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Mita

2005 transit connect won't crank?

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No leaks but it was in very humid conditions as there is mould on the seats and on dash in places. Not terrible but it's there 

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12 minutes ago, G B L said:

Check and see if the scan tool lights up  with power at the Obd  connector .

Check out the Immobilizer section of the manual.  Any water leak's in the TC/

 

Scan tool lit up and had power. Are the hand held ones battery operated? Or do they just take power from the OBD port ? 

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The answer is both, some do have their own power some do not.

Is there any mold or dampness in the fuse box areas?  Did you download the manual yet? The section on the Immobilizer is worth looking at.

 

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Sorry for delay. Battery run out on phone! I'm d loading manual now hopefully. 

 

No mould or visible damp in either box. I looked at ECU behind glove box and externally it's ok 

Edited by Mita

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1 hour ago, G B L said:

The answer is both, some do have their own power some do not.

Is there any mold or dampness in the fuse box areas?  Did you download the manual yet? The section on the Immobilizer is worth looking at.

 

Ive looked at the manual on Ford UK. Its starting to sound like an immobiliser problem? Its states -

 

DISARMING THE ENGINE IMMOBILISER

The engine immobiliser is disarmed automatically when you switch the ignition on with a correctly coded key.
The indicator in the instrument cluster will come on for approximately three seconds and then go out. If the indicator stays on for one minute or flashes for approximately one minute and then repeatedly at irregular intervals, your key has not been recognised. Remove the key and try again.
If you are unable to start the engine with a correctly coded key, this indicates a malfunction. Have the immobiliser checked immediately.
 
--- My indicator just flashes as if the van is locked, it doesn't come on to solid when I insert key nor does it flash at irregular intervals. It just stays flashing at 3 second intervals. I have left it like this for well over a minute more like 5 minutes with ignition on and nothing changes? So it seems like the key isn't being recognised?? 

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You could be right    Here is something to try .  Disconnect both battery cables and put the two cables together to completely drain all the residual energy from the system.  This is know as a hard reset and might work it can't hurt Remember both cables must be off the Battery. 

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1 minute ago, G B L said:

You could be right    Here is something to try .  Disconnect both battery cables and put the two cables together to completely drain all the residual energy from the system.  This is know as a hard reset and might work it can't hurt Remember both cables must be off the Battery. 

Hey mate, 

 

I have done that, it re set the odometer and it was reading the mileage again so I thought it had worked! But once I turned the key it went back to -------- and the same problem - No crank :( 

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One thing which may or may not be of use?? My drivers side door handle is sticking, i have to bang it for it to work, sometimes the key won't lock or un lock that door and i have to un lock passenger side? Would this send the immobiliser funny?

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I'm also wondering if its a bad ground? They all look pretty rusty to be honest and its certainly a new thing since its been sat? I will give them all a clean up as I'm thinking this may be another issue too? 

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You have put the two battery cables in contact with each other?

How may coded keys do you have?  Were both keys used in the lock you hit?

The Rust could be an issue and if there is rust there the fuses might  need to be pulled and cleaned

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16 minutes ago, G B L said:

You have put the two battery cables in contact with each other?

How may coded keys do you have?  Were both keys used in the lock you hit?

The Rust could be an issue and if there is rust there the fuses might  need to be pulled and cleaned

I have 2 (blue) coded keys, thats what I've always had for the past 7 years no issue. Ive not used the fob now for around 5 years so I unlock and lock doors with the key. 

 

Yes I've put them in contact and held for 30 seconds :) 

 

If I was to buy a new ignition switch would that be plug and play? And would it be worth a shot?

 

I'm going to clean all grounds I can find as they're all looking pretty rusty and dirty. All fuse connections are fine and clean 

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BTW one other thing is I'm not sure if the hazards flash when I lock and un lock now? Will need to check , but if they don't thats pointing in the direction of immobiliser? 

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Also is it worth changing the ignition switch? And is it plug and play? 

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It should be plug and play, But If the dash lights up and functions that is probably not the problem.  If  the switch was failing to engage the starter  it would have started when you jumped the starter solenoid 

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1 minute ago, G B L said:

It should be plug and play, But If the dash lights up and functions that is probably not the problem.  If  the switch was failing to engage the starter  it would have started when you jumped the starter solenoid 

Ahh ok thats fair enough. I think my next thing is to go over all grounds and clean up connections? 

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2 minutes ago, G B L said:

Check the Grounds and here is a link to some very good info on the Immobilizer system .

http://www.diagwiki.com/ford-pats-immobilizer

Looking for clues myself

Thank you thats a great link :) 

 

I'm assuming the main grounds to check are in the bay? Or should I look everywhere? 

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There are grounds in a lot of places on these newer cars.

Here's another Video for you to watch there is a Video on the problem

http://www.askthemechanic.co.uk.

Edited by G B L

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Thank you again for all your help :) 

 

Lets hope its a ground issue 

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One question, is it ok to remove the ECU/PCM and open it up and check for damp etc? I assume the PCM is the same as the ECU!? It's the box behind the dash on the right side of the van 

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Just now, mrtn said:

Yes, disconnect the battery first.

Hi MRTN 

 

thanks for the reply. I just noticed you commented on another thread regarding a door lock issue. I have a theory and wondered what you thought? Is the immobiliser linked also to the door locks? In other words when you un lock the van it flashes the hazards and de immobilises the van? I have a sticky handle / mechanism on my drivers side door. Sometimes it won't lock or un lock or open! I need to check if it flashes the hazard lights on lock or un lock. But let's say it doesn't could this be a problem? So I'm getting in to my van and it's still imobilised? Or once the key goes in the ignition it should do the same thing anyway? Am I making sense? 

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Also I plan on taking my PCM out of its box and checking for any damp or mould. As long as I don't get any static discharge is this a good idea? 

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PCM is out and nothing visually damp or bad. Ive had literally half an hour free today. I'm off Tuesday so will get to work on the grounds. The 2 by the battery under the air box snorkel are rusty as hell so that's the first stage.

Another idea has occurred to me. I appreciate I have to find the fault. But looking on e bay I can but an "ECU kit" which includes PCM, transponder box , transponder ring, 2 keys and all barrels. I'm thinking this would eliminate not only a PCM fault but also an imobiliser one? If I get much more stuck I'm considering it? Any opinions? And also does the Connect require the clocks for communication with the PCM or is that 2006 onwards? 

Many thanks 

Edited by Mita

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Start with the obvious connection issues.

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