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cabmeister

Tow Hitch Lighting hook up

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I mentioned in an ealier post that I have had a hitch fitted by U-Haul and that I successfully completed my first time try out with my TC.

What I forgot to mention was that , with the electrics plugged in ,when you turn on either direction signals the bulbs start off flashing normal rate but like in an instant flash like crazy.Then they do not work .

Has anyone else who is towing had this problem . From what I can tell there is no plug in flasher unit ,it is run from a module . Any help would be most appreciated.

Thanks :: Keith

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Well the problem is current usage is "measured" by the GEM. It's sensing too much current draw. How to get around this ....... I'll have to work on that. Did you just splice into the tail light wiring? There's no trailer wiring in the factory service manual, figured that much though since they don't recommend trailer towing. You may have to run the trailer lights through relays to minimize the additional current draw on the turn signal circuit. I think that should work satisfactorily since the draw to energize the relay coil would be minimal.

Woody, your thoughts on that...........

Edited by ncranchero

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IF YOU TAPPED INTO THE EXISTING TAIL/BRAKE LIGHT WIRING WITH OUT A HARNESS KIT THE PROBLEM IS PROBABLY A BAD OR WEAK GROUND AT THE TRUCK OR TRAILER. I PURCHASED A CURT WIRING KIT THAT JUST CONNECTS BETWEEN THE PLUGS AND THE LIGHTS AND TUCKS NEATLY BEHIND THE LEFT TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY. THE KIT NEEDS A HOT WIRE DIRECTLY TO THE BATTERY WITH A FUSE AND A GROUND HOOK UP BEHIND THE TAIL LIGHT. I NEEDED TO EXTEND THE GREEN WIRE TO REACH THE RIGHT TAIL LIGHT CONNECTION, AND I KEEP THE TRAILER 4 PIN CONNECTOR IN THE TRUCK AND JUST PUT IT OUT BETWEEN THE BACK DOORS WHEN I NEED IT. THIS UNIT WORKS WELL AND THE DIRECT HOT LEAD POWER BOOSTER KEEPS THE LIGHTS FROM FADING. THE 'CONNECTOR BOX" IS NECESSARY TO CONVERT THE SEPERATE TAIL/BRAKE/SIGNAL LIGHTS TO THE DUAL SIGNAL/BRAKE LIGHT ON THE TRAILER. THERE IS NO FLASHER SPEED CHANGE AT ALL. HOPE THIS HELPS.

WOODY

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Nice that they make the adapter. I knew it would have to draw power from elsewhere to keep the flasher circuit working.

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Thanks gentlemen for your input

A Kurt 56090 Harness kit on its way as I type :happy feet:

Yes the U-Haul place did tap into the existing lights .

I am sure this will sort it out . Again thank you :: Keith

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I also used the Curt wiring loom kit and had no problems, either with parts or installation.

Richard

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Ready to order the Curt kit and have looked at the installation .pdf. Is there any reason I can't tap the 12V, fused, power supply already located in the rear of the van instead of running another stand-alone circuit from the battery? Thoughts? Thanks.

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Ready to order the Curt kit and have looked at the installation .pdf. Is there any reason I can't tap the 12V, fused, power supply already located in the rear of the van instead of running another stand-alone circuit from the battery? Thoughts? Thanks.

Thats right where I tapped into on mine... Plus, put in the fuse link there as well.

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I could not be more happy to read this. I have my Curt hitch and wiring package done - all except the power line to the battery which has intimidated me. (OK I'm waiting for the weather to cool down a bit, too). I've just saved at least an hour's foolin' with this.

Incidentally, is it as hard as it looks to access the positive side of the battery? Nice of them to tuck it in longways......!

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The Ford kit I got for my 2015 TC Wagon instructed you to make the connection, via a 15A inline fuse holder, at the bottom of F1 on the high current junction box mounted to the front of the battery box. My purchase deal included the dealer install of the accessory tow kit so I didn't have to do the work. That being said, I don't really understand why they do it that way unless it's just for universal application. The cargo area fuse block is right next to where they mount the tow wiring adapter and it already has the unused connection at F26 ready for the factory tow wiring. Granted the other side of the circuit isn't wired if you don't order the factory tow package, but it's a simple spade connection to tap the power for a fuse holder in this area. That's what I did to get power when I added my own accessory fuse box. Pix are in the thread I posted: http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/3912-added-my-own-accessory-fuse-box/

Here's a picture pointing out the F1 connection where my Ford kit gets it's power.

post-5019-0-43602100-1443561363_thumb.jp

Edited by DonShockley

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Don, thank you for all of your electrical advice. I successfully finished the wiring of my Curt adapter using the passenger side rear fuse block.

Well, I'm off to read all the other Shockley wiring posts on the strength of my performance tonight....!

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On 10/5/2010 at 6:54 PM, cabmeister said:

I mentioned in an ealier post that I have had a hitch fitted by U-Haul and that I successfully completed my first time try out with my TC.

What I forgot to mention was that , with the electrics plugged in ,when you turn on either direction signals the bulbs start off flashing normal rate but like in an instant flash like crazy.Then they do not work .

Has anyone else who is towing had this problem . From what I can tell there is no plug in flasher unit ,it is run from a module . Any help would be most appreciated.

Thanks :: Keith

I just got a 2016 LWB wagon with a factory installed tow package (yes it is listed on the window sticker) and it does this exact same thing.  At first I thought there was a fault in my trailer, but after trying different tests found that it does not matter what is plugged in.  I plan to look it over when I have some time and see if there are any obvious wiring problems before trying the warranty option.

It is puzzling that this thread was started in 2010 and the problem has surfaced on a 2016 unit.  Maybe not a design fault or defect, but just a mistake in factory installation ?  Like a bad ground or something ?

 

 

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OK Got to see the replies now......disregard

Edited by Michael J
did not see the replies originally........

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MLB    1
On 12/10/2016 at 1:27 PM, Data said:

I just got a 2016 LWB wagon with a factory installed tow package (yes it is listed on the window sticker) and it does this exact same thing.  At first I thought there was a fault in my trailer, but after trying different tests found that it does not matter what is plugged in.  I plan to look it over when I have some time and see if there are any obvious wiring problems before trying the warranty option.

It is puzzling that this thread was started in 2010 and the problem has surfaced on a 2016 unit.  Maybe not a design fault or defect, but just a mistake in factory installation ?  Like a bad ground or something ?

 

 

There's no puzzle, they wired it incorrectly. 

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On 10/5/2010 at 7:23 PM, JWWOODY said:

IF YOU TAPPED INTO THE EXISTING TAIL/BRAKE LIGHT WIRING WITH OUT A HARNESS KIT THE PROBLEM IS PROBABLY A BAD OR WEAK GROUND AT THE TRUCK OR TRAILER.

Nope  -  That's not the proble,

I PURCHASED A CURT WIRING KIT THAT JUST CONNECTS BETWEEN THE PLUGS AND THE LIGHTS AND TUCKS NEATLY BEHIND THE LEFT TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY. THE KIT NEEDS A HOT WIRE DIRECTLY TO THE BATTERY WITH A FUSE AND A GROUND HOOK UP BEHIND THE TAIL LIGHT. 

On computer controlled vehicles, you need that +12 volt wire because that's what provides power for the trailer lights  -  The little box js just a switch box . . . . it sends the 12 volt power to the trailer when the car's turn signals are activated.  The cars tail light wires cannot be used to power the trailer lights directly, good ground or no ground

Don

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