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PATWS6

Transit Loosing Ignition power while driving, please help!

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Mk1 diesels have had regular issues with alternator grounding. Worth checking.

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You are doing all the right things.  The fact that charging the battery  cures it for two days is very interesting. Knowing the level of charge of the battery after two days before the charge would help. Do you have a hydrometer ?

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That's why I added an additional ground from the alternator bracket to the frame and it still is doing it. No I don't have a hydro meter

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Would like to know if the state of charge  of the battery is less after two days. I need to see the wiring diagram for the Gen 1

Quite a puzzle

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Noticed today while driving that it will constantly lose power gauges flicker and radio goes off. If I floor the car and bring the RPMs over 3k it suddenly has all the electrical power in the world and all the flickering stops. I know it's got an internal voltage reg on the alternator all wires seem to be in tact I traced it back through the loom. Stumped

thanks guys

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No chance the belt is sliping ? IF you open the hood just after you shut off the engine is the alternator pulley  very hot ?

Edited by G B L

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Belt is tight it's doing all kinds of s**t now like not turning the fans off

Edited by 103west43rd
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Does charging the Battery after two days still Help?

You need a good scan tool that can check the BCM (body Control Module)

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Yes it does still having the problem. Fixing to sell the csr

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High cool fan was not working due to a 50amp fuse blowing. Ac was low 2 cans. I ripped the whole wiring harnass apart starting at the main fuse box under the hood. Started with the largest wires and traced out and confirmed either 12v 5v reference or ground. Found all kinds of s**t. The power junction splice between the alt  coming in and battery coming out is a complete cluster f**k. Anyway the van is running great ac is mega cold and I didn't find anything to confirm a ground or power issue, so I'm sure the problem is still there we have only put 100 miles on it. I don't know where else to go with this issue. Again, i can only confirm its a power issue when the problem happens by going WOT once over 3k RPMs it has all the electrical power in the world. Lol

Edited by 103west43rd
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Hey fixing the fan and the AC could make the under hood temps much lower.  The Alternator output  and voltage gets much lower as the temp rises.  You may have found the  issue. 

Looking forward to the next post.

Carry on

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I recently had AC issues on a large truck and that the cab fan would not run and once the R134 was back to normal levels all was well again. The smart logic to save systems sometimes can be perplexing. 12 bucks for the R134 sure beat a new controller or fan assembly.

Good luck

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Van still acting like the battery is dead when u turn it off and take the key out all you can hear is a relay clicking super annoying and it won't go off until key is in the on position

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The relay cycles when you switch the ignition off? For how long.

If it cycles can you trace where you hear the noise?

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It was the small ground wire that is grounded at the battery the crimp on eyelet had a bad crimp/connection. Hasn't seen problem again.

footnotes: these vans are G A R B A G E

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Nice you figured it out.    Hopefully it will start to give reasonable service . 

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It was a factory oem connector that was bad let it be known 

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Hey Lots of cars from many different  factories have had electrical connector issues.  It is never a  pleasant experience to be in the middle of that kind of problem.  You at least have the satisfaction of knowing how much time it took and not having to wonder why you got a giant bill for what seemed like a small problem.

Hope the Service from your Van continues to improve 

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