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Fifty150

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Everything posted by Fifty150

  1. There are coolers which can cool engine oil and transmission fluid. With the tube & fin style coolers, I use a special kit for mounting. For anyone who really wants to add a transmission cooler, you will need to splice into the fluid return line between the OEM cooler and the bypass valve. Number 3 on the diagram.
  2. There's already a subforum and thread for wheel fitment. You need to compare your OEM wheel to the wheel that you want to use.
  3. Wow! Amazing. Can you recap for us, the project timeline?
  4. I guess nobody is worthy of his intellect. In a way, I'm glad that I don't deserve it.
  5. I wonder why this guy even bothers. After he posts a bunch of stuff, he goes back to delete everything.
  6. Originally, all vans were imported to North America as passenger wagons. Then the seats, door glass, airbags, seat belts, etc., were removed. So it should be the same HVAC system, minus the duct work and vents blowing to the 3rd row seats. I'm not certain if the configuration for cargo vans has the floor vent under the driver and passenger seat which blow hot air to the 2nd row passengers' feet, or the cold air vents in the "B" pillar behind the driver and passenger doors. The HVAC system itself, should be the same fan, heater core, AC compressor, AC condenser, AC evaporator, etc. For commercial use, there are rooftop cooling systems. If you are building a camper van with a cargo van, there are rooftop fan and vent options. Hot air rises. Cold air sinks. A fan and vent should release heat, and circulate the cold air. Some are designed with a thermostat switch so that it activates as needed. https://youtu.be/fNNSVDdzUv4?t=95
  7. Here are a few videos which might help you.
  8. Go to another mechanic. A decent mechanic doesn't just put in a can of refrigerant and quotes $2,000. Assuming that the compressor is working, and not busted, how does the mechanic know that the source of the fluid loss is at the condenser? The AC system has a compressor and a condenser. Although either or both parts can fail; there could be a leak, or multiple leaks, in the lines or at the fittings. A tracer dye may help with finding the leak. In some cars. Fuses blow and relays go bad. Look for a mechanic who will do a little more diagnostics. Some shops specialize in air conditioning.
  9. 2013 model year is slightly different than 2014. Here are the OEM specs. You need to check the specs on the wheels that you have.
  10. For the next person who is having an issue with their van being "emissions ready", here are some Parameter IDs that you can use with FORScan. I hope it helps.
  11. There's a lot more going on than I can understand. In theory, the car's computer measures the volume of air, and the temperature of the air, in order to adjust the amount of fuel. Cold air is denser, and more fuel is added. Hot air is not as dense, so less fuel is added. In theory, the car is most efficient with hot air. That is why OEM engineering is an enclosed air box under the hood, with the intake pipe going over the front of the engine. Cold air will cause a richer fuel mix, which may or may not be just wasted fuel. Tuners are allegedly able to recalibrate the air/fuel mix, timing, spark, etc to take advantage of that and produce more power. A cold air intake, or even just an oiled filter, may simply just be a waste of money and fuel in the mix, without custom tuning. I don't know. What I do know is that the Transit Connect intake air temperature, the last time that I looked, a few days ago, was 120 degrees. When I looked at the intake air temperature for the F-150, which has a cold air intake, was 54. I will assume that ambient air temperatures were about the same. Intakes do "work" in the sense that yes, you do get cold air as opposed to hot air. But simply just installing an intake does nothing, unless you like to lift the hood to show your friends. I suspect that an oiled filter may be similar. The filter alone does not gain any sort of performance. Maybe the oiled filter does allow for more air flow, and the fuel mix is richer; which just means more fuel wasted. My butt is not sliding in the seat, and my head is not snapping back.
  12. I installed a new battery around Christmas Eve. With a battery disconnect, stored data is lost, and the car's computer has to relearn everything. It's now February. I've been monitoring. And today, finally, the car's computer is satisfied with all of the sensor readings. According to the car's computer, I have only had 8 warm-ups, and 87 miles since that event. I was confident that the car was fine, the emissions system did not have any failures, and that it would eventually clear with enough driving. I can't even imagine how stressed somebody would be, if they had to pass a smog test. They could be out every day, with some sort of code reader, and trying to replicate all of those different driving conditions that are supposedly necessary to complete the Ford drive cycle. Ford Motor Company Driving Cycle.pdf
  13. I have the feeling that the small van segment of the market, is being abandoned in The USA. Every manufacturer is pulling out.
  14. Keep us posted on that. Post some photos if you can.
  15. My eyes hurt. My head hurts. @ HipOldTimer You don't need our help. You need a lawyer. Someone sold you a piece of junk. Maybe they even lied to you. How did you give this seller a "non-refundable" deposit, and why? Why would you pay money, for a car you've never seen? On top of that, they cheated you on the financing. On what earth can they add 12 more payments to your loan? I don't know all of the facts. I don't want to know all of the facts. But it sounds like you got cheated by an unscrupulous car seller. Some laws may have been broken. You need to speak to someone at your local level prosecutor's office to see if they can steer you in the right direction. And you need to hire a lawyer to see if you can get any money back, nullify the purchase agreement, and/or even nullify the lending agreement.
  16. With FORScan, when you search for battery, dozens of options appear. Apparently, FORScan sees it as an option in the various computer modules. But it does not mean that my van actually has any of those options.
  17. It's never a good idea, in any car, to simply leave old fluid in the transmission and wait for the transmission to reach the end of it's useable service life. Lifetime transmission fluid for the lifetime of the transmission. You can leave the fluid in the transmission until the transmission fails. Don't worry about it. Transmissions don't fail until after the warranty expires. Change the fluid. Amazon is selling Valvoline at a decent price.
  18. I am sure that you are correct. As the van does not have a physical BMS device attached to the battery.
  19. I don't have a battery current sensor. It's just odd that with FORScan, I can reset the BMS which does not exist.
  20. Reset of the battery monitoring system is an option on Forscan. I have the 2.5L engine, and there's no BMS. I don't see one. There's nothing hooked up to the battery. When I try to read the battery's state of charge, nothing comes up on the gauge. Nonetheless, I followed through on FORScan and rest the battery monitoring system, which does not exist. I don't think that it did anything.
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