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jrm223

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Everything posted by jrm223

  1. And they're federally illegal in the US. Over here, a "third brake light" or CHMSL - Center High-Mount Stop Lamps - is required to be on the centerline of the vehicle. That's the reason why Ford switched the North America-spec vans to the rooftop brake light, we can't have offset. Now, whether Jessica could get away with it or not depends on her local state/area and police, specifically whether they are knowledgeable about the centerline requirement. As collinjx recommended, I'd go with some sort of spacer to lift the fan up slightly. All big box stores (HD, Lowes, etc) sell sheets of plastic, y'all could buy a piece and cut it into a spacer that matches the base? I don't know if anyplace sells pre-cut spacers, but the DIY option can be done right away today or this weekend.
  2. Your passenger wagon (assuming non-panoramic roof) is only rated by Ford to carry 165lbs regardless of what rails are on it (OEM vs aftermarket). Since I don't have OEM rails, I bought a pair of 'universal' ladder racks that are manufacturer-rated for 500lbs, but I'm still limited to 220lbs (including the rack itself) since I have a cargo van.
  3. Not that I can afford it anyway, but I'd like to know about the pop-top on the van in those pics, lol. Looks pretty decent when closed, anyway.
  4. If it's anything like my 2015 gen 2 TC, it's just a plastic panel.
  5. Looking through the owners manual fuse locations, I don't even see any labeled rear stop lamps or tail lamps, odd. One to check would be underhood fuse box, F21, 5A, Stop Lamp Switch since you say your brake lights aren't working.
  6. We seem to be a rare bird in the TC community. You're the first other person I've seen that doesn't have the rear fuse box - I also don't have it in my 2015 XL cargo. I haven't had to mess with the fuses for the rear lights, so I'll try to check it out to figure out where the fuse is.
  7. jrm223

    front strut

    I had to replace the front struts on mine (2015 TC cargo) last summer. Right-front was also the one blown, but it went at like 70K miles or so and I finally got around to replacing it at roughly 105K. Since I knew everything was going to be apart anyway, I did both sides at the same time. I've always been the type to replace things in matched pairs, even light bulbs. Unfortunately, RF corner is back to making noise shortly after, although the strut seems to be fine since I can't really bounce that corner of the van with body weight like I did with the old blown strut. CV boots look fine and the wheel bearing was replaced @ 102K when I thought my old noise was the wheel bearing and it was actually the bad strut, so I need to get in there more to figure out this other noise sometime. I used the 'preloaded' struts from RockAuto that already have new springs on them, since I don't have a way to swap springs over and this is my only driveable vehicle.
  8. jrm223

    Removing Factory Roof Rails?

    As already mentioned, drop both parts of the headliner, since you have a passenger wagon. I'm one of the cargo guys, so I can't really help with what's needed for removing the back headliner. Each rail has 5 screws under the ceiling/roof to hold it on, I've marked their positions in red on the passenger side in this pic and left the Ford markings on the driver side: After you get the headliners down, you'll be able to see and remove the screws. There will be openings left behind in the roof, so you'll need to decide how you want to make sure they won't be leaking after you change to whatever other rails you may choose. And you don't have to do anything at all with the side curtain airbags, at least on the front seats. Again, my van is a cargo model, so I can't say what you'll find in regards to side curtain airbags in the second and/or third-row seating of a passenger wagon... But the front ones are mounted far enough outboard from the rail channels that you'll have plenty of space to swing a ratchet, haha.
  9. jrm223

    What is this?

    I just looked through the interior pics I have of my 2015 gen-2 cargo van and I don't have anything resembling that in my van. Is yours a 1st generation TC? Passenger or cargo model?
  10. jrm223

    Live News Report

    I love the padded folding chair to undoubtedly primp himself in the mirror before "jumping into action", lmao. I wouldn't be too surprised if those plastic drawers have a mirror and probably even a comb & hair spray, at the least. Definitely looks like an FTC1 to me, too.
  11. jrm223

    Roof Rack Holes

    I don't have any photos of the caps or holes, but the little plastic caps have a couple of tabs that you can squeeze from underneath and then the cap just pops up out of the holes. Just make sure to squeeze them from inside to loosen them, I broke the first one attempting to remove it from above! I only removed four of them to put on a 'universal' type two-bar ladder rack, although my original plan was to install custom-bent/profiled L-track that I shaped to the roof a few years ago, but I've never gotten around to installing those. Figured a couple universal bars would be a lot quicker - and I installed them alone in maybe half-hour or so! There's really nothing "under those plastic caps", they have a built-in gasket to keep water out and then there's just open holes after you gently remove them, nothing too special. And the holes are not threaded, BTW. The front pair (where my first crossbar is) has small circular holes and I had to open them up a bit with the next bigger drill bit for the bolts to fit through, but the rest of the holes are slightly oblong/oval-shaped (front-back direction) & a bit larger because I didn't have to drill them for the bolts.
  12. And yet they do, for many people. A little friction is all that's needed; the hinges use screws & nuts, so the tension can be adjusted quickly & easily.
  13. Reflectix is radiant barrier and not actual insulation. Great for using on windows as removable covers, but not worth the time & money as wall insulation - especially when you see people put it directly against the sheet metal body, absolutely worthless! Radiant barrier needs at least about an inch of air gap between it and the outer sheathing (or vehicle body, in our cases). You would be much better off with closed-cell spray foam or - for low price, easy access for future maintenance and ease of use & install - the foam insulation boards at the hardware stores, cut down to fit where you need them. I need to get around to insulation and I'll be going the foam board route, although my van is like a Swiss Army knife for me, so I can't build a permanent camper in mine, lol.
  14. I wouldn't expect the dealer to necessarily know anything super technical like that, lol. But once in a blue moon, you'll get a knowledgeable person. Several members here can't even successfully get their perimeter lights turned off at their dealerships and Ford provides specific instructions on how to do it; so there's not much excuse, yet the techs still can't figure it out. On the other hand, I've never heard of any Ford-provided info at all on permanent removal of passenger seat, for comparison. I wonder if your dealer sees a lot of fleet vans? There could be an upfitter nearby that is setting them up for businesses and may be able to help you out with info or something on what they do to remove the seat? My own van doesn't even have a manual shut-off for the passenger airbag, at least not that I've ever noticed. For testing purposes, you could shutoff the passenger airbag and then just disconnect all the plugs under the passenger seat to see what happens, simulating it's removal. For reference, when I was messing around with trying the Gen 1 resistors, the gauge cluster air bag light permanently stayed lit-up to indicate an error condition, plus some OBD codes were thrown, but no CEL that I can remember. I think I even tried it without any resistors, also as a test, and everything was the same.
  15. And that's at only 31 MPH, essentially residential neighborhood speeds, lol.
  16. From what I've seen discussed in the past, disabling part of the air bag system - such as the sensors (3 of 'em: occupant, distance from dash, seat belt) & side air bag in that passenger seat - will disable the entire air bag system, leaving you as the driver vulnerable to full force of impacts in an accident. Here in the forum, there is some old info on removing the seat and putting in some certain resistors to mimic the seat still being there, but that info only works for gen 1 TC (up to 2013 model year). I tried it in my 2015 and it didn't work correctly; I haven't gotten around to using an ohm-meter on the seat connections to see what values are needed for our gen 2 TC's. But that would still only give the ohms required, not the info like 1/4W resistor, 1/2W, etc. If your passenger seat folds down (release on left shoulder of the seat) like my '15 & Kevin's '18, I'd probably recommend doing that until dummy resistors can be figured out to bypass the seat without disabling the whole air bag system. I can't imagine that FoMoCo would drop that feature for 2020 and my '15 is a dealer-lot XL (options added power windows/locks only), so it should be a standard feature instead of optional.
  17. I remember hearing way back that a 1lb can of whatever (soup, beans, etc) flying forward, unsecured, in a crash from 55mph will have something like 70lbs of localized impact force (good ole momentum!) when it meets the back of your head after an accident. Take a 70lb soup-can-sledge-hammer hit to the back of your head and it'll be closed casket, lol. It's been a couple decades since I heard the numbers, so I may not remember them exactly correct, but it's still a lot of force. If we have a physics whiz, they could crunch the numbers and figure out the exact impact force. I've seen the damage that a half-full cooler does to a back seat in a 1995 Saturn coupe, the seatback was heavily curved after the accident. It was my own, so I wasn't seeing aftermath of someone else's accident, lol. Even better, my genius ex-gf (dating at the time) had one leg up on the door with the window down, well her foot hit the side mirror with enough force to send the mirror flying like 40+ft away from the car. Her other leg was on top of the dash; needless to say, the air bag bruises on the back of her legs lasted for a good year afterwards before they completely disappeared finally. She had said she's learned her lesson about keeping her feet on the floor where they belong.
  18. jrm223

    central locking

    Sounds like it may be programmed as a fleet vehicle to not unlock the back with the "regular" unlock button on the remote. I don't know what the gen-1 remote/key looks like, but gen-2 has two unlock buttons on it - one regular button and one rear-doors button. A lot of fleets will have the rear doors programmed for the second button only so the driver doesn't accidentally unlock the rear and potentially have theft of product from unknowingly leaving it unlocked. The good news is that this can easily be programmed in a few minutes of time - once you have the right equipment - using ForScan (search the forum, tons of posts already about the software) so the rear doors will unlock with the normal button on the remote like non-fleet vehicles. I believe that will probably be found under BodyCM (As Built) module when you have the ForScan software and an OBDII adapter module, which plugs into the port under the dash.
  19. jrm223

    Upgrade instrument cluster 2016

    I suspect that you'll be receiving requests from members to do this as a service, haha.
  20. I'm thinking the door module, too. Although, my van will chime at certain times when the key is still in the ignition, but not always. For example, I can open the door and it won't make a sound, but if the door is half-latched (say, I didn't push hard enough to close it all the way), then it will start beeping at me. My radio also quit staying on after turning off the ignition, but it's easy to turn it back on for an hour after turning off the key. There is no "door switch" the old way most of us are used to them, though. It's now part of the latch assembly (which runs through the door module), rather than being a separate plunger switch in the door frame.
  21. jrm223

    Can second row seats be installed in cargo models?

    Ask three different state cops and you'll get four or five different answers! They are not an encyclopedia of laws and really only know the most commonly enforced laws by memory - something as rare as regulations (if any!) about adding seats to a cargo van will NOT be their forte. If you're that damned worried, go pay an upfitter or conversion company to do a "professional" conversion, since they're certified, licensed & insured for such conversions. But, as long as your added seat doesn't fail during an accident (separate itself from the vehicle floor/structure), what in the world would your passenger sue you for?? @Daniel-J, US laws are nothing like Aussie laws & inspections, so no we don't really need "permission" or paperwork or post-install inspections.
  22. So, I finally got around to putting on a universal ladder rack. I have several home repair projects coming up real soon (like reroofing that damn camper behind the van...) that will require borrowed ladders plus sheet goods including plywood, so I needed a quick & cheap way to carry the stuff around. I came across this rack for $113 currently (Amazon link) and the package arrived yesterday, so I didn't waste any time on install since my area is supposed to have rain every day for at least the next week - also great for double-checking that it's not leaking! Lol I decided to use the front-most & rear-most factory holes, rather than drilling my own. The front pair of holes did need to be opened up slightly to 5/16" to easily fit the 8mm bolts. Those pairs of holes ended up putting the bars at 81", or 6'9", from the leading edge of the front one to the trailing edge of the rear one (ie. 81" includes their own depth). For 8ft goods, that will only leave roughly 7.5" overhang on each end, but it will provide better support when I'm carrying 10ft & 12ft long stuff like the pallet rack I'll be bringing home soon. Definitely need to organize the junk in my garage so I can actually get to work on my projects! And anything longer than 12ft will need to go on that boat trailer in the second pic, after I convert it into a hauler. These are advertised as being 62" inside the uprights, so I'd say 64-65" wide overall, but I didn't measure the total width. It shouldn't actually be a problem, anyway - like a head knocker - since they're over 6ft off the ground and I'm 6ft tall. As shown in the Amazon ad, they did come with brackets to put in the middle for holding ladders to prevent sideways movement, but I left them off for my use with sheet goods & random long stuff. The spoiler or "wind deflector" on the front one works pretty well, too; I really didn't notice any new wind noise driving into work this morning. Noise is a common complaint that I see with a lot of low-budget racks. Obviously I haven't used it yet, but it seems well built and I don't anticipate having any trouble, so I'd recommend these for anyone that wants to stick to a low budget just for personal use and needs to haul bulky stuff with their little van. A lot of "professional-brand" used racks around me cost more than this brand new delivered one.
  23. Going into your van or removed from it? Lol. I am in Texas, too, Jack County. The Chevy 3rd-row seats are all right about 48" from what I have found. Which makes sense, since it needs to fit between the wheelwells of the SUV's.
  24. I hadn't even considered delivery, TBH. I may look into that from a materials total cost perspective (local picked-up $ vs HD delivered $), but I already have the rack now, so it's a moot point overall.
  25. Most RV's have 1/8"-1/4" Luan under the rubber roof from the factory. When I was saying plywood before, it certainly could be Luan/Lauan instead of "regular" plywood, depends what my local store actually carries and I haven't talked to them, yet. Right now, there's way too much rain happening for me to be tearing off the roof for replacement, even with my plan to do it one sheet at a time - pull a section off, cut & fit the replacement, move on to the next one. And it'll be directly coated with an elastomeric coating instead of buying EPDM rubber garbage.
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