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Had the day off Friday so I decided it was time to add heated seats to my Van. This isn't my first rodeo with adding heated seats to a car that didn't come with them from the factory. The first step was to yank the seats:

 

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Having an elevated work area makes things go a bit faster:

 

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Disassemble, add the heating element, reassemble:

 

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We pulled the center console and mounted up the switches:

 

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Wired everything up to switched power and we're off to the races:

 

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No more cold butts!

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Great project - well done!

Thanks for sharing

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What kit/parts did you use to add the heated seats?

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On 6/22/2017 at 7:18 AM, chong said:

Test fitting the awning. I need to make a quick run to the hardware store before I can leave it up there, but it should be pretty excellent.

35295820222_d8b22382bf_z.jpg.de47eb9488937641369423a859f3081a.jpg

Which awning is that?

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How high up is the awning when open? I was trying to guess your wife's height but didn't get anywhere with it. 

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21 hours ago, mrtn said:

How high up is the awning when open? I was trying to guess your wife's height but didn't get anywhere with it. 

She's 4'11" I'm 6'5". The car side of the awning is probably right around 6'6", but the poles on the other side telescope and we can make that end a bit higher if desired.

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Just ordered some custom aluminum extrusions with appropriately sized t-nuts to make a much nicer interior bike rack. Parts should be here around the 2nd week of December. Can't wait to get the parts in and install them. Should make switching up the fork mounts a 5 minute operation.

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On 12/2/2016 at 8:45 AM, chong said:

The first thing to do was to run the wiring from the engine compartment into the cabin. We ran this through the stock grommet in the firewall behind the glove box on the passenger side. We ran one 2AWG wire to the positive battery terminal and one 2AWG wire to the stock chassis ground next to the battery. We installed one of the Fuse Block Terminals and Slow blow fuses between the starter battery and the add a battery kit:

I'm about to add the add a battery kit and you mentioned going through the grommet behind the glove box. Did you remove the glove box and if you did was it hard to get out?

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52 minutes ago, JoeMan said:

I'm about to add the add a battery kit and you mentioned going through the grommet behind the glove box. Did you remove the glove box and if you did was it hard to get out?

I did remove the glove box and it was not hard to get out, but I'm pretty sure we had to cut some plastic to be able to pull it off the pegs (I don't think it was designed to be removed with the dash in the vehicle). Doesn't really hurt any functionality, but you should be careful putting it back in as it will weaken it a bit if you aren't careful. For the record, my glove box hasn't fallen out and I keep it pretty loaded up! Take this bit of information with a grain of salt, my memory is pretty fuzzy.

 

Also be careful running the wire through the grommet. There is almost 0 room and if you manage to unseat the grommet, the sheet metal is damn sharp and you'll risk stripping the jacket off either the wire you're running or the wiring that's already there.

 

Good luck!

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In my 2015 LWB TC to remove the glove box you just have to slide out the hinge pins. Unfortunately, I didn't learn the pins just slide out until I had broken a piece off the hinge. But not enough to harm it's operation. When you look at it, there appears to be a catch in a slot that needs to be released. But it's not really a catch. It's just a ridge that pops into the opening to keep the pin from sliding out accidentally. One end of the pin has a head, in my case the head ends are towards the middle of the glove box. Hook a screw driver or a pry bar under the head and push the pin towards the middle and it just pops out.

Edited by DonShockley

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Thanks for the heads up on the glovebox. If I broke something it wouldn't be the first thing I screwed up and I've only had it a month. I already had to retap a D-ring tie down thread hole. Doh!

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Got my custom rails that will make up my bike racks in the mail yesterday. The idea is that the fork mounts will bolt into the channels with T-Nuts allowing me to slide them from side to side depending on the bikes I want to carry. Can't wait to get these installed. We leave for our next road trip in 2.5 weeks!

 

37845224495_926fb7d705_z.jpg.b5a9cf38ad33b0015ece8573937f1547.jpg

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What are these bolts/nuts, M4? Look really tiny for the application.

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22 hours ago, mrtn said:

What are these bolts/nuts, M4? Look really tiny for the application.

They are various sizes to fit the various racks (some require smaller bolts). They range from M3 to M6.

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On 11/18/2017 at 9:30 PM, DonShockley said:

In my 2015 LWB TC to remove the glove box you just have to slide out the hinge pins. Unfortunately, I didn't learn the pins just slide out until I had broken a piece off the hinge. But not enough to harm it's operation. When you look at it, there appears to be a catch in a slot that needs to be released. But it's not really a catch. It's just a ridge that pops into the opening to keep the pin from sliding out accidentally. One end of the pin has a head, in my case the head ends are towards the middle of the glove box. Hook a screw driver or a pry bar under the head and push the pin towards the middle and it just pops out.

Even with your advice I broke the hinges. I struggled to get the pins out with the limited space under the dash but couldn't get the screwdriver in to pop them. Then I tried opening the glove and going over the top and next thing I know I hear a crack. Whoops:cry:. Pins came out after that. Looks like the weight of the glovebox rests on the top where it's not broke and won't be to much of an issue just sucks it just seems like an easy thing till you try. Bad design.

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Got my new bike rack installed. This was definitely a worthwhile upgrade! Previously, I was just screwing the fork mounts down to the floor, which worked fine, but if I ever needed to carry different bikes I had to spend a lot of time moving things around to make sure everything would fit. Now I can just slide them around in the channels. 

 

Test fitting my Fat Bike rack:

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Front channel mounted in the van:

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Rear channel mounted in the van:

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Test fitting the bike:

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With the previous location of that mount, my tire would rest up against the rear door. Now I have some clearance:

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That's my longest bike, so everything else should fit perfectly. I drove about 400 miles round trip yesterday to participate in Global Fatbike Day. The rack was rock solid. This was definitely money well spent. 

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