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Factory Hitch Install completed


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Got It all done and hauled 350 pounds of 6x8 board on board wood fence on my 200 pound folding trailer,,(estimated weight of trailer)..

Works great, and with about 550 pounds being pulled I felt nothing at all.

No spare tire conflict but as another member noted I will loose some shin skin If I leave It as Is, I think a receiver run/stop light will solve this. 

They are cheap,,about $20 , had one before, an extra bright light Is a good thing :P

 

Small 2.jpg

Edited by Osco
picture change
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Cost,,,, Ok this was because I was way too busy to do It myself,,Time Is money and all that..

Receiver $150 

Wiring kit $39,,,NOTE : The Ford Factory Kit was $75 and My Installer, (Topper King) would not use it because they WOULD NOT splice into the vehicle wiring.

Kudo's Topper King, Kudo's

Labor for the receiver Install was $100

Labor For the wiring kit was $150

Total out lay Tax Included $470

I'm happy :P

Edited by Osco
Bad Speeling :P
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We got a rather large local company down here,, near me called,  'RedNeck Trailer'. (They got branches all over I think) All I need Is the time to stop in..

http://www.redneck-trailer.com/

They got coupler's by the case load in the show room.

My Harbor freight trailer me build it kit was just what I needed, but,,the chinese channel iron axle, hubs, wheels and tires wen't straight to the county dump.

Redneck fixed me up with a proper axle, good hubs that spun true and wheels and tires that would not shake my stuff to pieces :P

It's the one In the above pictures~~

Edited by Osco
Bad Speeling
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  • 3 weeks later...
On 7/20/2016 at 5:40 AM, T0ASTERvan said:

You're braver than I my friend. I just don't see our TC being used to tow a trailer, but your trailer seems fitting for you. Small enough to keep in tow without hindering the van or obstructing your view. What are you planning on towing/hauling?. Have you checked to see if the trailer shimmies or wobbles back and forth?.. Like I said I've never had a trailer none placed anything in tow with any of our vehicles so I haven't a clue what to look for. GL

No shimmies or wobbles as I said I got a GOOD axle/hub/tire/wheel set up. I took it the long way with the small load stated below, perfectly smooth at 75 on the Interstate, No Issues with stopping or sway, My setup Is just too light.

My only 'LOADED' trailer ride was just an estimated 350 pounds of wood fences sections strapped down flat being returned to the supply warehouse. I could not even feel the trailer behind me, My wild guess is the trailer is 250-350 ish pounds with my new better axle. This trailer max load capacity is only 1200 pounds, so fully loaded plus the trailer would keep me well under 2,000 pounds. I will never put much on it weight wise anyways. I doubt I will ever haul more than 500 pounds actually.

This FORD FACTORY hitch system, IMO they got it aftermarket I bet :P, BUT It had no stickers so who knows, anyway It's a 2" receiver frame mounted set up, the hitch system is rated for 3,500 pounds but my Transit is only rated at 2,000 pounds so I have no worries at all about my equipment.

BTW I DID use the sport feature on the transmission and the higher shift points were smooth. not needed but felt good In city traffic.

And I had the trailer tires balanced, do not forget this IMO critical step...

Edited by Osco
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I ordered the factory hitch from my dealer, but no wiring yet. I see in the manual there's a fuse in the cargo compartment fuse box for a trailer tow module but guess what? I don't have a cargo compartment fuse box on my 2015 LWB XLT Cargo Van! Does anyone know what I'm going to have to do to properly wire a trailer hitch?

Thanks.

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E-tralier has the wiring adapter for the TC  if you do not have a rear fuse box you will have to run a fused 12 volt supply from the front. The instructions's that come with the harness adapter spell it out.

Good Luck Keep us posted

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The Ford Accessory Wiring Kit I had installed in my 2015 Wagon doesn't use the factory trailer fuse location even though I do have the rear cargo fuse box. The Ford kit connects at the High Current Junction Box that's on the front side of the battery box under the hoood. The wiring instructions were hard to find and the original source I used no longer has the file available. And my copy of the file is to big to upload directly on the forum, so here's a link to the file in my Google Drive account:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2no1NZQbXg0b19VUXNGSUMxdVU

The instructions cover multiple vehicles and the Transit Connect section is about in the middle of the file. And here's some pix of the wiring controller and power supply attachment in my 2015.

20150929_160947 with arrow.jpg20150806_225556.jpg

Edited by DonShockley
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32 minutes ago, buckethead said:

... I was thinking I could do this myself, until I came to the splicing part......

There are DIY ways to tap into circuits, they are just not as bulletproof as the Ford approved method. Although using simple tap connectors can have their own risks, some of the newer style connectors seem designed to minimize the risks while still being usable for DIY work. Since the taps needed for the Ford wiring kit install are all internal and both accessible and protected behind the trim panels, waterproofing and damage resistance of the DIY taps may be sufficient if done carefully and properly.

Personally, I try to avoid permanent taps and am very good at soldering if it's needed. But sometimes tight quarters or short wires can actually make it more of a hatchet job to do solder & recover job instead of just the careful use of a tap connecter.  I don't know as I would have paid for dealer install of my hitch if it hadn't been part of the purchase deal on my 2015. After seeing the relative ease of installation, I would have tackled the job myself if the alternative was a couple hundred for a dealer install.

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  • 1 month later...

I bought a wiring kit that came with plugs & sockets matching the OEM tail light connectors  -  Unplug them at the tail lights and plug in the harness on both sides

http://www.ebay.com/itm/142100659515?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The instructions said to run a wire all the way to the battery for power, but I tapped into the rear accessory power plug on our SWM passenger van.  Soldered and taped the connection

Don

Edited by Beta Don
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