nuke got a reaction from windguy in Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) battery
I hope it is OK to chime in an old thread, as I just went through this on my TC, a 2015.
I got a MTP48/H6 from Interstate, and found it too tall to fit, even though it is in their application book. The battery was too talk to fit the hold down bracket, as the top of the group 48 battery is about 9/16" too tall.
I took the battery (OEM motorcraft original) to Autozone, which had "BXT-96R" on a sticker on it. But on the counter, it was much longer than the 96R battery. We found that it was a dead on match for a DIN size T6 (in fact, perfectly identical in even the molding marks).
I could see another sticker under the black Motorcraft label, so I peeled it up. Underneath, was a blue Ford label with size T6, made in Germany, "Ford Silver Calcium". T6 is identical to US size 91 as well.
The Silver Calcium brand is sort of telling, as Ford does these in Europe. The Silver-Calcium formula battery uses a slightly higher charging voltage (14.8 vs. 14.4), and is supposed to last longer. I dunno, mine made it about 5.5 years, hadn't quite failed yet, but was starting to show signs of weakness.
If the car was set up for 14.8V charging from the factory, it may have some bearing on the battery life if different formula batteries are used.
nuke got a reaction from Drfeelgood in 2015 rubber strips on sliding doors?
I was in Vegas last weekend. I've never seen so many TC Wagons. Lots of taxi versions, and a ton that had to be rentals on the strip. It was kind of funny, I hardly see them here in Silicon Valley. I noticed that all the taxi versions lack the strips. About 1/2 the normal (presumed rent-a-cars) had one or both strips missing.
There's a noticeable gap, but I don't think most people would notice it. I don't think they serve any real purpose.
I'm thinking to leave them off. Even if glued securely, they seem really susceptible to damage and wear.
nuke got a reaction from LostInTransit in Step by step 2015 TC rear air filter
Rate this one under harder than it should be, but fairly easy.
The filter can be washed. It is just urethane foam, not a paper element. Unless it is torn or damaged, just wash it with dish soap and warm water.
Materials and tools:
Torx T-20 screwdriver.
Motorcraft FP75 filter element* (you can definitely wash these instead of replacing, unless it is damaged)
1. Move driver seat full forward and jack up the seat to the highest level, set the seat back forward.
2. Remove the T-20 screw from the filter housing.
3. The filter housing is supposed to rotate about 20 degrees CCW to come out. However, there are 3 clips around it. Poke your finger down the slot and release the claw inside by pushing it outward. There's one just right of the screw, and one at the very front and one at the driver's door side. I couldn't reach the one on the door side. But by releasing the front one and the one near the screw, I was able to convince it to rotate.
4. Remove the filter housing by wiggling it clear of the seat and under seat air duct.
5. There are three clips that you press gently to release the inner filter housing cage.
6. Replace or wash the filter element and dry it.
7. Install the filter on the inner cage, engaging the bottom edge of the filter in the slot around the bottom of the inner cage.
8. Line up the inner filter cage and snap it back into the filter housing.
9. Line up the filter housing on the blower motor and rotate it 20 degrees to snap it into place.
10. Install the retaining screw.
nuke got a reaction from LostInTransit in How to change the 2015 cabin air filter
Well, mark this in the column of "they built the car around the filter". Pretty much, they built the entire air conditioning system around it. I bought a used 2015 TC Wagon XLT with about 20k miles on it. Despite the dealership's claims, it hadn't been serviced since they got from Hertz. So I did the 20k on it myself today.
The cabin air filter is a bit of a mystery - there's one under the driver seat for the rear air. But the main one is behind the dash in the main air handler. It doesn't show up on the dealer's parts computer - unless you search for "odor filter". I looked at their diagram, and the photos from another thread where GBL posted some shop manual pictures. It is between the blower and the evaporator coil from the air conditioner.
This is more difficult than it should be, but not terribly hard.
1. Remove the passenger footwell trim aka, fuse box cover. It's the ozite thing above the passenger's feet. Two push pins on either side.
2. Empty and remove glove box. Leave the box closed. The hinge pins slide out. There's a notch you press with a slim screwdriver, this releases the hook on the pin. Slide the pins out and then drop the glove box out.
3. Disconnect battery.
4. Unplug the two lower harness plugs that are in your way and set them out of the way. These have lift-to-release plastic clamps on them. Treat them gently.
5. If you look carefully at the airbox, there is a rectangular cover with a couple of finger clamps towards the bottom. Mine didn't have any screws in it. Appears to be as it left the factory. There is one screw boss at the bottom, presumably if the snaps break. Press the snaps at the lower front and rear of the cover plate and lift it off.
6. The filter has no frame and is soft, so you can just slide it out towards the fuse box. The AC lines above it are in the way as it slides out.
7. Once the old one is out, note the direction of airflow and slowly work the new filter into the slot. There are arrows on the top of the filter showing airflow. It flows from front to back of the vehicle.
8. Slide the cover plate into the upper notch, fasten the snaps.
9. Put the wiring harness plugs back in and snap down the release handles.
10. Install glove box and hing pins. Note the slot and tab to orient the pins.
11. Install the ozite cover and press pins.
12. Reconnect battery and retrain windows and stuff.
Enjoy the fresh air.
I've been trying to get rid of that, "Hertz rent a car smell". I found the air freshener packets under the seats. But it was still in the A/C system. Changing the filter seems to really help.
nuke got a reaction from LostInTransit in Oil change, step by step
Probably trivial for most of you, but here's a step-by-step from changing the oil on my 2015 TC Wagon LWB XLT with 2.5L engine. I found Rino Ramps (plastic drive on ramps for low-profile cars) to work just fine. I back into the driveway, then down onto the ramps. The combined slope gives the van a slightly nose high but nearly level position for oil change. I found adequate room underneath on the ramps to do the oil change.
1. Materials needed: 6 qts (5.7 needed) 5w-20 oil and FL910S filter. 15-MM closed end wrench or socket, oil filter wrench, torx t-27 bit.
2. Put vehicle on ramps, apply brakes and chock wheels and raise the hood.
3. The bottom shield is held on by 6 T-27 screws and 2 push-pins.
4. Pop the push pins on the left and right side, but do not remove them yet.
5. Remove the 3 screws along the back of the cover, then the three screws along the front.
6. Carefully tug on the sides with the push pins to get the cover loose, then pull the cover down and forward a few inches. There are two places where it hooks the vehicle frame and pulling forward clears these. Set cover aside.
7. Place suitable draining container under the sump drain, located in the center rear side of the sump. 5w-20 is pretty thin stuff, so it will rooster tail out pretty good. Place your target accordingly.
8. Remove the 15mm drain plug with a socket or closed end wrench. Drain oil. It may go a bit faster if you open the oil fill cap.
9. The filter is easy to reach in the front of the engine. However, it will drain a LOT of oil when you take it off. Make sure your drain is in place before you take it off. Loosen the filter, let it run off, then take it off. There's a lot of oil in the passages that will drain after the filter is off.
10. Install the 15mm drain plug and tighten accordingly.
11. Lubricate the filter with clean engine oil. Wipe the flange surface clean and be sure no remaining gasket is stuck to it. Install and tighten filter 3/4 turn after it contacts the flange.
12. Fill with oil and pressure test.
13. Install bottom cover by sliding onto hooks and inserting the press pins then the 6 screws.
I refilled with a smidge more than 5.5 quarts of oil and it was pretty much spot on. Manual says 5.7qts with filter change. So, thats about right.
This one rates as "easy" with the only complication being the bottom cover. The rear screws are hard to reach.