not ideal.  But safe.  After all, why is there a hashmark range on dipsticks?  Otherwise, the dipstick would just have one line, or hole, and you better be at that exact level.
     
    The factory fill on this 6F35, as published in earlier versions of owners manuals, is 4 liters.  Not 4 quarts.  4 liters.  Fill with 4 liters.  Drive until transmission fluid temperature is 185 - 200 F.  Then open the fill check plug.  If nothing comes out, then add fluid.  If fluid is coming out, wait until nothing is coming out.  Now reinstall the plug.  
     
    I'm lazy,.  My 3rd fill is 4 liters.  I'm done.  I add 4 liters of Mercon LV, and then drive it until the next transmission service.  It's not right.  It's just what I do.
     
    Don't consider anything I write to be advice or recommended.  You do what you want to do.  It won't be my fault when something goes wrong.  You won't be able to say, "5150 told me to....."
     
     
  18. Like
    Fifty150 got a reaction from Kristin in Can I swap 2nd row bench for captain's seats?   
    Of course it's possible.  It's possible to do whatever you want.  You just have to be willing to do the work, to make it work.  I doubt if it will be a simple bolt-on swap.
     
    First, remove the seats you already have.  Then get the seats you want, plus all of the mounting hardware for those seats.  
     
    Now you may need to remove the hardware for your seats, and install the hardware for the seats you want.  You may have to cut away what you don't want, and weld in a new piece of flooring to mount the seats you want.  
  19. Haha
    Fifty150 got a reaction from mrtn in Oil Choice   
    They got me with the co-branding and cross marketing.  Just did an oil change with the "Ford recommends Castrol" and "Castrol recommends Bosch".  
     



     
     
     
     
     
     
  20. Thanks
    Fifty150 got a reaction from operating engineer O/O in Oil   
    Purchased and submitted rebate on November 03, 2019.  I got the check in the mail today, November 12, 2019.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
  21. Like
    Fifty150 got a reaction from operating engineer O/O in Oil   
    I got some from Amazon when they had a rebate, and Amazon had a really low price.  Pennzoil full synthetic 5W-20.  It seemed okay.  
     
    I'm fairly confident that any major name brand, or store brand from a well known store, which labels the oil with the API starburst, donut, & GF rating is useable.  Useable for me.
     
    Some high end oils have better better grade base stock.  Sure, I acknowledge that even though I can't tell the difference, there is a difference between group II, group III, whatever oil.  And I trust that some oil formulations have different additives in different amounts,   However, I don't have a high performance car.  My thinking is that any modern oil with SN, SN Plus, and GR5 rating will be good enough for my car, as long as I'm changing the oil frequently.  
     
    As motor oil is such a hot button topic, I'm open to anyone else's explanation of TBN, Moly, Boron, et cetera.....and how that will benefit this little naturally aspirated 2.5L Duratec.  I'll probably still buy whatever is on sale, with a coupon, offering a rebate.  It's all brand name oil.  Even Amazon.com oil & Wal*Mart oil are able to meet API & GF specifications.  And I can't think of any over the counter, name brand oil, which will not meet Ford specification.
     
    In my youth, I spent more money.  A lot more money.  I used boutique brand oil.  I can't tell if any of those oil formulations had a long term benefit to those cars.  I do know, that without a doubt, when they claimed that the oil would yield better mileage and more power - I did not see it happen.  Royal Purple, Red Line, and Lucas Oil did not make a Honda Civic faster.
  22. Like
    Fifty150 got a reaction from operating engineer O/O in Oil   
    It looks like Havoline is worth the money.  People much more knowledgeable than me, could view the numbers on what's in the bottle, and weigh in on what's good and what's not so good.  There are much more expensive oil formulations.  The more expensive oil may be better.  But for $8.15 for 5 quarts, Havoline has won my business.  PQIA tested the 5W-30 weight.  The 5W-20 is probably pretty close when it comes to the additive package.  Probably almost the same amounts of magic juju to clean the engine and hold contaminants in suspension.  High Mileage Oil is suppose to also have fairy dust which conditions and swells the seals.  
     
     



     
     
    I'll let you guys know if anything bad happens from using this oil.
     
  23. Like
    Fifty150 got a reaction from herb in Troubleshooting serious vibration   
    Just a thought; you should Mercon LV.  Ford automatic transmissions have been known to fail because the wrong fluid was used.  Not to say that you have to use Ford Motorcraft brand.  You could use other brands which meet specifications, or are Mercon vLV licensed.  But you do not want to use just any type of ATF sold over the counter.
     
    When Ford began using Mercon V, a lot of people were buying Dex/Merc ATF and/or multi-vehicle ATF.  Those ATF do not meet Mercon V spec.  Those transmissions failed. 
     
    The 6F35 uses a low viscosity fluid.  Be sure that your choice of ATF is labeled for Mercon LV.  Most of the over-the-counter ATF are not Mercon LV spec.  It's not too late to correct this.  And be sure that you perform a triple drain & fill, or a transmission return line exchange.  I cannot stress how important it is to have the correct ATF.
     
    Glad that you got some new spark plugs and coil over plug ignitions, and that it worked out.
     
    On that note, what brands did you use?  Did you stick with Motorcraft, since it's what most people recommend?  The common theory is that Ford engines operate best with Motorcraft plugs and ignitions.  I don't buy it.  I think that there are brands which may not work well, and then there are people who buy less expensive spark plugs.  To save money, some people will install the least expensive spark plugs.  Commonly, that would be a copper spark plug.  Not a great idea when your car came with finewire platinum, double platinum, or iridium spark plugs.  The other common mistake is to use spark plugs right out of the box, without checking the gap.  Some plugs say that the recommended part number for your application is correct, and that you are not suppose to change the gap.  Then there is the controversy that today's modern engines and modern spark plugs do not require anti-seize.  Then when you're looking at coil over plug ignition, Motorcraft can cost up to 3X as much as a product which you've never seen or heard of.  
  24. Thanks
    Fifty150 got a reaction from davidparker in Curt Hitch Class 2 or 3?   
    Go with the class 3.  You don't want a class 2, only to have to buy all new accessories, since you already have what you need for a 2" receiver.  
  25. Thanks
    Fifty150 got a reaction from operating engineer O/O in Daytime Running Lamps (DRL)   
    Based on personal experience, I prefer the old fashion adapter with a wire.  OBDII connected to USB port.  
     
    I bought an inexpensive WiFi OBDII adapter from Amazon.  First thing which I noticed was that there were monitors just not available.  With a wired connector, I was able to see transmission gear, transmission gear ratio, torque converter slip......not the end of the world.  I could still monitor all the temps I wanted.  I contacted the Amazon Marketplace seller.  I also mentioned that the app was not able to connect to the car's computer in "key on, engine off".  I had to start the car, then the app would connect and display information.  Sometimes, that took a few minutes.  Again, not the end of the world.  They sent me a replacement.  Same results.  Replacement unit worked, or didn't work, exactly as the original unit.  I contacted the seller again.  The seller refunded the purchase.  I now have 2 of these units, free after refund.  But what good are they?  I can use them for a basic connection to monitor my operating temperatures.  Which is fine, and I do use them for that.  But they are useless if I want to use Forscan for any programming.  I just can't trust something like that.  So stay away from the cheap stuff.
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