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  1. I did this about 2 years ago and it has been working well. <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/-21ydY_MM6A" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> not sure if I was able to embed this video correctly but here is a direct link to the video also https://youtu.be/-21ydY_MM6A
    5 points
  2. I previously did an update at 100k and 150k and I'm happy to say the van is still humming along great. I still change the oil every 5k miles and get the transmission service every year. Just put on my 4th set of tires but otherwise its been very inexpensive to own. The front is definitely getting pretty ate up with rock chips which is to be expected with this many miles and the fact I drive 95% of the time on the highway. Lifetime average MPG is 23.8 but its been improving as I finally learned to just slow down haha! I'm pretty regularly 25-27 with some 28's sprinkled in there. Where I buy the fuel seems to make a big difference too. I had planned on keeping it to 200 and then doing something else but I'll try to get another year or two out of it unless things start going downhill quickly. I'm still on the original brakes and the interior is holding up nicely. Most people are very surprised how many miles are on it when they see it but I keep it really clean so it always looks good. It still drives very tight and the suspension isn't showing signs of needing replaced either. Windshields seem to be a consumable item on these and I'm due for another one unfortunately. Anyways, just wanted to give an up date and post up if you guys have any questions.
    5 points
  3. Well it took a while but pretty much finished. Has Fridge, shore power, sink, water tank and pump, 12 speed fan, sliding screen windows, house battery , custom pull out bed. ( Bed pulls out to 5’ 7” I’m 5”5) You can can access the fridge and battery from the passenger sliding door. Taken in it out and it is awesome !! So happy.
    5 points
  4. Hey folks, I got my complete guide to turning off approach lights written. It covers all the steps I followed to turn off the approach lights on my 2018 TC Wagon. I tried to be extremely comprehensive with the instructions so I hope it's useful for others. Feedback or more details appreciated.
    5 points
  5. I have successfully converted my 2015 to a manual. I've been using it for work the past month and have put around 2k miles on it with no issues. If anyone is looking to start this project for themselves I'd be happy to answer any questions and share my experiences with it. I'm in the Tampa Bay area
    4 points
  6. Slamsit

    2010 XLT Slammed

    Long time lurker. First time poster. Just a teaser shot here, but it’s very custom. The build is starting to come along, and have paint in the lineup beginning of August. A ton of work already went into it. I’ll try and grab some additional pictures tomorrow. Will look good with a satin while pearl paint. Pic for attention:
    4 points
  7. just got my connect this last saturday, i am excited for it have a lot of good ideas for a tiny camper
    4 points
  8. Regarding FORD Safety Recall 18S20 – Shift Cable Bushing Replacement affecting 2013-2014 Ford Escape, & 2013-2016 Ford Fusion, this failure mode also appears on certain models of the Ford Transit Connect. In my case, I have a 2015 XLT that experienced this failure. The original factory-original bushing is white. The replacement bushing outlined in the recall below is orange. This is a standard Ford part used on "small" chassis Ford vehicles and is common amongst vehicles using this type of transmission shift linkage. The Ford part number for the REPLACEMENT bushing is: DG9Z-7K340-A and can be found at most ANY ford dealership. I paid $5.10USD for it, and ended-up buying two just to have the 2nd one around in case this is actually a recurring problem (or in case I dropped the first one down in the engine bay accidentally during installation!). BACKGROUND: Please note that when I searched for a recall SPECIFICALLY covering this particular failure mode on the Ford Transit Connect I could not find any references to one anywhere. However, a very smart parts guy at my local Ford dealership in Lake Orion, Michigan knew of the problem on the Focus and Escape and had a small box right on his counter full of these replacement bushings. This told me that it's a failure common problem (despite not being specifically referenced to the Transit connect). I suspect that the original plastic bushing was molded from a material not capable of withstanding the constant pressures of the daily shifting cycle. As such, it would seem that if Ford went to all the trouble if initiating a recall action on a number of vehicles with this problem, they wouldn't simply have released the exact same "replacement" bushing, but would have molded it from a more durable material in order to prevent a recurrence. This has been my experience with OEM safety recalls as an auto industry engineer since the OEM is legally responsible for demonstrating to NHTSA that their planned repair solution resolves the safety concern prior to deploying that solution into the field. As such, it is unlikely that NHTSA would have approved an OEM-proposed solution that utilized a bushing the same as the one that originally failed from the factory (common sense?). Incidentally, when replacement parts are produced in a different color, that is usually an indication that they are a different material so that technicians don't erroneously install the wrong replacement part when effecting the repair. Visual cues are important in repair circumstances and used broadly in the auto industry so that quick visual reference can be made when assessing the completion of a safety repair. Here is a link to some of the detail of the recall. REPLACEMENT/INSTALLATION: I knew as soon as I saw the replacement bushing that it was an exact replacement, and as you can see from the photos below it is. To complete the repair, I first snapped the replacement bushing onto the transmission shift lever, then pressed the shift cable onto it. As luck would have it, that was the opposite of the replacement instructions I later found online for the Focus and Escape. regardless, it snapped right in and securely retained the shift cable once installed. The repair took me about 5 minutes and was a bit of a tight squeeze when attempting to get my hands past other 'obstacles' in that area of the engine bay. it was a little challenging holding onto and orienting the replacement bushing when attempting to push my hands past the intake snorkel and fuse box! But, again, it only took 5 minutes total to complete the repair. I hope you find this information helpful. Ken Here are a few photos of the actual linkage and bushing:
    4 points
  9. 3/4" plywood free span between angle iron mounted to side walls. When I got the plywood fresh and moist from Lowes, I cut the main piece the long way spanning and then set it in place with the better side down. I put on weights so it would dry deflected down. After dried, primed and painted I put it in with good side up now with a 1/4" crown. The brace for the foot board was made with bracing removed from the area under the floor. Head of the bed folded down for ease of loading groceries, etc. Full space for bins under bed. Foot of bed folds back to allow mid area fully open to carry dogs.
    4 points
  10. I was always afraid to make a mistake so I didn't want to use glue. I also didn't want to make new holes in the van. It took forever to make sure I only use the existing holes for rivnuts and still have the cedar planking ceiling I've been dreaming of. https://youtu.be/FeSpucwYLW0
    4 points
  11. I then slapped the mat back down and cut out the rubber around the hatch cutout. Dropped in the hatch, popped in the step trim, and screwed down my cargo tie downs. Finished product, thanks for looking at my creation, feel free to ask about anything I might have left out!
    4 points
  12. The file to too large (26MB) to post in the forum. Here is a link to my copy of the file (hopefully it works): https://1drv.ms/b/s!AqEP8g__L8wNoFd8hTTdIiE9pBok?e=KSXXV3
    4 points
  13. Banjeed

    Simple bed

    Still working out storage and a few other things on my weekend warrior build, but wanted to report that a cheap tri-fold queen sized mattress with a california king duvet cover around it work great. I wanted the duvet cover to be oversized so I can still fold the mattress up and put up the 2nd row seats when needed. The back two panels of the mattress needed to be trimmed, which I found a box saw made quick work of. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KWDBZZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GH2Y1V4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    4 points
  14. One last photo of the van build in action ?
    4 points
  15. I do have 2.3.34 test version. Function is located under IPC module, below is the download link. http://forscan.org/download/FORScanSetup2.3.34.test20200521.exe Important notes: 1. Please note this function can increase mileage, not decrease it. So if you enter wrong number that is bigger than have to be, you will not be able to return it back. So please be very careful. 2. Before run the change, please make sure FORScan show correct *current* mileage (it shows it when asks to enter new mileage).
    4 points
  16. drwatt

    New Member

    @Fifty 150 Let's see. If you are sitting in your vehicle with the air on, the multi-speaker stereo blasting, driving an automatic, on cruise control,with the LCDs playing a movie etc., are you really driving? Or just another guy taking refuge from the wife. Sorry but I am 74 years old and can no longer do tent camping. What is the more likely scenario is I'm sitting around a campfire in a forested area watching the moon and the stars while enjoying a cold brew after I grilled a great steak over the campfire. Then when I can't stay awake anymore from all the fresh air, I crawl into my bed and watch the 10 PM news and fall asleep only to be wakened 6 hours later by the chirping birds. Can anyone else vision that?
    4 points
  17. How often any vehicle needs new brakes is 90% a function of the way it's being driven - Most people maintain their desired speed right up to a stop or corner and then use lots of brake to get slowed or stopped. Others take their foot off the gas 100 yards sooner and gradually slow and need to use much less brake. Braking hard while going uphill is a real waste of energy, but I follow people who do it every day - They never seem to figure that just letting off the gas sooner, the laws of physics will slow them down for free. Many times I catch up to them about the time the light turns green and I never had to touch my brakes at all Friction braking is the act of turning the kinetic energy you paid for getting up to speed into heat . . . . and poor gas mileage . . . . and frequent brake jobs. There are more efficient ways to slow down Don
    4 points
  18. Surfing ? People at our age don't surf , very grateful that i can still walk .
    4 points
  19. According to Herb's rules, I need bail money...
    4 points
  20. phollenback

    ForScan

    Hi folks, I've been playing with Forscan on my 2018 TC (specifically to disable approach lights). I wrote up a complete tutorial on my website. I'm just learning Forscan so I'm sure I have some small details wrong, but hopefully that will help others.
    4 points
  21. GBL did a write up which you may find helpful. Very comprehensive. There are several threads on this forum about the 6F35, Mercon LV, etc. G B L T.C. Member 2.5k Region:U.S. Northeast Posted September 25, 2016 Here is the post I did on the Transmission Change. The hardest part of this operation will be getting the TC Jacked up. Should be almost level . Remove the Under body dust shield . Look for the Drain Plug. 11 mm or 7/16 wrench. ] This style funnel will slide down into the Vent plug you just removed Put 3 quarts of fluid in [attacjpg] ] Run the TC for 5 to 10 minutes . Then drain the fluid again. Repeat this 2 more times You have Now used 9 quarts of fluid. Put the Drain plug back in make it snug this time. Add 3 quarts of fluid You have now used 12 quarts. Go under the car and Look for the indicator plug (14 mm wrench) Loosen the plug. Do not remove yet Start the engine with the engine running and the Car in park pull the plug and add fluid into the funnel until it just drips out the Indicator hole Replace plug put the Dust shield on , Pull the funnel and replace the vent cap. Total Fluid 13 Qts. With most of number 13 left There is no filter to change on this operation and the type of fluid is Mercon LV. Have fun!
    3 points
  22. Adding an audio amplifier, power inverter or other high current loads requires connecting heavy gauge cable directly to the battery. The Gen 2 TC’s battery is tucked under the front cowling and is enclosed in a covered box so making this connection difficult. Plus, having a big cable bolted to the battery with a big in-line fuse looks amateurish. There is a professional, safe and easy alternative. The front wall of the battery box holds the high current battery junction box (BJB). This is where all the power is distributed to other fuse blocks and modules in the TC. Remove the air filter housing. The BJB is attached to the front panel of the battery box. This panel lifts up and out to access the battery. Disconnect the (+) terminal and carefully pry open the BJB cover (5 tabs). You will have to cut some cable ties holding the cable on the front of the BJB. Here is the front of the BJB (air filter housing has been removed) This is the inside of the BJB. I have already added a cable on the bottom post of the unused slot on the right. The BJB has 10 circuits from 40A to 150A. The last slot on the right is used for glow plug power (60 amp) for a diesel motor. This slot will be available in all TCs in the United States. Connect your new power cable to the bottom terminal of this or any other open slot. Install the proper size MIDI style Littlefuse brand fuse. Attach with 5mm nylon locking insert nuts. I used #4 AWG cable and this fit with some trimming of the plastic housing. The #4 lug had to be shaved to fit the narrow slot. #4 AWG was overkill in my application. Remove the battery and battery box. Run the cable into the cab using the plastic square knock-out located on the firewall on the left (driver’s) side behind a perforated cutout in the padding/insulation. You can see the knock out under the master cylinder. I routed the cable under the center console. The console is easy to access by removing 4 screws. You do not need to remove any dash panels if you use an electrical fish tape or other stiff wire to pull the new cable under the short section of carpet and padding between the dash and console. The fish tape will poke out under the carpet near the accelerator pedal. Route the cable to your load. Plastic knock-out on the driver side firewall Important notes: Use the proper size and type of cable. I bought power cable designed for automotive audio amps. This is much different from cable used in homes and buildings (THHN for example). Automotive cable has many more strands of wire and is much more flexible…and expensive. Many of the cheaper offerings will be copper clad aluminum and the gauge may not be true. Use pure copper if you can afford it. My cable was sold by Kicker. What size cable? Note that the OEM cables in the BJB are #8 or #10 AWG but they are fused at 50 to 80A. This amperage does not comply with the NEC and does not need to. Do a Google search and you will find that you can safely use # 8 cable for automotive, 12 volt loads of 70 or 80A depending on the length of the run. The #4 AWG cable I used can handle well over 150A. If you are going to run large loads continuously, like power tools or large air compressors, you need to use an external generator. The TC is not a power plant and you should only connect large loads that are on intermittently, like a coffee maker or espresso machine. The standard alternator outputs 88 amps at 1800 rpm (150 amp max), so running the engine may not be enough power for large loads.
    3 points
  23. So after just short of two months I finally received the rear disc brake spindles from the UK. It was roughly $100 for both the left & the right including the hubs as pictured and then roughly another $100 for shipping to the US from the UK using the third party forwarding service Skypax. So I am $200 into this rear disc brake conversion at this point with the first major piece to the puzzle in hand. I will probably just slowly try to acquire the remaining pieces & parts every few months as time and funds allow...I gave the spindles to a buddy of mine from work that does a lot of auto work himself to see if he could clean them up by media blasting them and maybe powder coat them to match the rest of my flipped rear axle from modyourconnect.
    3 points
  24. Gtrgrl

    2020 FL Blue Transit

    Haven't made any permanent changes in my transit yet. Hubby removed 2 passenger side seats, I'm folding down the 2 on the driver's side and have put up some accessories/ curtains. Bought a small porta potty and a small table top size fridge that has a 12V and a 110 plug. Still have plans to put an inverter to have on board electricity but wanted to stay overnight as a test. Fortunately was cool, so didn't need a/c. Fun success! Hubby has a promaster, so I'm fortunate to have his knowledge to help me. ☺️
    3 points
  25. Attached is what I came up with.
    3 points
  26. mrtn

    Isn't this the cutest van

    https://www.topgear.com/car-news/electric/royal-mails-new-electric-delivery-van-just-cutest
    3 points
  27. mrtn

    Window Tint

    You're really bad at foruming. Or everything really.
    3 points
  28. Don Ridley

    Dashboard Cover.

    Who uses dash covers in the 21st century? In the 1970s and 1980s dash plastic was poorly formulated and cracked when exposed to the sun. This has been corrected in vehicles mfg in this century. Maybe you are saving the dash for the next owner. I'm sure they will greatly appreciate it.
    3 points
  29. Now that's the kind of answer I'm looking for! Thanks for that! It does appear to be the same part, and since I was going to buy a new pan to have welded anyway, I might as well just buy one that comes with the plug already installed. Many thanks!
    3 points
  30. Dorman 265-879 came in a mazda that uses the same pan that already has a drain plug. cheap too!!!
    3 points
  31. Nokay

    New FTC/Van owner

    With this post and the one I posted in brakes/suspension not getting responses I will just post updates to my build here. Feel free to move mods. Raised the front seats with 2” delrin spacers that my friend helped make since he’s significantly better at machining than I am and I’ve been crazy busy, sub under drivers seat, added the 2nd row single seat, A/T tires (215/65/16 Falken - Wildpeaks) and rebuilt the false floor with an access hatch (same friend helped chop the legs and make the adjustable feet). I wanted to reclaim the space under the false floor and it needed to be strong enough to put motos in. We used the stock L bracket that the original floor was bolted to and dropped it down so that the new floor is flush to the rear and also bolts into said L bracket. Using pocket screws I attached a front piece so things don’t go in or out the front of the floor area. I didn’t put it under as there is more than enough support using the extrusion and it gave me a little more space. I figured out the stock rear strut length and am in the process of building some shocks. Hoping I can pull the stock strut soon to dyno match the compression curve so I can install it once and have a great tune. Going with an air shock to be able to pump it up when hauling a moto and/or other gear for trips and take air our when not hauling heavier loads. I also ordered the TEMA 30mm spacer kit. I did a few other small things but I’ll stop boring myself. Here’s some pics.
    3 points
  32. mortal

    My new old 2016 TC

    Yes that is us, a lot of work there. Everything made with old stone, restoration took us 10 years. Few acres of land and forest to clean regularly. We won award The best place to stay outside city in year 2018.
    3 points
  33. Hello, thought I'd share some photos of my custom camperization for anyone interested/inspired to do the same. It took me a few months to complete, and definitely learnt a lot along the way. Despite being boxy, there are no straight lines to work off of! Pretty much every piece of wood had to be custom measured and cut (often multiple times). Since finishing it, I've been on lots of road trips on the West Coast of Canada and US. The TC handles it all! Feel free to ask any questions about the build or one's about your project.
    3 points
  34. I agree with jrm223 about the Reflectix, I've seen many people using it wrong. It works great in an attic where you would lay the sheets over the existing insulation and it reflects heat away from the living space. The foam boards were an option for me but I wanted to avoid the possible noise it would create vibrating against the steel exterior. Plus it's very difficult to get the foam board into the many voids of the body. Spray foam was also an option but I didn't want to risk spraying too much in and bulging out the exterior, I did this on my boat, under the 1/8 aluminum bench seats and it bulged it out. Maybe the window and door foam would be okay. The other option was fiberglass insulation which I wasn't crazy about because I HATE working with that stuff and it puts out fibers into the air. Even though I had plans to completely cover it with panels, I was still concerned about the fibers finding their way out around the edges. Then I discovered 3M makes rolls of Thinsulate. The same stuff that's used in clothing but in 5 foot by however long rolls you want. This stuff was designed for exactly what we wanted to accomplish, excellent r-value, noise reduction, moisture resistance, and no dust fibers. I believe they use this stuff on boats as well. It is a bit pricey but worth it IMO. You can push it into all the voids and for the long runs on the roof and sides, you can use the 3M spray adhesive to help keep it from sagging. It comes in different thicknesses, I used the thickest version, the 600 https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Thinsulate-Acoustic-Insulation-SM600L/?N=5002385+3292659035&rt=rud On a side note, I also used sound deadening black butyl on the exterior sheet metal. This stuff reduces vibration, not necessarily road noise. The insulation will lessen the road noise, it's two different types of sound deadening and used in conjunction it's brilliant. When you apply the butyl, you only need to cover 25% of the area you are trying to sound deaden. Past the 25-35% coverage results in reduced returns, more weight, more work, and more cost. If you decide to go the 100% coverage route, it will definitely reduce more sound but not by much. My main concern was weight. My initial plan was to put 72 sq ft of that stuff on, so I ordered 2 boxes. When I felt the weight of just 1 box, I realized how much weight I was adding, so I cut it back especially after learning about reduced returns. Most of my research on sound deadening was done on car audio sites. If you start tearing your van apart, you will see the factory butyl sheets. I always wondered why they didn't cover the whole thing, now I know. You are just trying to add mass to the metal panel. More mass requires more energy to vibrate it.
    3 points
  35. This thread inspired me to do the swap too. Here's my swap. Original: Dumped the 24C32F EEPROM from my original cluster and transferred mileage details (0xF54 to 0xF67) to the new one. Original monochrome cluster's EEPROM is right on the back. Easy access. Color LCD display's EEPROM was on the other side so complete disassembly of cluster including gauges required for access. Done! Pretty fun and straight forward mod!
    3 points
  36. My buddy Brett at The Custom Shop in Astoria NY made a new series for their youtube content. It actually featured the VAN!!! I wasn't expecting it as well. I was also told we are getting a 20 minute spotlight video on their channel with a sit down talk about the build, discussion and everything else that went into it with some roller shots in the wild. Here is the link that discusses some of the work that went into it. You can watch from the beginning to see everything they do, or scroll up to 13 minutes in!!!
    3 points
  37. SkiZo This is how I deal with barn doors and a tarp attached to roof rack. Modified from another members design,can't remember who.Windguy maybe?? Standard conduit fittings.For wider tarp ,I have 2 pieces of foam pipe insulation with a slit that slide on to the top of the door.
    3 points
  38. Anything? Ho ho ho! Another option might be a simple DIY job with PlastiDip. Hit YouTube for some outstanding examples of work done using that. It'll stay where you put it, but once you're done, peel it right off.
    3 points
  39. Go with the class 3. You don't want a class 2, only to have to buy all new accessories, since you already have what you need for a 2" receiver.
    3 points
  40. If you are looking at a TC that is still in the 3 -36000 or the 5-60000 Power train warranty then a Car Fax would help. You can go on line and check to see what the service recalls for the Year TC are and The carfax will tell you if they are done. I always want to see the car up on a lift because the underside will tell you lots about the abuse that the TC has had. A good honest independent with a scanner can do a good inspection .
    3 points
  41. Hi everyone- this is my first post showing my new (used) 2016 Transit Connect Cargo that I bought a few months ago with 26,000 miles on it. I haven't owned an American car since the 1970's and I have to say, this van feels tight, it's quiet, handles great and has really good power- very peppy and fun to drive! I'm getting about 27-28MPG on road trips. A job well done by Ford in design and build quality. I had a 2001 Isuzu Trooper for 18 years and this has so much more room and handles so much lighter. I'm using it for my Carbon Cleaning business and as an everyday driver. As you'll see in the photos, I'm also getting it ready for camping this fall. The bed platform in the back is removable so I can load my business machines or set it up for camping. I can't wait until autumn to try it out! Feel free to ask any questions about the stuff I've built inside. I still want to mount 2 more eye hooks in the front of the roof for my camping awnings to clip onto- I just have to take the time to pull the headliner down so I can bolt them on inside. I'm gonna tint the rear and sliding door side windows too and maybe a tint strip along the top of the windshield. As you can see, I've upgraded the stereo to a Kenwood double DIN unit with 2 USB inputs for Apple CarPlay off my iPhone and I use my iPad for navigation. The drivers door armrest has one screw holding it in but the passenger armrest simply slides down between the seats and it's base sits on the floor- it's rock solid. They were easy to make out of pine. I have a Thule box for the roof too for longer trips. The VanTech rails came with the van. My craftsmanship isn't as fancy as some I've seen on here, but it gets the job done
    3 points
  42. Racing stripes being acceptable is a matter of opinion.... I am sure we all agree this driver has issues.
    3 points
  43. The 70's was a turbulent decade.
    3 points
  44. Wait a minute ......you actually followed Barry Manilow around..... like a groupie ? Never mind not important , nice jack stands by the way .
    3 points
  45. @bone - great job on your installation. Thanks for sharing your work. I too captured this storage space in my 2015 cargo with a different approach. I couldn't stand the vinyl cargo mat so used carpeting on plywood instead. I separated the foam from the vinyl mat and used that as filler under the plywood, which is very good sound proofing material. It's great to have the extra storage space making use of this dead space. Time for you to finish those bare door panels next! I used black paint on mine. Gives the van a nice finished detail.
    3 points
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