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Posted (edited)

I need advice on how best to tap power off the rear cargo 12VDC accessory outlet wiring (brown wire in pic).

I want to add an outlet on the driver's side and run a few low power LED lights, all for occasional use.

Thanks!

 

 

rear outlet wiring.jpg

Edited by windguy

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Although I ended up going a different route when I added extra accessories to my 2015 Wagon, I had considered tapping into the same wiring. One of the neater products I came across in my research was a product called Posi Tap which would seem to make for a much nicer and more reliable connection than most of the typical tap connectors. I never ended up using them so I can't speak from personal experience, but if I have the need in the future, it's what I'll be trying unless I come across something better.

https://www.amazon.com/Lockitt-POSI-TAP-Assortment-connectors-10-22/dp/B00CMC5DII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525137506&sr=8-1&keywords=posi+tap&dpID=51T5CZNu9-L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

 

And if you need a higher power circuit to tap, that white/red wire in the photo at the bottom of the trailer tow module should be the 12v supply from a 40A fuse. At least that's what my 2015 wiring diagram book shows.

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Thanks Don. The Posi-tap looks like an easy product to use that would work well for this type of application.

Thanks for pointing out the other wire to tap. I think in this case I'll be okay with the brown wire.

 

Question - when taping into this circuit and make connections, can I just remove the fuse for this circuit rather than the battery cable?

Seems like it would be easier to pull the fuse than mess with the battery. Thanks!

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Posi-tap connectors work great. You need the proper connector for the wire size. The brown wire looks like 16ga. Use the 12-18ga one:

http://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html

 

Pulling the fuse is the proper way to work on this circuit.

 

What outlet are you adding? Google 12v usb outlet and there are many options. Don't get me started about the ridiculous format of 12v outlets... it's a cigarette lighter......!

Edited by Don Ridley

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Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, Don Ridley said:

Posi-tap connectors work great. You need the proper connector for the wire size. The brown wire looks like 16ga. Use the 12-18ga one:

http://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html

 

Pulling the fuse is the proper way to work on this circuit.

 

What outlet are you adding? Google 12v usb outlet and there are many options. Don't get me started about the ridiculous format of 12v outlets... it's a cigarette lighter......!

 

Thanks for the help Don. Will pull the fuse to do the electrical work.

 

I noticed that Home Depot stocks a tap-splice solution that looks like it will do the same job and costs a little less. Using these is probably better than my original thought of cutting the wire and using a standard twist wire connector to join all three wires together. I have plenty of those available but it's kind of crude and not as clean looking, if that matters.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-22-10-AWG-Tap-Splice-Assortment-5-Case-15-2210/202522123

 

I bought the 12VDC outlet linked below.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018WZI0P6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I must have spent hours looking at all the combo outlet and switch options but couldn't find exactly what I wanted. My preference is to have the outlet mounted like the other side, on top of the side panel but a little further back perhaps. The switches I'm adding will be near the rear door, driver's side, above the opening in the panel for the jack. I bought the 3 switch panel shown below.

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Multi-Purpose-Single-Rocker-Triple-Switch-Black-p/19-0160.htm

 

Spent hours looking at all those options too. Crazy. One switch is for the outlet, the other for the rear lights and the third for the lights in the middle area. I also got a single switch that will be mounted just inside the driver's side slider on the edge of the panel to control the middle area lights. Both switches will control the same middle set of lights but not in a 3-way configuration, which isn't really necessary for this install. I'll make a separate post showing all this at some point with other mods I'm making. Just trying to work out some details so I can round up all the necessary parts.

Edited by windguy

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12 hours ago, windguy said:

... using a standard twist wire connector to join all three wires together.

If you mean this type used in residential wiring, they aren't suitable for use in automotive applications. The continuous vibration present in an automotive application can cause them to loosen. For automotive use you need connectors designed for that application, usually a crimp type connector. Soldering is the best method to rejoin wires.

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5 hours ago, DonShockley said:

If you mean this type used in residential wiring, they aren't suitable for use in automotive applications. The continuous vibration present in an automotive application can cause them to loosen. For automotive use you need connectors designed for that application, usually a crimp type connector. Soldering is the best method to rejoin wires.

 

Yes, that was my initial thought, but I will follow your advise and use a tap-splice fitting. Never considered the vibration part - good point.

For my other connections, I bought a crimper/stripper tool and a set of crimp terminals and some heat shrinking. Tried out a few and they seem to work nicely. Thanks for the consult.

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Posted (edited)
On 5/1/2018 at 4:03 PM, windguy said:

I noticed that Home Depot stocks a tap-splice solution that looks like it will do the same job and costs a little less. Using these is probably better than my original thought of cutting the wire and using a standard twist wire connector to join all three wires together. I have plenty of those available but it's kind of crude and not as clean looking, if that matters.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-22-10-AWG-Tap-Splice-Assortment-5-Case-15-2210/202522123

 

Do yourself a favor and never use this type of splice on any type of wiring unless it is for some one you do not like. These are quick and cheap and very unreliable.

The twist on wire nut definitely have issues with vibration. The posi Tap connectors are good .  As Don has stated The  best is crimping or soldering with heat shrink


 

 
Edited by G B L

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Word. Cut-solder-heatshrink is King.

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2 hours ago, G B L said:

Do yourself a favor and never use this type of splice on any type of wiring unless it is for some one you do not like. These are quick and cheap and very unreliable.

The twist on wire nut definitely have issues with vibration. The posi Tap connectors are good .  As Don has stated The  best is crimping or soldering with heat shrink


 

 

 

Okay, thanks GBL.

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5 minutes ago, mrtn said:

Word. Cut-solder-heatshrink is King.

 

Thanks mrtn. I best fire up the solder iron to make sure it's still working.

 

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5 hours ago, G B L said:

Do yourself a favor and never use this type of splice on any type of wiring unless it is for some one you do not like.


 

 

 

 

Now that is some sound advice.  :thumbsup:

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Windguy,

This is the best solution:

 

Create an additional circuit using OEM components and methods. The AJB is easy to access. Install a fuse for your application and wire size. Doesn't get any better than this. The fuse block connectors are available on Amazon.

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4 hours ago, Don Ridley said:

Windguy,

This is the best solution:

 

Create an additional circuit using OEM components and methods. The AJB is easy to access. Install a fuse for your application and wire size. Doesn't get any better than this. The fuse block connectors are available on Amazon.

 

Thanks Don.

I don't see an AJB in my cargo van. Pic below.

After GBL's comment, I did some checking and it appears there is a consensus that tap-splice connectors have some level of being unreliable.

I will make a solder connection instead and keep it simple. Thanks for the help!

 

 

 

 

 

P1060414.JPG

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