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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/17/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Fifty150

    Toaster? Nah, couldn't be!

    Strange coincidence, maybe. Confirmed sighting in California. Another red toaster. I'm not worried. He can confront all of the thousands of white Transit Connects in Northern California. Mostly driven by employees. Nobody will know what he's talking about. Or care. Someone might hit him. Or spray Mace. Can you imagine the crew of utility workers on the side of a coned off lane, as he pulls up, jumps out, and starts ranting?
  2. 2 points
    @stanger_missle Here's the link for the head unit I put in. This one has a 45 watt amp build into the system. It even has capability to hook up a powerless sub to the unit without needing an external amp. Your link didn't work when I clicked on it BTW. Cost about $250. Mind you, if you do opt for one of these powered head units, you will need to run a dedicated power wire to the battery from the unit. I did not read the fine print on that, and had to order a wiring kit separately. When I looked around the rear doors, I did not see anything where the speakers should be. I can't guarantee buying a set of speakers, wire, and mounting hardware will set you up for an easy install. I don't plan on expanding into the rear of the van with speakers, I haul stuff too often to do that. What I would recommend for better sound is a few things: Upgraded speakers, and either an amp and a head unit, or the combo of both like we mentioned will help significantly. I am content with my Rockford 3-way speakers and my powered head unit. If you want to stretch it further, I personally feel like wiring your own tweeters in the a-pillars will be an easier job than putting more in the back of the van. Road noise has to be battled with insulation. I have not gotten to that point in the build yet, but as you can see yourself, there is a ton of opportunity to insulate. Let me know if you have any other questions!
  3. 2 points
    @stanger_missle - Don't think you're overthinking this at all. You're just exploring the what ifs, which is cool. I too have a cargo van with only two speakers in the front doors. Below is a pic of the slider doors speaker mounts you're referring to. Your concerns about road noise are valid. I personally wouldn't bother mounting speakers there. I think that mounting point would be good if you had passengers in this area but it would be a waste otherwise. If you want music for the cab area, then that's where I'd add or upgrade speakers for better sound. If I spent more time in the van I would consider an audio upgrade. Good luck!
  4. 2 points
    Here are some photos of the dog platform and some slight modifications to the sleeping platform to add rigidity without the third-row seats. First, some modifications to the rear platform to add rigidity and to prevent it from sliding when braking. The straps hold the platform on the child seat anchors. The crosspiece is attached to the folding legs with four locking cotter pins, two on each side. The angle brackets are screwed into the crosspiece. There's also a vertical leg at the front of the platform that's held in place with three t-nuts and hex-socket bolts (like the legs on the front platform). That way, it can be removed when the third-row seats are installed since there's no room for it and the third-row seats supply the same rigidity as the leg. You can see the dog platform instead of the second-row seats. Here's a side-view with the bed platform collapsed: It's all just scrap wood and a $20 rubber-backed rug from Target. The rug is held in place with bolts at each corner and staples across the sides. The dog platform is tied to the sleeping platform by rope and a ratcheting pulley to prevent it from sliding forward in the event of heavy breaking. Here's how the sleeping platform extends over the dog platform: There's a hole front and center to allow the front leg of the sleeping platform to slot into place. That way I didn't have to have a different front leg for when we travel with dogs. The platform gives us some storage underneath for their accessories (mostly food and bowls/backpacks) and it gives them a nice flat place to travel that protects their paws from the second-row seat bolts. Needless to say, they loved traveling on it. There was plenty of room to stand, sit, lay, and sleep. It also doubled as a place to store some things while we slept. One dog slept in the front seat, one on the platform with us. There was plenty of space. We also have a travel water dish that we attach to the legs of the rear platform with bungee cords so they have some water while we travel: That's the primary reason for the rubber-backed mat. It also protects the particle board (remember, it's built with scrap wood) from wet, muddy paws and sloppy drinkers. The dog platform, during storage, sits over the platforms. The legs on the dog platform don't fold and are cut to size to make the platform level. There are three short legs on the back of the platform, near the sleeping platform's legs that let it sit over the oddly shaped attachments for the second-row seats. I still haven't had a chance to get some photos of the platform folded and stored; it's not been out of the van long enough.
  5. 1 point
    Eddy Kilowatt

    Transmission dipstick retrofit

    Has anyone looked into whether there's a chance of using a dipstick in this trans? I believe that the first few years of the 6F35, in some applications, had a dipstick... then at some point it was deleted. Did they need the space inside the case for something else? Were too many people being careless and putting dirt back into the transmission? Did they just want to save a buck? For whatever reason, we're left with a level-check procedure that's cumbersome at best -- unless you have a lift -- and an impediment to frequent and regular trans fluid changes. Flipping idly through the manual, it looks like the vent/fill port (upper left in the render below) might go into the solenoid/valve body chamber, which at least doesn't have any spinning or moving parts... I haven't been able to confirm from other views whether that's the case. A tech who overhauls these for a living would probably have the best idea whether there's "stuff" in there that would interfere with a dipstick. Peering into the vent hole with a flashlight (or a borescope!) would probably be the next reality check.
  6. 1 point
    Double Nickels

    Eliminating 4.2" screen on a 2015

    Are you trying to use an OEM camera, or aftermarket?
  7. 1 point
    Fifty150

    SHO Wheels on a '16 TC

    That is the only aftermarket wheel which I was able to find, which has the exact same dimensions as the OEM wheel. For whatever reason, even generic steel wheels do not have the same exact dimensions.
  8. 1 point
    Fifty150

    Low Power/sputtering

    That's a good find. Technicians can spend hours, and still not be able to find something like that.
  9. 1 point
    G B L

    BARN DOORS to Lift Gate

    You could go to Walmart and get a big umbrella that would do the trick for under $50.00 and you could use it at the beach as an added bonus.
  10. 1 point
    desert_connect

    2017 TC XLT simple camper

    Thanks, windguy. Thanks, jrm223. The window is frameless itself but does have the metal door frame around the window inside. An inside screen and magnets could work I'll give that some thought, thanks.
  11. 1 point
    TomBanjo

    Recommendations on Sun Shades (2014)

    You can now get a full set, front row, second row, third row and back glass (lift gate or doors) from HeatShield. They only have the third row set for long wheel base. Go to their website and enter your model information. These are tops not only for shade but for heat deflection, and they hold up way better than any I've ever tried.
  12. 1 point
    desert_connect

    2017 TC XLT simple camper

    We have returned from 12 more days of van camping, this totals up more than 50 nights in two years. The new sliding door window worked out great for extra ventilation along with the lithium gen/batt powered fan and our new little dog likes it too. As a temporary solution for this trip I gorilla taped a piece of fiberglass screen over the outside of the window and cracked the front door windows an inch when parked. Light rain was no problem and the air moving in though the side window and out the front windows seemed to keep the bugs out. Even with 99% humidity inside, according to the meter, the van roof and walls remained completely dry, no dripping like in the past. I will find a better solution for the screen and tweak the fan placement but overall this arrangement was a success.
  13. 1 point
    windguy

    Thule Roof rack and ARB Awing

    Okay, no tracks on the roof. Then why do you care about the factory racks? How wide is your awning? Do you need to have roof racks for other purposes, other than the awning? If not, I would provision two or more mounting brackets for a low cost solution. You might be able to find brackets already made for a ladder rack application. The only downside is that they would be fixed in place when you're not using the awning. That's where a rail and removable foot has its advantage. You'll have to share more about your requirements.
  14. 1 point
    mdarren

    center caps for a 2012

    Looks great. What polishing product did you use?
  15. 1 point
    That would great, thanks. The PWFX mod is very cool, but before seeing that I was considering using some of these blocks I saw for a Jeep. Depending on the spacing between the bolt holes and the pin, I may need to drill/rout a notch in the side. Marinesurveyor, these may work for you too if it’s easier than getting square tubing cut/drilled.
  16. 1 point
    I bought a 3 piece set (windshield and both front side windows) for my Jeep Wrangler from Heatshield. I got the gold color but these fit great and were very well made. The TC has such a huge windshield that a sunshade is a necessity. I see that they make shades for the back door (both styles) and the front side windows for the TC. My van turns into an oven here in Florida. https://www.heatshieldstore.com/
  17. 1 point
    Slamsit

    2010 XLT Slammed

    Another shot:
  18. 1 point
    Check the picture in the pdf. It might give you some ideas.
  19. 1 point
    Tom899

    Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) battery

    The Sam's Club Duracell Group 48 (H6) AGM battery is like the original, just slightly bigger, but still fits and can still use the original top bracket. The posts are exactly in the same place as the original. If I remember, pulling the air cleaner and bellows assembly will give access to removing the battery.
  20. 1 point
    I have been driving vans for a long time. The stigma of the van driver is a stigma to embrace. All the "free candy" sign jokes are a little stale. Besides, I go for a different demographic. My sign says "free champagne." It works great. It gets chicks who would have been in the ocean in a Subaru Brat to like me. Every time. Try it. You will see.
  21. 1 point
    desert_connect

    GEN 2 ROOF RACKS & TRACKS INSTALL

    Excellent write up on your roof rack install. Thanks!
  22. 1 point
    Beta Don

    Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) battery

    I found it - Here's my earlier post Since I already had the battery out, and since it's already 3+ years old, and since it's so doggone difficult to get at . . . . and since I'm hooking up a high current load which will need to run off the battery when I stop for gas or to eat lunch, it only made sense to replace it with something better. Ford has chosen to use 'Ford sized' batteries in all their newer vehicles which I suspect was done to try and enhance battery sales at the dealerships. Our battery is a 'BXT-96R' which doesn't seem to exist anywhere but from Ford - Granted, you can buy a few 'equivalent' size replacements elsewhere Anyway, I wanted a higher capacity battery and I wanted an AGM, so after a good bit of research I settled on a Duracell Group 48 (H6) AGM from Sam's Club - $159.99. It has a 20 amp hour rate of 70 (3.5 amp draw for 20 hours) and much better specs than the OEM battery and it's made in the USA. 3 year free replacement and a 5 year pro-rated warranty Battery Electrolyte Composition: Glass Mat Battery End Type: Top Post BCI Group Size:48 CA at 32 degrees F:875 CCA at 0 degrees F:760 Polarity: Right Positive Reserve Capacity:120 The BXT-96R has only 500 cold cranking amps It's *almost* a drop in replacement for our OEM battery. It's about 1/2 inch taller, but fits in the battery box OK and you can even use the OEM hold down clamp if you remove the rear battery box spacer so the battery can slide back just a little to center the battery on the hold down studs. Then the clamp fits OK if you raise (or remove) the lifting handles that come on the battery - They fold back down after the clamp is installed, so you don't have to remove them If you intend to run high current accessories for even a short time with the engine not running, an upgrade to a better battery is probably a smart move . . . . especially if your current battery is 3 or 4 years old Hope this helps! Don
  23. 1 point
    Beta Don

    Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) battery

    I did. I ran a #4 cable to the back of our 2014 and installed a 500 watt inverter to recharge our Segways as we drive. I wanted a stronger, deep cycle AGM battery under the hood so if we took an hour long lunch with the van shut off, the inverter wouldn't run the battery down - Sounds like exactly what you're wanting to do I don't recall the model number on the battery I used - That info may be listed here in a thread I did about the install . . . . . I'll look later when I have more time. I measured the old battery, measured the inside dimensions of the battery box and found an AGM at Sam's Club which was a little larger than the stock battery (with more amp hours too) and it looked like it would fit and it did. There's a spacer tin the battery box to keep the OEM battery from moving around and if you remove that, there's room for a larger (longer) battery - It can be a bit taller too, IIRC Don
  24. 1 point
    Booner

    Better Battery

    You can configure your alternator to charge your car battery and house battery at the same time, I wrote a long post on how to do it somewhere on this forum about a year ago. Or go to "Battery1234" for instruction on how to do it. I've also purchased a POD (power on demand) to jump start my vehicle in case of a dead battery. I haven't had to use it on my car but I have on a car at the local Wal-Mart and it started right up. I wouldn't travel without it
  25. 1 point
    thx138

    Better Battery

    Die Hard Platinum are made by Odyssey, great battery if they will fit. Say away from the Optima stuff, they are very low quality now.
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