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DonShockley

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  1. Like
    DonShockley got a reaction from G B L in remove interior wheel well covers   
    Actually it's the other way around. The chicken tax does not apply to passenger vehicles but does apply to work vehicles. So they all start as wagons and get converted to vans by removing the seats and windows, not installing them. Here's a good summary of how and why:
    https://www.chicagotribune.com/business/ct-biz-ford-tariff-chicken-tax-20180709-story.html
  2. Like
    DonShockley got a reaction from G B L in remove interior wheel well covers   
    Actually it's the other way around. The chicken tax does not apply to passenger vehicles but does apply to work vehicles. So they all start as wagons and get converted to vans by removing the seats and windows, not installing them. Here's a good summary of how and why:
    https://www.chicagotribune.com/business/ct-biz-ford-tariff-chicken-tax-20180709-story.html
  3. Like
    DonShockley got a reaction from ServicePlus in Added USB Power to Overhead Shelf   
    Here's how I added a USB power port to the overhead shelf on my 2015 TC LWB Wagon. I'll break the posts and pictures up for easier reading.
    I hate dangling wires so I wanted an overhead power supply for my dash cam. Rather than add yet another cigarette lighter socket for the plug in adapters that come with these type of accessories, I decided to go with a USB power port instead since they almost always use a 5v mini or micro USB plug anyway. Far more flexibility in cabling this way also instead of relying on what the manufacturer decides to supply.
    The First step was to remove the overhead shelf. There are four screws on each side, the two at each end of the handholds are under the covers, the other two in each side are readily visible once the visor is flipped down. As it turns out, I likely could have skipped this step since the riser piece in the middle where I wanted the power port mounted has nothing connected to it and the release tabs are all accessible with the shelf installed.



  4. Thanks
    DonShockley got a reaction from mrtn in How do you remove wipers?   
    If using a puller or pliers you may want to reinstall the nut loosely while you're first trying to get it broken loose. It'll give you a larger surface to pry against and it will protect the threads. And if you do happen to damage the surface with the plier teeth or something, it's a lot easier to replace a nut than a threaded wiper motor shaft.
  5. Thanks
    DonShockley got a reaction from mountainman in Ford Transit Connect meets Focus RS   
    I wonder if they got the idea here on the forums from the member that did something similar?
     
  6. Thanks
    DonShockley got a reaction from mountainman in Ford Transit Connect meets Focus RS   
    I wonder if they got the idea here on the forums from the member that did something similar?
     
  7. Like
    DonShockley got a reaction from SBehring in A few questions after a test drive   
    1. I had the same worry since it looks so low. But in practice I've never hit anything due to being too low. Trim under front bumper clears concrete parking stops. I don't creep over speed bumps, just slow enough I don't bounce off the ceiling. And I've used it for work on occasion over rutted dirt and gravel roads. Bottomed the hitch out once driving off a curb that looked like an exit, but never bottomed out the TC itself. Did run over one of those paper towel multipacks that fell out of a pickup on the highway and had no issues. The shields on the underside seem to have the important bits well protected if you do encounter something.
     
    2. It's not a racer but plenty of power for merging onto the highway and climbing hills. At least for me running most of the time with just driver and lightly loaded. Lots of passengers or cargo might be different. But I only do that rarely so not enough experience to say for sure even though I've never had it be bad enough to be noticable.
     
    3. Not an issue on my 2015 XLT, but comparing that photo of the Titanium to a similar photo of my XLT, I have a small gap between mirror and trim above. Sunroof may require extra space and cause trim to be a bit lower. My mirror and the huge rear window make it like looking out with no rear hatch. But my rear seats have been removed so I'm not looking over their backs.
     
    4. I worried too. I even stuck a piece of PVC in the dirt and drove until I hit it both front and rear. I kept getting another foot or two past where I thought I would hit before I actually did. In reality there's not much sticking very far out, that slope looks worse than it is. Half the engine is essentially under that big expanse of glass and dash so there's just not much past the end of the glass. And the rounded off corners let you get surprising close to adjacent cars when turning into parking spots.
     
    5. No kids but my neice's family visited and I put the seats back in and our group of 6 did all our sightseeing in the TC. 4 adults and 2 kids and I'm over 300# so the TC was full, but only 1 carseat. I specifically asked my neice's husband how the third row was for him after a longish trip and he had said it was fine, close but not cramped and able to move his legs around enough for comfort. My second row is the 60/40 and folding the 40 back gave easy access to the third row. We never did try 3 across on row two. But my neice said it seemed doable with her and 2 kids if the carseat was out.
  8. Like
    DonShockley got a reaction from herb in Anybody install OEM mud flaps themselves ?   
    I did the front and rear mud flaps on my 2015 LWB and it wasn't too much fuss. It's been 3 1/2 years so I don't recall all the details. IIRC, just a little bit of frustration to keep the edges aligned as you press home the clips that attach the flap to the existing trim. I don't remember if it was just an issue of not enough hands for the job or just how precisely everything needed to be aligned to get the pieces to interlock. But I did have to loosen the fasteners back up a couple times before I got everything to fall into place correctly. But the instructions lay out the process so it's not one of those installs that requires special tools or knowledge. 
  9. Thanks
    DonShockley got a reaction from OLDSCHOOLFOOL in Overhead center console - what's it for?   
    I put a 12v power port and a USB power port in mine which is why I had it apart to take the photos. And I keep emergency supplies under the cover for the non-existent sunglass holder.
  10. Haha
    DonShockley got a reaction from mountainman in LIFT!!   
    Although this video is for a full size Transit van and not a Connect, it's still one of my favorite car show segments. If I win the lottery I want to do something similar with an old beat up Connect. The ultimate sleeper.
     
  11. Thanks
    DonShockley got a reaction from omac in Key missing for cargo rack Transit Connect   
    BTW, here's the Ford Accessories link for these crossbars.
    https://accessories.ford.com/catalog/product/view/id/10799/s/kit-lugg-crossbar-univ-lockable/category/3020/
     
    And I can't be sure, but I think these are the Thule lock cylinders that could be used to replace broken ones if you choose to force the locks and break them. They look the same, but I'm not sure how universal the fit may be.
    https://www.thule.com/en-us/us/roof-rack/roof-rack-components-and-accessories/thule-4-pack-lock-cylinder-544-_-1037
  12. Like
    DonShockley got a reaction from davidparker in How to remove rear quarter panels   
    I was looking a my TC again to try to help a guy on FB having problems with his door sticking in the latched open position. That middle piece is definitely the hold open latch. There is a wheel and a couple torx screw heads visible up inside the middle track that match that part very well. So the hex screw must be used to adjust the tension on the roller. Glad I found this info because as you can see I've not gotten much lube there when spraying the tracks. This will be another spot to hit with the better red lube spray I just started using.
     

  13. Thanks
    DonShockley got a reaction from OLDSCHOOLFOOL in Overhead center console - what's it for?   
    Here's another photo of the side showing the holes in the headliner that will be left from the shelf mounting points.
    And I don't know for sure, but it may be possible to remove the light fixture from the shelf and install it in the cutout in the headliner. They look to be about the same size and shape.
     


  14. Thanks
    DonShockley got a reaction from OLDSCHOOLFOOL in Overhead center console - what's it for?   
    Opps, lost ability to edit while adding photos. Here's the comparison of the light module in the shelf to the possibly matching cutout in the headliner underneath the shelf.


  15. Thanks
    DonShockley got a reaction from OLDSCHOOLFOOL in Overhead center console - what's it for?   
    I put a 12v power port and a USB power port in mine which is why I had it apart to take the photos. And I keep emergency supplies under the cover for the non-existent sunglass holder.
  16. Like
    DonShockley got a reaction from BSUPC in Failed Door Latch 4 days past 3 year warranty   
    Well, I finally got my TC back today. Ford corporate did end up covering the replacement of the failed door latch with just a $25 deductible. Of course the dealer took another 3 days after the repair was done to actually get all the paperwork done until I could actually pick up the car. And I did pay out of pocket to get a spare for the passengers side so if it fails I can get the repair done in a hurry, elsewhere if necessary. So I actually ended up spending $180 total.
     
    And now, the rest of the story....... I wasn't able to keep the failed part since it was to be returned to Ford as part of the (out of?) warranty coverage. But I was able to take photos of the failed part. Later while I was killing some time before the movie I was going to see opened, I was looking at the photos and noticed something interesting. The part number label showed a build date of 2014 even though the recall was issued in 2016 and I had to wait 4 months for "recall parts" to be available for installation in June 2017. So the recall compliant parts shouldn't have build dates prior to 2016 or 2017. I returned to the dealer and spoke to the service manager about this. He retrieved the part and looking closer, he found that the timing was even worse. The 2014 label was on top of an earlier 2013 label, making it that much less likely to be from a 2016 recall / 2017 repair. Although I think he realized what it meant, he claimed he would have to consult with the parts experts to determine if those were build dates and not some other random number. Yeah, right. And although he produced the documentation of the parts orders and install entries for the 2017 recall repair, he did say he understood how bad it looked when all the physical evidence seems to suggest the repair wasn't actually done regardless of what the paperwork shows.
     
    Although he would not come out and admit what I suspect we both knew, he stated he was going to dig deeper to find out why there was apparently a 2014 part that failed. And that IF it appeared the recall repair in 2017 had not been done properly, they would pull the car back in free of charge, install the part I currently have on hand, and refund both the cost of the part and the deductible that I have already paid. And if that's what happens, it is the proper solution for this issue but I shouldn't have to be the one driving this investigation. The dealer should have done all this ASAP once my initial evidence suggested the 2016 repair was faulty.
     
    After I got home, I did some further digging by pulling the inside panel on the passenger slider. Although my intention was to check the part date on that side, I didn't get that far. There is a large white seal with a 2014 date on it and sealed edges that have very obviously never been disturbed. There is no way they replaced a latch in this door in 2017 without disturbing this seal. I plan to call first thing tomorrow morning to add that bit of evidence to the pile. I'll also pull the drivers slider panel to see how much they disturbed that same sheet and seal during the recent repair on that side. I understand that you can't know exactly what your employees do at all times and for liability reasons you may not want to make admissions out of hand. But this latest evidence makes it nearly impossible to continue to insist that the 2017 repair was done properly. And although it's an issue between the dealer and Ford, not me, it would appear that now Ford has reimbursed the dealer twice when in reality only half the work has been done that Ford was paying for.
     
    And now for the only bright spot in this whole fiasco, my opinion of the Transit Connect itself has risen back up to where it was before the door latch failed. I understand that every vehicle can have issues so recalls don't really bother me if they aren't ongoing issues. I had begun rethinking my plans to special order another TC when this one is paid off next July. A recall that continues to leave safety items broken would be a deal breaker for me. But it is starting to look like it's not really a Ford Recall or Transit Connect problem but is instead a problem with the technician that did the repair at a minimum and maybe a problem at the dealer level. Switching dealers before that next purchase will fix that cause and I can still feel safe sticking with the Transit Connect which I have otherwise fully enjoyed.
  17. Thanks
    DonShockley reacted to Mike Chell in Anyone else in line for a 2019 Diesel XLT Connect Wagon?   
    😝 Just pee in the reservoir.  Urea is injected to catalyze NOx into nitrogen and water.  Diesels will always be more powerful than gas engines, but the trade off is they will never be as EPA compliant.  They're also noisier, since they run on the "knocking and pinging" we hate in four strokes.
     
    Stick with gas, in my opinion.
  18. Thanks
    DonShockley reacted to Beta Don in Anyone else in line for a 2019 Diesel XLT Connect Wagon?   
    A diesel is a big winner in low end torque, so if you're buying a tow vehicle, getting a diesel makes good sense.  If you run the freeways putting on 50K per year, a diesel can outlive a gas engine by 2X or 3X assuming the vehicle built around it lasts as long as the engine . . . . but modern gas engines are starting to live as long as the vehicle they came in too.  A diesel gets better mileage, but it pollutes more and the fuel costs a bit more.  Almost all new diesels now have a urea tank which you have to keep up with, which can get expensive enough to almost offset any fuel cost advantages.  For me, if I drove it a LOT and/or if I was buying it primarily to tow a heavy load, I would look to a diesel, otherwise the modern gas engine would get my vote.  In actuality, I would rather have an electric vehicle than either one . . . . and I do own three  😋
     
    Don
     
  19. Cool
    DonShockley got a reaction from mrtn in 2017 Connect Trend SWB   
    DEXTER is getting a reboot on TV and the Ice Truck killer got frustrated with city parking.
  20. Like
    DonShockley got a reaction from BSUPC in Failed Door Latch 4 days past 3 year warranty   
    That's exactly why I told them I needed the failed part even if there was an extra core charge. Repeat failure of the part installed as a recall repair needs to be not only documented in the paperwork but the failed part preserved for failure analysis if needed. Regardless of who ends up paying for the replacement, the failure will need to be documented. If it's just a one off failure, fine and dandy, these things can happen to even new parts. But if it can be shown to be a pattern of repeated failures among different customers  vehicles and different dealers installing the recall repair, that's when failure analysis of the part may provide an answer of why.
  21. Haha
    DonShockley got a reaction from BSUPC in Failed Door Latch 4 days past 3 year warranty   
    Here's how I responded to my unpleasant buying experience with my RAV4. I knew you had to be careful to not say things that were potentially actionable. I know if you suggest criminality or what people did or did not do that it could be something you need to try to prove in court. So I was very careful to just say how I felt after what happened rather than make charges about their actions.
     
    I hope I'm not jinxing it, but I did get a better response from Ford corporate. I called the recall number who then redirected me to Ford Customer Satisfaction and after explaining the situation, and a short wait while they checked the records or talking to the higher ups or whatever, they came back and said Ford would help on the issue as long as when they contacted the dealer that the issue was not due to neglect or abuse on my part. The said it could be another 2 days for that process to complete before a final yes/no determination could be made. It's not even about the money at this point, as shown by the fact that I'll pay extra for a spare part for the passengers side, but rather that a recall repair should actually fix the problem for longer than a year. I have an even better label maker now, I don't think Ford will like the extra size and attention getting graphics that will end up plastered on my back window if they stick with this poor recall repair failing after 13 months and no fix.
     

  22. Sad
    DonShockley got a reaction from BSUPC in Failed Door Latch 4 days past 3 year warranty   
    Just got the word, and apparently the prior good news was just words. After waiting 5 days for my car to even make it into the service bay, and that's 5 days after the appointment I was given with AutoMax Ford of Killeen TX, I got the call late yesterday that it was indeed the latch that had been replaced during the recall that had failed. But yesterday they said they were submitting a request to Ford to cover it and it usually takes 24-48 hours to get an answer. I just got off the phone with the dealer and the answer was NO! The reason given was that the recall parts were only warrantied for a year after install.
     
    So for the exact failure that generated a fleetwide recall that happened 4 days outside the standard 3yr/36000mi warranty and 1 month outside the warranty on the installed recall repair parts, Ford will do nothing. It's really making me rethink my plans to do a custom order Transit Connect van next July once my TC Wagon is paid off. It also has me rethinking the trade in vs keep it if the recall repair is only lasting 13 months.
     
    So it's going to be $550 for the repair. I made sure to tell them to give me tho old failed drivers side part. I am actually going to increase that cost a bit and get the same part for the passengers side since they were both part of the recall repair and I want to be prepared for a repeat failure on the other side. But if it does happen, I'll see if the repair is DIY or take it somewhere else if I have to. All in I expect to be out around $700, not too bad, but I shouldn't be paying anything for a repeat repair of recall issue.
     
    After I finish this post I do intend to do a little more fighting. Starting with calling the Ford phone number listed on the recall notice. I still strongly suspect the recall wasn't properly installed. I also made sure to tell AutoMax Ford of Killeen to make sure to keep the old parts, even if it involved an extra core charge (which it turns out it doesn't) so that I would have evidence if needed when I file a report with NHTSA (? or other appropriate governement recall agency) that the recall repair has the same failure with the new part as was failing on the old part. I drove around for years with my poor puchase experience on a Toyota RAV4 shown on the back for all to read, I guess I can do the same with the poor recall repair experience on the TC posted all over that big back hatch for all to read until I upgrade next year. I guess I'll also have to start doing some more serious research into making that replacement possibly be a Mercedes Metris instead of a Ford Transit Connect.
  23. Haha
    DonShockley got a reaction from mrtn in Failed Door Latch 4 days past 3 year warranty   
    I called this morning and while setting up the appointment, the service advisor made a strange comment that the recall was for the front doors only, not the sliders. I went back to the original recall notice I received and it specifically mentioned the slider latch breaking, nothing about the front doors at all. So I decided to go take a look at my front door latches. They were not very worn at all and I could see a few very small scratches on the screws. It appears that they may have done the recall on the front doors only and never touched the rear door sliders that the recall was intended for at all. I called back and had them add that info to the ticket. Still not sure how it will play out, but I feel a little more confident that I know why it broke, the recall repair was never fully completed. Hopefully once the dealership sees the same thing they'll have the sense to finish the job under the recall and not try to stick me with out of warranty charges.
     
    As a side note, if you ever have this problem with your doors failing to latch, here's a way to strap it so the door is secure and the vehicle is drivable. I initially only had a single strap pulling the door in, but was getting momentary "door ajar" warnings on each right turn. Not trusting a single strap anyway, I added a backup but still got the warning with both straps pulling in towards the center. But then I thought to rig the second strap so it was pulling the door forward against the pins on the door frame. That worked much better and stopped all the door ajar warnings. Since my seats were already out, I used the seat base mount for the pull in strap. For the pull forward strap I looped it around the bottom post for the drivers seat belt attachment. And both straps are attached at the door end by looping around the center slider mechanism mount pivot pin. I didn't think to take a photo of that part.
     

  24. Thanks
    DonShockley got a reaction from BSUPC in New key not recognized!   
    One issue may be the difference between the key fob security for operating the locks which I believe is just a coded radio signal, and the security key itself which I believe relies on a special chip inside the metal key itself. An aftermarket key may not have the chip in the metal key that will allow it to start the car due to the anti-theft not being satisfied, even if the signal from the plastic fob can unlock the door.
     
    There is a seperate programming procedure for getting the Passive Anti-Theft system to recognize the security keys themselves that is seperate from just programming the fob to operate the doors. The following procedure is from my 2015 manual, starting on page 59.
     
    "Programming a Spare Integrated Keyhead Transmitter You can program your own integrated keyhead transmitter or standard SecuriLock coded keys to your vehicle. This procedure will program both the engine immobilizer keycode and the remote entry portion of the remote control to your vehicle.
     
    Only use integrated keyhead transmitters or standard SecuriLock keys.
     
    You must have two previously programmed correctly coded keys and the new unprogrammed key readily accessible. See an authorized dealer to have the spare key programmed if two previously programmed correctly coded keys are not available.
     
    Read and understand the entire procedure before you begin.
     
    1. Insert the first previously programmed correctly coded key into the ignition.
    2. Switch the ignition from off to on. Keep the ignition on for at least three seconds, but no more than 10 seconds.
    3. Switch the ignition off and remove the first correctly coded key from the ignition.
    4. After three seconds but within 10 seconds of switching the ignition off, insert the second previously correctly coded key into the ignition.
    5. Switch the ignition from off to on. Keep the ignition on for at least three seconds, but no more than 10 seconds.
    6. Switch the ignition off and remove the second previously programmed correctly coded key from the ignition.
    7. After three seconds but within 10 seconds of switching the ignition off and removing the previously programmed correctly coded key, insert the new unprogrammed key into the ignition.
    8. Switch the ignition from off to on. Keep the ignition on for at least six seconds.
    9. Remove the newly programmed correctly coded key from the ignition.

    If the key has been successfully programmed it will start the engine and operate the remote entry system (if the new key is an integrated keyhead transmitter).
    If the key was not successfully programmed, wait 10 seconds and repeat Steps 1 through 8. If you are still unsuccessful, take your vehicle to an authorized dealer.
    Note: You can program a maximum of eight coded keys to your vehicle. All eight can be integrated keyhead transmitters."
  25. Thanks
    DonShockley got a reaction from BSUPC in New key not recognized!   
    One issue may be the difference between the key fob security for operating the locks which I believe is just a coded radio signal, and the security key itself which I believe relies on a special chip inside the metal key itself. An aftermarket key may not have the chip in the metal key that will allow it to start the car due to the anti-theft not being satisfied, even if the signal from the plastic fob can unlock the door.
     
    There is a seperate programming procedure for getting the Passive Anti-Theft system to recognize the security keys themselves that is seperate from just programming the fob to operate the doors. The following procedure is from my 2015 manual, starting on page 59.
     
    "Programming a Spare Integrated Keyhead Transmitter You can program your own integrated keyhead transmitter or standard SecuriLock coded keys to your vehicle. This procedure will program both the engine immobilizer keycode and the remote entry portion of the remote control to your vehicle.
     
    Only use integrated keyhead transmitters or standard SecuriLock keys.
     
    You must have two previously programmed correctly coded keys and the new unprogrammed key readily accessible. See an authorized dealer to have the spare key programmed if two previously programmed correctly coded keys are not available.
     
    Read and understand the entire procedure before you begin.
     
    1. Insert the first previously programmed correctly coded key into the ignition.
    2. Switch the ignition from off to on. Keep the ignition on for at least three seconds, but no more than 10 seconds.
    3. Switch the ignition off and remove the first correctly coded key from the ignition.
    4. After three seconds but within 10 seconds of switching the ignition off, insert the second previously correctly coded key into the ignition.
    5. Switch the ignition from off to on. Keep the ignition on for at least three seconds, but no more than 10 seconds.
    6. Switch the ignition off and remove the second previously programmed correctly coded key from the ignition.
    7. After three seconds but within 10 seconds of switching the ignition off and removing the previously programmed correctly coded key, insert the new unprogrammed key into the ignition.
    8. Switch the ignition from off to on. Keep the ignition on for at least six seconds.
    9. Remove the newly programmed correctly coded key from the ignition.

    If the key has been successfully programmed it will start the engine and operate the remote entry system (if the new key is an integrated keyhead transmitter).
    If the key was not successfully programmed, wait 10 seconds and repeat Steps 1 through 8. If you are still unsuccessful, take your vehicle to an authorized dealer.
    Note: You can program a maximum of eight coded keys to your vehicle. All eight can be integrated keyhead transmitters."
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